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Ground Fall TR


Dru

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Dru said:

This Tr will be confuso Cause i am on beer already bigdrink.gif

 

steve came out to wack.

we took all sortsa shit like 100 pins and 50 cams and 40 draws and 40 nuts, a powerdrill and 10 bolts out to "RockFace" on Highway 7. the aim was to do some aid FA and do whatever the fuck as good practice as opposed to Squamish designer comfortized scrubbed aid lines.

 

well first we drove around and up past yale and back lokin for dry rock. wasnt none so we went back to rockface by default

 

mmade Death approach (5 minutes, 100m from car) to a wall 50m right of the 2 established lines. dumped gear. racked up.

 

i won the rock-scissors-paper and started leading. excavated moss and dirt from crack. placed orange friend. bomber

 

2nd stepped. excavated crack. placed nut. bounced. nut tracked down 6 inches shocked.gif and wedged good

 

3rd stepped off nut and dug moss & mud out of crack. baby angle. bing bing bing. started bouncing. angle ripped. short daisy fall on nut. nut held.

 

climbed back up. 2nd stepped on nut. dug more out of crack. placed same angle a bit higheer. no ding ding. hmmmmm shocked.gif

stepped onto top-and-a-half cheat steps, excavated. fat LA. welded it. dull thudding the whole way. lip of flake broke off, pounded deeper, still thudding. Ok its prob expando

 

bounced LA. even with big bounces, not a prob. not a smidgen of move. 2nd stepped on LA.

 

clean crack finally. but a thin undercling type flake. scoured out a loose rock from behind it. put in gray tcu. looked like it was tipped-out. took it out, put in purple. yarded. lokked good.

 

got on purple. started bouncing. on about 9th-10th increasing force bounce, full on jump up and down, tcu pulled. daisy fell on LA. LA pulled. hit ground from about 12' up.

 

got up. bouldering type fall. thick carpet of moss. no breaks. knuckles ripped to shit from holding grab loops during chees grater gear rippin experience. FUCKIDYFUCKFUCKEXPANFUCKINGDOFUCK madgo_ron.gif

 

asked steve if he wanted to lead it. he didnt

looked for other good lines nearby. nada.

looked at established lines.look like (are) free projects not qual aid lines.

 

gave up. went to nearby slab right off highway. started raining. wet slab. packed up.

 

drove to chehalis roadside. did hundredth meridian (10a sport crimping) in the rain

 

drove home

 

beer bigdrink.gif, shower

 

anybody? are cam hooks better for expando than pins and cams? maybe i should get some. fruit.gif must buy more gear. rolleyes.gif

 

Arnt thou supposed to not bounce test thy pieces quite so frcking hard? Wha' kinda bigwaller art thou, anyway?

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DFA, if it wont hold skinny me bouncing, it wont hold a fall, so better to test it and find that out, than not test it and have it unexpectedly rip when you count on it to hold.

 

or to seem good from below then pop when you top step it shocked.gif

 

the only thing not to bounce test is bodyweight only stuff like hooks cause they might just pop if you bounce em

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I bounce my hooks sometimes. Gently!

 

DFA I was tauhgt to bounce the s$%^ out of stuff. The idea is that if you really load a piece then you know it will hold a fall if the next piece blows while testing it.

 

Otherwise you never really know, and you get higher and higher wondering if any of the stuff below is any good at all??? Then you test less and less, and eventually you blow a piece.

 

I dunno about new wave sick aid stuff though.

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