#5 Camalot

[TimL]

I bought one of these monsters about 3 years ago and besides hanging in my closet like an upside down Christmas tree I have yet to actually use it in any of my trips to Yosemite nor around here in the PNW. I have yet to come across a crack that big that I can't protect with smaller gear inside the crack or close by or just run it out a 10-15 feet and have good gear.

 

I think this year is the time to use this bad boy. Can anyone think of climbs you can do that require a #5 Camalot for protection. By require I mean there are no smaller cracks or ample opportunities for protection in the immediate vicinity. Basically, your ran out and a # 5 is the only thing that will work in a huge crack that’s truly a mind bender. I can only think of one or 2 climbs that might fit like Pipeline or the offwidth pitch of Backbone Ridge of Dragontail (I've heard of people using a #5 of this pitch but don't know if its required). Can anyone think of others? They must be around?

 

Spray away!

 

 

Edited March 26, 2003 by TimL

[erik]

heh

 

i can prolly think of a few...

 

i will ply you with them this weekend

[fern]

it's too small for Pipeline - #6 Friend baby.

 

maybe Split Beaver though.

[Winter]

Hmmm ... SW Rib of SEWS? I think we used a sketchy #4 placement for the bearhug. Its been awhile. A #5 would work well.

[catbirdseat]

There are numerous climbs at Vantage that would not only take, but require your #5. Some of the routes on the Green Wall take gear up to 9 inches. The cracks get wider and wider as you go up. Not a lot of people seem to like offwidths though.

[TimL]

fern said:

 

maybe Split Beaver though.

 

I love Squamish for that reason and many others!

[TimL]

Winter said:

Hmmm ... SW Rib of SEWS? I think we used a sketchy #4 placement for the bearhug. Its been awhile. A #5 would work well.

 

A number #5 would work but if I recall correctly when we did it in a snow storm a couple of years ago I placed a #2 or a #4 close together at the bottom of the cracks and it was easy climbing for about 15 feet till you topped out on the bear hug pitch and could get good gear.

[fern]

maybe the Scimitar too. you wanna ropegun it for me? .11b OW sounds fun . Also maybe Hypertension or whatever that .11a-ish thing at Murrin is called.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

TimL said:

Winter said:

Hmmm ... SW Rib of SEWS? I think we used a sketchy #4 placement for the bearhug. Its been awhile. A #5 would work well.

 

A number #5 would work but if I recall correctly when we did it in a snow storm a couple of years ago I placed a #2 or a #4 close together at the bottom of the cracks and it was easy climbing for about 15 feet till you topped out on the bear hug pitch and could get good gear.

 

You could lead Toxic with it and instead of clipping the 3rd bolt, you could plug the #5 into the big bucket.

[ctuller]

There's a route on Castelton tower that'll take the #5 just dandy. We climbed it about 10 years ago, I can't remeber the name but it's aroud the back side.

Climbing in the desert is fun

[Winter]

TimL said:

Winter said:

Hmmm ... SW Rib of SEWS? I think we used a sketchy #4 placement for the bearhug. Its been awhile. A #5 would work well.

 

A number #5 would work but if I recall correctly when we did it in a snow storm a couple of years ago I placed a #2 or a #4 close together at the bottom of the cracks and it was easy climbing for about 15 feet till you topped out on the bear hug pitch and could get good gear.

 

Yeah, we used a #4 but at the bottom but it was pretty stretched out. The climbing is easy at the bottom, but I think its your first piece off the belay.

[TimL]

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

TimL said:

Winter said:

Hmmm ... SW Rib of SEWS? I think we used a sketchy #4 placement for the bearhug. Its been awhile. A #5 would work well.

 

A number #5 would work but if I recall correctly when we did it in a snow storm a couple of years ago I placed a #2 or a #4 close together at the bottom of the cracks and it was easy climbing for about 15 feet till you topped out on the bear hug pitch and could get good gear.

 

You could lead Toxic with it and instead of clipping the 3rd bolt, you could plug the #5 into the big bucket.

 

DFA - Get real man. If I was seen with a #5 Camalot in the park, let alone on that climb I'd have my Smith Rock Sport Climber membership card revoked.

 

[Montana_Climber]

Veaduvoo in Wyoming has plenty of off-widths that'll take a number 5. I don't know of too many other places that have 5.12 OW. Craig Leubben designed the Big Bro pieces for this area. There are off-widths that require 12" placements and are parallel splitters for a 100' or so.

[TimL]

Very true. It was my first placement off the belay. Some people might want a #5 some might not. I guess its whatever lets you have the most fun on a good route.

[bird]

I bummed my homeboy's #5 for Mushmaker at Tieton. It ain't no pipeline, though. It's only 5.7... and only about 15-20' of real wide stuff at the top. I bet, like at Vantage, there are a lot of opportunities for wide cracks at Tieton.

[TimL]

Montana_Climber said:

Veaduvoo in Wyoming has plenty of off-widths that'll take a number 5. I don't know of too many other places that have 5.12 OW. Craig Leubben designed the Big Bro pieces for this area. There are off-widths that require 12" placements and are parallel splitters for a 100' or so.

 

Wow, I'd like to see those routes.

[ctuller]

Oh Yeah

Vedauwoo is another very sweet place for those big cams.

Vedawoo WY

[Necronomicon]

Backbone Ridge 5.9 OW pitch on Dragontail. Walk it up as you grovel, tons o' fun!

[Dru]

definitely hypertension; i think you can get away with #4.5 for split beav and also skulduggery; march of the kitchen utensils? carnival crack?

 

the memorial pillar OW (see Red Beckey guide) goes at A3 on 5" to 9" sawn off aluminum pipe sections and sideways bongs, its just waiting for some hotshot to free it. i will belay and jumar!!

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

TimL said:

 

DFA - Get real man. If I was seen with a #5 Camalot in the park, let alone on that climb I'd have my Smith Rock Sport Climber membership card revoked.

 

 

It's cool, bro. Just carry an extra stick clip (for a total of two, natch), and clip the #5 to your ear. People will think you're some crazy Slavic hardman and will keep their distance.

[Dru]

isnt there some OW on Mesa Verde wall somewhere? that watts says is "smith's best OW which isnt saying much?"

 

hey dfa when is ETA for the new guidebook?

Edited March 26, 2003 by Dru

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Dru said:

isnt there some 5.11 OW on Mesa Verde wall somewhere?

 

Where?

[fern]

Clean Corner ?

[iain]

you could probably shove one in on 5 gallon. would be in keeping with the circus that shows up there periodically.

[chucK]

Dru said:

isnt there some OW on Mesa Verde wall somewhere? that watts says is "smith's best OW which isnt saying much?"

 

As I recall, that one is "Dr. Doom" or something like that and maybe it's only 5.9 or something. Perhaps there's a 5.11 approach pitch that can be avoided?

 

Yeah TimL, the #5 made my life stress free on the Backbone Ridge MC 90-foot offwidth, but plenty of other sprayers here may disagree that it is "necessary". I believe Erik told me not to bother bringing the #4!