to crowd or not to crowd

[Lambone]

quote:

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Originally posted by willstrickland:

Easy there Mtngorilla,Europeans are notorious for invading your belay, and no I don't own the route or the rock, but I also don't want you and your two buddies trying to share a 2ft x 2ft platform with me and clippping an extra 700lb to the anchor while I'm trying to belay and encourage my partner.

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Exactly, I didn't have any problem whats so-ever with the team of five behind us(who happened to have Korean flags sewn to their coats)...until they decided that they were going to share Camp 6 with us at ten o'clock at night. They turned our anchor into a total nightmare, and took three hours to set up their camp. That was just uncalled for when a spacious Camp 5 was only a couple of pitches below us. But as I said, the offered us some Marboro Lights, and we smoked and made the best of it.

I just thought it was funny that one guy had to haul the entire route, while one guy just jugged lines and ordered every one else around. The shouting matches that ensued many times throughout the day were anoying (even from far above) but what else can you do but have a laugh about it?

[ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Lambone]

P.S.- As for the team that left a bag-o-shit tied to the belay for us, and the one that stole our much needed supplies out of our tent...Fuck Them. In my opinion hey are a disgrace to the global climbing comunity.

[ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Cpt.Caveman]

a bag o what ? Oh a bag of Lambone

[Wopper]

Schlongslurper - Now that's funny

[mtngrrrl]

I did not attribute the lovely stories to anyone in particular. We all saw who wrote them.

The point being made, and has been clearly made by many, is that there are plenty of rude Americans, climbing here and abroad. Why call attention to non-Americans for their rudeness, then brag about about how you pissed in their tents? Sure, I would be freaked about someone clipping my pro as well. Sharing an anchor, not so much. My question remains, have neither of you two ever run into rude Americans? (Highly rhetorical here.)

I wonder what Americans are notorious for?

blah blah blah. wah wah wah. spew spew spew.

[chuckie]

Thanks Lbone, now I don't feel so bad about dumping the piss jug on a Spanish team on the Prow

[fredrogers]

Sorry to get back to the original topic of the thread, but I don't have any stories about dropping bio-waste on anyone. Yet. But I'm waiting for the right team of snotty Frenchies and I'll give 'em the ol' American mud falcon one-two...

I don't have an issue with soloists other than their decision to solo (more importantly the possible consequences of them falling) do put some responsibility on other people climbing in the area. Some soloist falls and goes boom, you should feel obligated to help them- or at least I do- just like if any other climber hurt themselves.

The reality of a solo fall is a lot grimmer than a roped one- especially if they hit you on the way down...I don't know if any of you have had to deal with some one who has died by violent trauma, but it isn't pretty. I've only seen it once and it was non-climbing related but it makes me want to hurl when I think of it.

[epb]

That is by far the best argument I have heard against soloing..."cause it will be too much of a mess for other climbers to clean up." Amazing.

Man you don't need to go and help a soloist when he falls. Cause he isn't going to need it. He will be meat waffles. Just let the vultures do the cleaning up. I wouldn't expect anyone to pick up the my pieces. Just let them dry out and decompose in peace.

By the way, does anyone have a figure on the amount deaths of climbers while soloing? Is it even high?

[schlangeschmecker]

Personally I haf nefer heard of somebody vhile kliming ropeless to die. I tink dass FALLING down ze mountain vhile ropeless ist more deadly. Ha ha. Ha ha ha ha ha. Ya, und RURP, you don't like mein Deutsch? Schade! Vielleicht sollen Sie doch Ihren Kopf aus Arschkirsche ziehen.

[Lambone]

Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!?

--was it Derek Hersey????

[ 12-12-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[allthumbs]

what about that dude on pilchuck last year? solo death.

[chuckie]

there was also a guy on Monkey Face a few years ago

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by Lambone:

Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!?

--was it Derek Hersey????

---

Yeah, that was Derek, dude was in the league of Croft/Potter/Bachar soloing, put up "To Rp or not to Be" in Eldo, which is still unrepeated to the best of my knowledge...5.12X. Derek was a Brit expat, and everyone knows the Brits push trad climbing standards...even so, he tried to get quite a few visiting countrymen to give it a shot but they all declined...that might give you an indication of the seriousness of that climb...that and the fact that it's right outside Boudler, home of tons of hardmen and women and it's unrepeated, only American hope I can see repeating it is the Tim Kemple/Peter Vintoniv partnership.

But it's Verm in that pic as far as I know, route called Ring of the Lords or something, I haven't seen that picture in long time.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Lambone:

Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!?

--was it Derek Hersey????

[ 12-12-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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i laff so hard when i see dis. derek hersey was a 5.11 soloist. that 5.13 beer solo pic is john sherman and he is clipped off to a bolt, you can see the sling hidden behind his arm.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

i laff so hard when i see dis. derek hersey was a 5.11 soloist. that 5.13 beer solo pic is john sherman and he is clipped off to a bolt, you can see the sling hidden behind his arm.

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It's a good print. I got it on my office door next to me

[Lambone]

Oh...well, whatever...

[Dru]

When Derek Hersey was in Britain he had to get rescued 4 x in a row off Edge Lane, a mid-5.11 (E4 6a) he was trying to solo. The rescue team finally said - If we have to come back here again for you we'll break both your fucking legs.

It was only when he moved to Colorado that he turned into some sort of hardman.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by plexus:

Hey epb...

Have ya done anything in the Cheam Range? Is the rock as crappy as they say?

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The rock in general is kinda choss but the snow and ice are good.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

When Derek Hersey was in Britain he had to get rescued 4 x in a row off Edge Lane, a mid-5.11 (E4 6a) he was trying to solo. The rescue team finally said - If we have to come back here again for you we'll break both your fucking legs.

It was only when he moved to Colorado that he turned into some sort of hardman.

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Crusty will solo it too http://www.ukclimbing.com/caff/forums/t.php?t=8825&new=118164#118164

[willstrickland]

That's funny stuff, you'd think the guy would learn after the second or third time..but how do you get rescued soloing? There a ledge on the route or something?

Word is that while living in CO he went to the Diamond, on-sight soloed some 5.10 line, downclimed another 5.10 line, and soloed yet another (harder)line before calling it a day and fetching the Sheaf Stout stashed at the base. That's pretty impressive considering the altitude, and even the sheer amount of ground covered. Too bad really, hopefully Dean doesn't meet the same fate. It's an addiction, and that's the biggest reason I don't solo often...that and my small nads.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by willstrickland:

That's funny stuff, you'd think the guy would learn after the second or third time..but how do you get rescued soloing? There a ledge on the route or something?

Word is that while living in CO he went to the Diamond, on-sight soloed some 5.10 line, downclimed another 5.10 line, and soloed yet another (harder)line before calling it a day and fetching the Sheaf Stout stashed at the base. That's pretty impressive considering the altitude, and even the sheer amount of ground covered. Too bad really, hopefully Dean doesn't meet the same fate. It's an addiction, and that's the biggest reason I don't solo often...that and my small nads.

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As I understand it it is a slabby arete with no gear and the rescue consisted of someone walking to the top and chucking down a rope for him to grab while he stood on some little foothold and moaned.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

As I understand it it is a slabby arete with no gear and the rescue consisted of someone walking to the top and chucking down a rope for him to grab while he stood on some little foothold and moaned.

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I bet you would moan too.

[JayB]

"And even if they're not true, you can't say Americans don't get shit-on generalizations too. I say it's a rough world, buck up! If you can't handle some lip from somebody, you're probably not cut out to be a world traveler/climber. The idea of being able to climb el cap and not being able to handle being labeled/generalized/sterotyped is silly!"

Word.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I bet you would moan too.

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I only moan when there are tulips on my organ!

[David_Parker]

Yeah, I have some generalizations about Americans. They are shitty drivers and consume way too much of the world's resources! Maybe this should be a new thread!