iain Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 bah it is replaced easily with stacked yellow tricams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 What about that optional offwidth on Angel's Crest? Anybody (fern? Dru?) know if a #5 will suffice there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 26, 2003 Author Share Posted March 26, 2003 Thats an amazing crack! Thats what I'm talking about! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 We saw some the Deschutes County SAR folks last weekend on the West Side at Smith. They were sporting 3 big bros, a half dozen big ass hexes and a large cam. At least they looked like the could climb OWs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 chucK said: What about that optional offwidth on Angel's Crest? Anybody (fern? Dru?) know if a #5 will suffice there? Â i think its 7" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Speaking of offwidths .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 jeez I got some sweaty hands reading that account! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Holy crap that is funny. It makes a good read. Â "I have a confession to make. When I first saw the bolt on Pipeline from the incredible belay stance of Fray Ends... I was disgusted. I vowed then and there to spit on it as I went past. But now, seeing the hanger come to Papa, I pretty much slaughtered the finest lamb and threw a party." Â "Anyway. I'm sure all the hardmen out there would shake their head at the thought of using a whole roll of tape in a single ascent of any route. Fortunately, I didn't have to push my way through a crowd of hardmen to reach the base of the route. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Just hang on to it so I can borrow it from you if I ever need to. Didn't you know that you joined the climbers co-op when you bought that cam? I'vd got a threaded 2X4 if you need pro for a 36" offwidth. Wanna trade? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 About Clean Corner: Â A #5 Camalot can be placed at about shoulder height from the ledge you start from. It isn't real secure but it gets you started and gives you something to worry about as you try to get past it so you don't try to look ahead too far. It won't be needed on the rest of the climb. Bolts have appeared in the area and may simplify things. It looks like this may become an exit pitch for new climbs under it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Split Beaver can be done with 1 #4 camalot. Most of it isn't wide at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Mikey's Offwidth Journal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 bigwalling said: Split Beaver can be done with 1 #4 camalot. Most of it isn't wide at all. Â have you done it??? Â what other pro should i expect to use?? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 starts as hands...you better takes lots of tcus and aliens, just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 A long time ago I climbed Split Beaver with prototype/demo large Camelot. I think the #5 cam out after they had been in production awhile. Therefore it seems likely that I was using a #4; however, since it was along time ago I am not sure if the sizing on the unit I was using was the same as production units (although I can’t imagine it wasn’t) Split Beaver didn’t seem too badly protected and that it wasn’t very continuous.  PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 erik said: bigwalling said: Split Beaver can be done with 1 #4 camalot. Most of it isn't wide at all. Â have you done it??? Â what other pro should i expect to use?? Â Â Split Beaver is a fist crack. All you need is some costalot size #3s and maybe a 3.5. I think that's compatible to a #4 friend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 How about the left side of the split piller. I don't remember if I had one but I think i should of... Â Pitch 5 of Aurora on El Cap.. Bring and least 2. Â There are some good easy wide thing down in the gorge at smith. Great place to use the #5 without massive amounts of cursing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 specialed said: erik said: bigwalling said: Split Beaver can be done with 1 #4 camalot. Most of it isn't wide at all. Â have you done it??? Â what other pro should i expect to use?? Â Â Split Beaver is a fist crack. All you need is some costalot size #3s and maybe a 3.5. I think that's compatible to a #4 friend? Â yeah but if you are a wimp and worried about cheese gratering out as you try to push up your piece the 4.5 is nice for the last few feet... what really helps for that climb is long arms to reach in and grab the chockstones... then you dont need OW technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Okay Tim, I found a couple for ya in 11worth: Â In the Icicle: Carnival Crack 5.10d gear to 8" Â In Tumwater Cayon: Gym Roof 5.10a on Tumwater Tower Super Crack 12c on Midnight Rock Raft Crack on Raft Rock, 5.10c Pro to 5" Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 I think you are right on the money about Leavenworth stuff  Carnival Crack Big Bertha I TR'd something on the far side of punk rock a long time ago that is not in any guides that was long and would require big gear We all have seen the ocaasionaly mossy ow somewhere up high off the beaten track in the encahnments or Stuart area. ----------------- Supercrack takes the pink camalot up high (#4) ---------------- Leavenworth kicks ass! Diverse climbing and good weather.  And I don't care what anybody says, I love Gustav's!     Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Huh, $10 with fries. Screw dat.  I'd rather go to Gustav's than climb OW though  Where is Tricky, his OW TR from a few months back made me want to lean back and jack up the volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Uncle Uli's!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Jens said: Leavenworth kicks ass! Diverse climbing and good weather. Â And I don't care what anybody says, I love Gustav's! Â I'm with ya man. If you ever need a gustav n' 11worth lover let me know. Â Not to mention the scenery is definitely better than your average crag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Urge you 11wth lovers to head over there right now, it's double good now because you'll not only get pumped, you'll also lose weight - all the weight the ticks can run away with that is. Â Actually, what are good places in Icicle/Tumwater Canyons in tick season? 8-mile rock is great, no ticks there, other suggestions? Uh, tick-free OW anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 27, 2003 Author Share Posted March 27, 2003 Super Crack is so on the list for this year. Â So is the left side of the split. Mike - you'd reccomend to bring a # 5 for that one? Â After seeing Pipeline that stuff looks awesome to. Â Raft Rock crack looks like a really cool line from the road. Looks dirty though. Â What about Mastadon Roof? Although pro is not reccomended to 5 its looks like it could get large. Â Leavenworth does rock. Gustavs greasy fries and are the best. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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