tsk_tsk_tsk Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 I'm looking at bolting a route at an area that is already somewhat developed. I've done a little research on gear and drills but, what I'm trying to determine is what's the smallest drill I can get away with buying that is going to go the distance when drilling routes in basalt. So all you experienced bolters out there, what's the scoop? Everyone I've talked with so far is quick to assume I make $100,000/yr. and can afford a new Bosch Annihilator at $600. Not true. I have to find something less expensive. Help me out if you can, and save the "just climb trad" comments for the next guy. Quote
erik Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 find a used bosch bulldog on the internet pretty much need a roto hammer at 24v to do the job correctly. Quote
rr666 Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Vantage does NOT need any more bolts.... aaarghh grid bolting is bad... Ok, the best thing is a hammer and hand drill!!! It will make you appreciate each and every bolt you put in, so you will not put too many in. Plus it will keep you in shape I can just feel the wave of bolt vs. no-bolt arguments coming... be prepared, and always remember do NOT bolt cracks, or other features that can accept natural protection. Do that, and not too many people on here will get pissed off at you. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 rr666 said: Vantage does NOT need any more bolts.... aaarghh grid bolting is bad... Ok, the best thing is a hammer and hand drill!!! It will make you appreciate each and every bolt you put in, so you will not put too many in. Plus it will keep you in shape I can just feel the wave of bolt vs. no-bolt arguments coming... be prepared, and always remember do NOT bolt cracks, or other features that can accept natural protection. Do that, and not too many people on here will get pissed off at you. if all those vantage gridbolters used a hand drill they would still be bolting the feathers....... Tsk Tsk Tsk- How much do you want to spend on used bulldog...my friend has one Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Thinker said: relax, It's NOT Vantage. It's not even in Washington state. WTF, thinker, i don't care if you bolt the fuk outa the channeled scablands..i was only making a lame joke. AND seriously, I do have a friend with a used bulldog...how much are you willing to spend...its got lots of neat attachments and a case. although drilling into basalt a gaspowered drill works best...just fuks the environment a little edit- where did your post go thinker?!?!?! Quote
Thinker Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Welcome to the world of multiple Avatars! I obviously don't play this game well. I posted the question for a bud of mine who lives in Idaho and I wanted to avoid the razzing for the bolting....and there it is! So FUCK...bring it on. I'll find out if he's interested in your friends used drill I'm assuming the route is somewhere around Idaho Falls, certainly not your beloved Vantage. Quote
MysticNacho Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 REAL men hang from hooks and hand drill bolts, in the rain. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Thinker said: Welcome to the world of multiple Avatars! I obviously don't play this game well. I posted the question for a bud of mine who lives in Idaho and I wanted to avoid the razzing for the bolting....and there it is! So FUCK...bring it on. I'll find out if he's interested in your friends used drill I'm assuming the route is somewhere around Idaho Falls, certainly not your beloved Vantage. bleimy you fukin wanker.... Vantage is not my beloved... I will PM you aboot the drill soon....ok...OK Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 MysticNacho said: REAL men hang from hooks and hand drill bolts, in the rain. how many times you done that real man Quote
Thinker Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 I was actually hoping DFA would throw in his 2cents here. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 DFA actually hasn't done any serious bolting. Replaced a few back in the day with a homemade hand drill, but holes in basalt took anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half. Bolters DFA has seen or known favored the Bosch Bulldog, a Ryobi gas-powered beast that sounded like a chainsaw, and some Hilti monster. You really ought to post this query on smithrock.com, as Ryan Lawson has got beaucoup drilling beta. He might even have his bolt-guns up for sale, as he had mentioned such a while back. Here's to more bolts everywhere! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Here's to more bolts everywhere! crack-whimp. Quote
lummox Posted April 12, 2003 Posted April 12, 2003 tsk_tsk_tsk said: I'm looking at bolting a route at an area that is already somewhat developed. I've done a little research on gear and drills but, what I'm trying to determine is what's the smallest drill I can get away with buying that is going to go the distance when drilling routes in basalt. So all you experienced bolters out there, what's the scoop? Everyone I've talked with so far is quick to assume I make $100,000/yr. and can afford a new Bosch Annihilator at $600. Not true. I have to find something less expensive. Help me out if you can, and save the "just climb trad" comments for the next guy. fucking hurricane hand driller will work. it takes a little practice to get a good hole. cost is about 100 bucks. Quote
A7U Posted April 12, 2003 Posted April 12, 2003 I'm a construction manager. Recently saw a demo of a 24v bushing hammer (reciprocating hammer). Bits include a carbide-edged spade option. Prolly would cut through a bolt in 30 seconds. Not on the market yet, but could be a great force multiplier for the anti-bolters. Quote
Montana_Climber Posted April 12, 2003 Posted April 12, 2003 hurricane hand driller will work. it takes a little practice to get a good hole. cost is about 100 bucks. Excellent choice for a hand drill. I think I was reading about a set up or maybe Alex Lowe was telling me about it but at any rate he used a Black and Decker 18 V portable, regular drill, for bolting Hyalite Canyon. He had a system where he made about a 50 ft cord to the batteries that his belayer had his hands on. The belay slave could then change the batteries for him at a rate of about 1 battery per every 2-3 bolts. He also modified the battery pack so that it wasn't your standard rechargeable battery. He upped the storage capacity so that he had a very powerful battery throughout most of the time he was drilling rather than a slow leak of power throughout the discharge. I'll see if I can dig up some more information about it. Quote
lummox Posted April 12, 2003 Posted April 12, 2003 Montana_Climber said: hurricane hand driller will work. it takes a little practice to get a good hole. cost is about 100 bucks. Excellent choice for a hand drill. I think I was reading about a set up or maybe Alex Lowe was telling me about it but at any rate he used a Black and Decker 18 V portable, regular drill, for bolting Hyalite Canyon. He had a system where he made about a 50 ft cord to the batteries that his belayer had his hands on. The belay slave could then change the batteries for him at a rate of about 1 battery per every 2-3 bolts. He also modified the battery pack so that it wasn't your standard rechargeable battery. He upped the storage capacity so that he had a very powerful battery throughout most of the time he was drilling rather than a slow leak of power throughout the discharge. I'll see if I can dig up some more information about it. i've rigged a couple truck batteries to a bosch bulldog, but the amperage sucked. the rpms were too low to do much. then the acid from the batteries totally screwed my pack and a couple stuff sacks. Quote
Montana_Climber Posted April 14, 2003 Posted April 14, 2003 Here is the best I could do on a drill setup. I emailed someone who used to bolt stuff with Alex in Hyalite. Following is the email response that I got: "He used a battery pack which was external to the drill, and was worn in a fanny pack. It was rigged with wires that ran up to the drill itself. The battery pack wa a standard voltage ( 18 V, I think ? ) that the drill uses, but the batteries were rigged in parallel, so they lassted longer. The wires weren't long enough to leave the battery on the ground- the resistance would have been too high - but only long enough to reach from fanny- pack to extended arm. *** The idea there was that it was easier to reach high and place a bolt high if the drill weighed less- a heavy drill ( onee with a bunch of batteries ) would be tiring to get as high. The second advantage was that you could get a ton of holes without recharging , even in the cold. I think we got around twenty, what with aid bolts + belay bolts + descent. I think he had a Bosch, but maybe a Hilti. In my limited drilling experience I would recommend one of those; skip the Ryobi, I have used one and I think it sucks. Less expensive alternative to one of the cordless power drills- yeah, pass this on!!: Pika makes an excellent hand drill - inexpensive, light, and the batteries never need recharging! Thanks for your updates to the Montana Ice website this winter- your contributions were accurate and concise, which is what makes the website really work for all of us! Jim Earl jimurl@montanaice.com http://www.montanaice.com Montana's Online Ice Climbing Guidebook " Quote
jordop Posted April 14, 2003 Posted April 14, 2003 Petzl Rocpecker -- anything else is rape Like a knife through butter in limestone http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=337331&FOLDER<>folder_id=579083&bmUID=1050361193326 Quote
DCramer Posted April 15, 2003 Posted April 15, 2003 The Bosch is a 24v unit. It is very cheap to buy two 12v batteries and wire them in series and greatly improve the performance of the Bulldog. These batteries last a season and for the price work pretty well. Quote
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