skyclimb Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 student wall and the reproductive Wall. I am wondering if this area is all trad, or if routes are bolted?? Also other areas around the monument and upstream that are good bolted routes. Watts book is becoming outdated in some regards, so curious as to the bolting/sport situation in these LESS FREQUENTED areas of smith. Quote
erik Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 CANT CLIMB AROUND THE MONUMENT CUZ OF BIRDIES RIGHT NOW. THERE ARE SOOOOOOOOO MANY NEW BOLTED ROUTES AT SMITH...MOST DECENT STONE IS NOW GRIDED.... MOST OF THE GORGE ROUTES HAVE BEEN SPARRED FROM THE BOSCH!!! Quote
TimL Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Bird closures might be affecting parts of those areas. You might check at Smith Rock.com or the parking lot kiosk will have bird closure info. Last couple weekends we climbed around Moons of Pluto and Split Image area. Nobody there and there are some good routes. Quote
TimL Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 One route that comes to mind is "Hemp Liberation". Sound familiar E? Quote
b-rock Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 I don't think student and reproductive wall are closed, just TFJ and the stuff further from the river. At least it isn't well marked like the rest of the closure area. Anyways saw a bunch of people climbing there a couple weekends ago. Mostly trad but I think easy to top rope. Quote
sketchfest Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Most stuff over at S.W. is trad or top rope, but like E said there has been a ton of bolting in recent years, so it could be either. Quote
slothrop Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 There's a fun 3-pitch bolted route on Koala Rock. The upper two pitches (5.10a) are Thin Air and you start with Suck My Kiss (5.9) or the first pitch crack of Thin Air if you want to bring gear. The route has great position and feels almost alpine when the cold wind is blowing. I think there's some good bolted stuff over by Brogan Spire, too. Well worth the short hike. Quote
erik Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 rbw1966 said: I thought Thin Air was 5.9. I THOGHT IT WAS 5.8... SERIOUSLY Quote
rbw1966 Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 I lead all three pitches so I'm thinking its definitely not .10a Quote
Geek_the_Greek Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Whatever. The "new stuff at smith" book says it's .10a, but it's referring to the new bolted line which goes 9, 10a, 10a, as I recall. We (Sloth and I, that is) didn't bring a rack because we were starting at 2:30 and were in a hurry to get back by 6 to bring back my demo shoes. So we resorted to Suck my kiss (5.9) for the first pitch. All in all, really good fun. Quote
slothrop Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 (edited) Watts is talking about the first crack pitch, which looks not too hard, but I haven't climbed it. If Watts says 5.9, it's probably 5.8 to Index hardman Erik. The lil' red book sez the upper two pitches are 10a, but there are really only two hard moves: getting over the bulge to start pitch three and getting up another bulge halfway into the second pitch. You've got a bolt in your face both times. Whatever. It's fun, go do it. Ya beat me to it, Geek. Edited April 4, 2003 by slothrop Quote
erik Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 THE NEW STUFF BOOK HAS OVER GRADED ALOT OF ROUTES... WATTS IS THE MAN!! AND THOSE PITCHES MAYBE HAVE LIKE ONE BOLDERY MOVE....AND NOT .10... BUT WHO CARES WE ALL HAD FUN CLIMBING IT!!! Quote
Dru Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 the little red book says the 5.8 next to Teddy Bears Picnic is 10a too...... Quote
erik Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 SLOTHY NOT A HARD MAN... I AM JUST LUCKY TO GET OUT... AND I WAS BEING FACIOUS AT FIRST!! SHEESH!!! Quote
b-rock Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Ya, lots of fun looking climbs over there, few people. Quote
slothrop Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 You da man, erik Anyone done the Marsupials traverse? Looks fun... Quote
Distel32 Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 I hear about some new area down at smith that has a few really hard climbs and supposedly no one there, I think it's called the dihedrals, kind of near some place called morning glory???? anyone heard of these!!? Quote
fern Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 the marsupials traverse is a nice hike. we linked it with that 'wherever I may roam' for a good day. Quote
Dru Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 yeah moresoupial mountaineering rox its fully alpine up there you might even see a snafflehound somewhere Quote
skyclimb Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 erik said: CANT CLIMB AROUND THE MONUMENT CUZ OF BIRDIES RIGHT NOW. THERE ARE SOOOOOOOOO MANY NEW BOLTED ROUTES AT SMITH...MOST DECENT STONE IS NOW GRIDED.... MOST OF THE GORGE ROUTES HAVE BEEN SPARRED FROM THE BOSCH!!! So what is the deal on the bolting and the bird situation on the west side wall. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 I hear the bandcamp girls are playing at exit 38 this weekend. Quote
erik Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 BIRDS MATING...CANT DISTURB THEM SO THE MONUMENT AND THREE FINGER JACK IS CLOSED. WALK AROUND AND LOOK...THERE ARE NEW BOLTS EVERYWHERE...GUESS THEY WERE FILLIN IN THE BLANKS! WHAT DO YOU WANT TO KNOW?? Quote
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