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Concern for the Group


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eric8 said:

Speed counts in this case because the climb is beneath seracs the whole time. Twight soloed it in 2hrs and Bebie belayed every pitch with a party of three.


i am not sure the comparison is valid. Mark and partners were caught (triggered?) by a slide during a period of extreme avy hazard while twight soloed it a different year. how does exposure to potential serac falling on the route compare with soloing extensive crevasse fields?

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fleblebleb said:

Try this on for size; the amount of stuff you carry on the approach doesn't have to have anything to do with how you do the climb. hellno3d.gifhellno3d.gifhellno3d.gif Carrying bivi gear to the base, sleeping, then blitzing without a pack, that's perfect style. There is no sensible motivation to do otherwise... other than showing up for work of course. Should the need to show up for work dictate what's good climbing style, or not?


As for the Colchuck area snow and ice climbs, the best, safest, most respectable way to go is clearly to camp at the lake and climb fully rested at the ideal time of the day.

hellno3d.gifhellno3d.gifhellno3d.gifwazzup.gifyou'll get way less tired carying a light pack and cut the total trip time.

please don't get too concerned about MY climbing. wtf is this all about??? what it boils down is taking peronal responsibility for actions and the consequences.


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Hey headbutt, I don't care how you climb. I hear you climb pretty burly though, and fast. It's all good to me. We're just having a fun little argument about style, no biggie.


By the way, I think I met you on the way to Stuart Lake once, you guys were going to bivi and climb Stuart Glacier Couloir in the morning. You had a pretty fat pack there if I remember correctly. Possibly fatter than anything I have ever carried into the Cascades, excepting my 5 day Pickets trip. But, I'd prefer to climb that route the same way, with a bivi by the lake.


The point I was trying to make is that how you approach doesn't have to affect your climbing style. If you have the time to do so, then do the approach, bivi, get perfect timing for starting the route, and climb it with the least weight you can get away with (personal responsibility...). When the climb is done, pick up your bivi gear and go home.


Anyways. I did a route couch-to-couch yesterday and I'm pretty hammered today - really feeling the lack of sleep. Which one is better, a light pack on the trail but lack of sleep, or heavier on the approach but fully rested after a comfortable bivi?

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  • 2 years later...
the best way to climb

and safest

isto drop acidandfreesolo

aboveaherd of mtneers in training mushsmile.gifmushsmile.gif


I am going to spin this kernel of wisdom into a best-selling self help book for climbers. I will call it "The Mushroom Warrior's Way" and mix a little Gurdjieff, Castaneda, Eric Horst and Stevie Haston into the mix. Sales should be phenomenal. Pre-order a copy now!



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