lesser travelled WA Pass routes?

[geordie]

As highway 20 will open soon I'm getting excited about WA pass. Anyone have favorite moderates at WA pass that seem to have been overlooked by Nelson or badmouthed by Fred?

 

[specialed]

Clean Break. Though its not really on the pass. . East But of South Early - though there's only three pitches of good climbing on it. But there's not more than three pitches of good climbing on any route on the pass!

[dberdinka]

North Ridge of Cutthroat Peak is a very rarely traveled climb on generally excellent granite. It is a far better climb than the filthy and uninteresting South buttress.

 

If the ridge crest is followed exactly you'll get to climb low angle dihedrals, OWs and finger cracks. Fun, fun, fun. Only drawback is a couple pitches of choss getting onto the ridge proper. But hey, it's the mountains so deal.

 

The structure of the ridge and the climbing is somewhat reminisent of the west ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugs.

 

Before I get slayed I said SOMEWHAT!

 

Standard route on Chabilis Spire is an excellent 3 pitch climb on solid white granite. Killer summit too.

 

SW ridge of S Early is in Nelson's second book but isn't nearly as crowded as other climbs in the area. Definitely the best moderate climb in the group.

 

East Face of the Minute Man is an awesome adventure. Goes at 5.8 with a few points of aid. Probably could be done 5.8 A0. 2nd to last pitch is best (well 2nd best) hand crack in the area.

 

NE ridge of Black is a blast too. Go late in season when the lakes are real pretty.

[goatboy]

Ditto E Face Minuteman, though there is a very loose and unenjoyable pitch right below the great roof/handcrack pitch.

 

E Butt SEWS also great.

 

Burgundy Spire is great and not crowded, usually.

 

I enjoyed climbing "The Archer" on Black Horse Point. Check it out in Burdo's "North Cascade Rock" guidebook.

 

Did not do "Pampas Drifter" on same formation, though it looked harder and longer.

 

There are good routes to do on Kangaroo Temple as well, though frequently used by the Mounties...

 

I also like the Cave route on Concord and "Rapple Grapple" on Liberty Bell.

 

The North Face of Lexington is easy but fun.

 

Noticed some variations around NW Face of Libert Bell, don't know what they were or who did them, but there was fixed gear and I believe I saw some bolts as well . . .

 

There's so much good stuff up there!

 

 

[Cliff_Tout]

I second the votes for SW Butt of SEWS and for Rapple Grapple (surprised this route isn't more popular).

 

Anyone climb the routes on LB around the corner - N/NW?

 

[goatboy]

I climbed NW Face of Libert Bell (the Kraus/Rupley route) and enjoyed it as it was something different, but one of the middle pitches (I think it was pitch 3 or so) was fairly grim, 5.8 on super loose rock. It takes you up to the base of the final pitch, a stellar 165-foot long dihedral on good rock.

 

This dihedral was clearly the highlight of the route.

 

There are other variations on this route as well that I did not do.

[Stefan]

Half Moon. For some reason it is not that popular. I don't know the quality of rock.

[klenke]

Half Moon (the high point above the snow patches) in early September:

Taken from Kangaroo Temple notch to the south.

[bobbyperu]

whattup geordie... as of tuesday, the early winters cooler (east) is in good shape, as others have said recently, east facing climbs are good to go early a.m. or like it is now, with fatty moonlight, seriously, if you like this type of climbing, this route is awesome!!! and tho theres no mention of it in beckeys guide, finishing up on s. face,n. spire is rad in current conditions... enjoy

[geordie]

A while back DPS described that route as 5.8, A2, WI3. He used an asst. of pins, screws, cams and nuts. Would that be close to the route you climbed recently?

 

(Now that we're on Code Yellow I can go climbing...)

[bobbyperu]

uhhh, sure. i kinda prefer the way its described in beckeys guide though, as difficulty ratings are pretty subjective, and change constantly with this type of climb.

i'd rate it fun plus, and a good adventure, take a look see, and bring whatever YOU feel you may want. have fun... cheers -bobbyp

[Jason_Martin]

Last year I had the opportunity to climb a rather fun early season objective in Washington Pass, the left Couloir on Whistler Mountain. Lots of people climb the right couloir in late season and find it to be pretty easy... The left, however, is a bit more challenging. We found snow climbing up to seventy degrees and a lot of mixed snow and rock climbing.

 

After completing the route I wrote up a route description on it for the guide service I work for. I've cut and pasted this report below. I think it's a route worth checking out.

 

Jason

 

______________________________________________

 

From the Liberty Bell Massif one often tends to look across Highway 20 and to dream about future ascents. The area offers a great view of Cutthroat Peak, an often-climbed objective, but what of the peaks around Cutthroat?

 

On the ridgeline to the left there is one minor peak, then the ridge continues to Whistler Mountain. Here lies a peak with a very engaging profile. Just right of center, the mountain has two large couloirs which blast up from nearly the same elevation as Highway 20. The left couloir is far steeper and a worthy objective. The right couloir, though not as steep presents extreme difficulties toward the top of the climb in early season. Because of the difficulties found on the right couloir it is not recommended as a route.

 

Little is known about the history of these couloirs. They’ve certainly seen numerous ascents. In Fred Becky’s Volume Three of the Cascade Alpine Guide, information on the route barely even fills a paragraph.

 

"A winter climb via the E. Couloir to the N. Ridge, then seven pitches on the ridge, was done by Steve Costie, Richard Filley, and Dave Lord in February 1977."

 

The result of this lack of information is that Whistler Mountain is seldom climbed. It is even more seldom climbed by these elusive and steep couloirs.

 

Season:

 

This is a snow and ice climb with a bit of rock thrown in for good measure. Generally speaking the route will be completely out of condition by the first of July usually earlier, but a heavy snow year with a cool spring could provide solid climbing for a longer period. A good measure as to whether or not the route will be in condition is to check out the conditions in the Southwest Couloir of South Early Winter Spire. If this route is in decent condition, so then too will the route be on Whistler Peak.

 

Gear and Equipment:

 

Depending on route conditions gear may be quite varied. If it is warm and the snow is slightly soft the route is still doable. In these conditions an ice axe and enough pickets and flukes to pitch out sections or to simul-climb is acceptable. However, if it is cold and the route frozen, one may require full ice climbing regalia including two tools and ice screws. A small rock rack is a must in all conditions.

 

Approach:

 

Park at a paved pullout roughly even with the base of the route. Descend to the creek and find some means to cross it. Ascend easy slopes to the base of the twin couloirs. The left couloir is one’s objective. Assess avalanche conditions before continuing.

 

Route:

 

This route can be broken into three sections. The first section is the Lower Couloir, the second section is the Upper Couloir, and the third section is the North Ridge. The following description will use these names to identify the different aspects of the route.

 

The Lower Couloir:

 

Ascend the obvious couloir. Difficulties in this section may include snow or ice climbing up to forty degrees. The vast majority of this lower section however does not exceed thirty-five degrees. Eventually the couloir will begin to move to the right. Ascend towards the ridgeline. It looks as if it is flat above… It isn’t. Exit the couloir and climb to an obvious rock toe on the ridge. From this vantage one should be able to look down into the right couloir. Above and to the right is the Upper Couloir.

 

The Upper Couloir:

 

From the ridgeline at the rock toe, the difficulties increase.

 

Traverse on steep snow into the upper couloir from the rock toe. By no means should one traverse far enough so that they are in the right couloir. Continue up the left couloir on gradually steepening snow. One can expect to find snow or ice reaching sixty degrees in this portion of the climb.

 

When I climbed this route in June of 2002, we found an interesting steep variation about halfway up the Upper Couloir. A natural belay existed in a moat on the left-hand side of the couloir. Here we discovered an excellent place to take a break and a steep snow pencil that shot up between the islands of rock. This snow pencil included mixed snow and rock climbing with difficulties up seventy degrees. Above the snow pencil one had to climb fourth class rock to a second nice low angle belay on rock. From here one may traverse back out into the primary couloir.

 

Climb the remainder of the upper couloir to a cornice on the North Ridge. In June of 2002 this was easily bypassed on the left side. However, if the cornice is a serious problem, there is the small possibility of bypassing it on the right side after a bit of rock climbing. The left side provides a small tree on the ridge, which one may use as protection or as a belay.

 

The North Ridge:

 

In many ways this last section of the climb may provide the crux. Though the rock climbing is easy (forth class and low fifth) there is at least one if not two mandatory traverses on steep snow or ice. Expect to spend some time on this portion of the route.

 

Climb the North Ridge toward the summit. The rock protection here is not great, so build anchors when protection is available. Approximately halfway up the ridge is the mandatory snow traverse. Protect this well, as it is at least seventy degrees on the eighty-foot traverse. On the right side of the traverse, rock protection may be available to build a belay. Beware of loose rocks.

 

From here, one may be able to climb to the false summit in one long pitch or two shorter pitches on mixed snow and rock. From the false summit it is an easy scramble to the true summit of the mountain.

 

Alternately, there is a second rightward snow traverse, which will bring one to the West Side of the mountain and into an easy snow gully. The snow gully and a little third class climbing will provide the team with the summit.

 

Descent:

 

After such a route, an easy descent is the best thing one can find. Down-climb third class rock to the West and attain the snow gully. This gully drops down to the West and Southwest toward Highway Twenty. One can see Rainy Lake for the vast majority of the descent. Beware of moats and streams running beneath the snow on the descent.

 

Eventually one will emerge either onto Highway Twenty or in the Pacific Crest Trail Rainy Pass Parking Lot. This is at least three if not four miles from the car, so expect to hitchhike or hike back to the car at the end of the day.

 

[bobbyperu]

yeah, what he said... tru tru these couloirs are fun, and they both looked good earlier this week... the right hand coulior makes for fun skiing/riding from the notch, and i remember the left being a good climbing route, when i did it i remeber there being many options for finishing, the route described by jason sounds cool and similar to the way i went, though its possible to climb more or less straight on up to the n.ridge and scramble on to the airy summit. also when i did it clouds obscured any hopes of a w.side descent and reversing the route was reasonable, though time consuming. cool to hear of others gettin on these somewhat obscure tho super acessable routes, cool vantage point as well. a fun scenario is to climb either route and stash board(s) and the juntion of the couliors and finish up on the left/ n.ridge and return and rip back down to the car... fun fun fun. thanx jason for post, brings back good memories, see ya out there. cheers -bobbyp

[plexus]

Just some FYI,

 

the Skagit Alpine Club is holding its self-arresting class and will climb Whistler on Saturday. About 20 students and about 10 instructors...just a heads up.

[johndavidjr]

The couloir write-up certainly enjoyable & got me thinking of my own ascent of Whistler via normal N.Ridge route. I was client with guide from Alabama via Ft Lewis. September & no snow, & we saw impressive rockfall in couloir system. There was one brief section of really criddy rock to get into the notch from grassy meadows. We saw a party of 2 at notch, traversing from direction of Whistler. N. Ridge was accurately rated by guidebook at class3 & some 4 -- & bits of 2. Ridge was nice, but Beckey called it "superb rock" which was maybe true, relatively. Nice day & saw where large animal may have been working over some marmot holes.