blairman Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Looking for recent information on current conditions on the route and the approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 SNOW ON THE APPRAOCH PROLLY A LITTLE PATCH ON TOP MIGHT MAKE SOME KEY POINTS WET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 I ran in to a couple of climbers comming off the route last weekend and they said it was relativly strait forward. They climbed in crampons but "mostly because they wanted to". From SEWS it looked to have snow on ledges and the chimeny appeared to still have snow in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 That was Steve House doing the Beckey Route in crampons on Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 Isn't the Becky Route in Frenchman's Coulee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 The beckey route is at every crag and on every mountain in the cascades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Did this today. IN fine shape. Approach is fast and entirely over well tracked snow. chimney has a bit of snow/ice but I excavated a few holds and it was easy after that. should be no problem. only other snow is on ledges and is easily avoidable. Go for it now! No bugs and no people! When else can you do a route like that midday on a sunday and say that?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Sabertooth said: That was Steve House doing the Beckey Route in crampons on Saturday. You are correct it was steve house... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Alasdair said: Sabertooth said: That was Steve House doing the Beckey Route in crampons on Saturday. You are correct it was steve house... uh ma gaw!! STEVE MOTHER FUCKING HOUSE!!! who cares if it was baby jesus! just another climber out having fun, i think who it was is iirelevant? if y'all see me you gonna get all excited and shit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 erik said: Alasdair said: Sabertooth said: That was Steve House doing the Beckey Route in crampons on Saturday. You are correct it was steve house... uh ma gaw!! STEVE MOTHER FUCKING HOUSE!!! who cares if it was baby jesus! just another climber out having fun, i think who it was is iirelevant? if y'all see me you gonna get all excited and shit? Exactly! That is why I did not feel the need to state that in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 While many here espouse a disdain for media personalities, lots of folks care who it is that they meet and they are justifiably more excited to run into Steve House or Fred Beckey or even Dan - on the trail than they would be to meet some unknown climber -- because these are people they have been reading about and thinking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 So if anybody here actually knows Steve, ask him if it was him that climbed the rather sick looking lines on the north side of concord tower, leading up from the concord/liberty bell notch. I was noticing them from up on liberty bell. Looked rather difficult to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 The NW Corner route (N. Early Winter) is not in as the crack is full of snow. The west face still had snow on the slabs above the 10A crack. SE Winter coulior was in as is the S. Arete although the 5.4 gully pitch was full of ice which made it a bit harder to bypass (5.7?). The slab pitch with the bolt was snowed over so you could walk across it. Beckey route as mentioned was in with the additional challenge of stemming around ice and snow patches on the route. Concord Tower - The standard route on Concord is still a mixed affair (5.7 M420). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 How come there are no Beckey routes at Smith Rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 (edited) Do you mean the N. Face and/or cave routes? Or are we talking ice at this time of year? Never mind, I just saw RobertM's post. Edited May 12, 2003 by Norman_Clyde Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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