Mt Rainier Liberty Ridge (May/June)

[Joshwl]

Next month i'm headed up Liberty Ridge to try to get the youngest accent at 16 (nobody older than me has done it from my research). Looking for 1-2 partners with Ice/Mixed/Glacial expierience and ether previous Rainier summits or previous Liberty Ridge climbs. Preferably under 25 years old, but not required. The goal is to make a documentary of the route since it doesn't see very much media. I have 1 previous rainier summit (DC, nothing to crazy) 2 summits of shasta (1 during winter and both were on challenging routes) advanced mixed and rock climbing skills, as well as glacier travel. Haven't gotten into full on ice yet but i'm headed up to the sierras to practice before hand.

Edited May 6, 2025 by Joshwl

[Berg Schrund]

At risk of sounding rude, this doesn't seem like a great idea. Are you prepared to simul-climb/solo endless amounts of steep snow/AI2 on the upper route? Are you prepared to tackle a potentially overhanging bergschrund problem at 14k? This is certainly a route where you would want some mileage on ice, which admittedly you say you do not have. Not to mention the approach itself is an undertaking- routes such as the wanded, bootpacked DC won't prepare you for the crevassed maze of the Carbon. There are numerous other routes of more moderate difficulty and less commitment in the Cascades (and even on Rainier itself, i.e. Kautz) to hop on and build the necessary skillset. The Emmons glacier may be a more appropriate "step-up" if you feel you have you crevasse rescue techniques pretty dialed and felt the DC was too bland- a bit more independence and routefinding than the DC, with the benefit of low commitment and minimal to no technical movement... And if you wish to do Liberty Ridge in the future this has the added benefit of getting familiar with the primary descent option.

[JasonG]

Hey @Joshwl.....Sounds like you should hire some guides and not put that sort of responsibility on partners to bring a minor home alive to his parents.  I worry that anyone under 25 won't properly understand the gravity of having someone's son in their care on a route like Liberty Ridge.

As the parent of 15 and 17 year old boys, I would ground my kids if they were trying to do something like this with your level of experience- mostly because I've climbed Liberty Ridge!

While you may pull it off and be the "youngest" to climb the route, it won't result in much attention and really isn't something that will change the the trajectory of your life for the better.  Sorry to be the wet blanket old guy, but I do believe it is the truth. 

Glad that you are so psyched on the mountains though!  It is a grand hobby that can enrich your life for decades....

[manninjo]

Liberty Ridge is low key a chop route with seracs at the very top that threaten the route that really aren't discussed much, maybe due to its 50 classic inclusion. tons of sidehilling on the ridge as well = not really classic climbing imo. It is certainly a big cool feature on an amazing mountain.

youngest person to climb it so far was 4 years old. https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/young-and-old-make-it-to-the-top/.

AAJ talks about 15 year old having accident at thumb rock in 1978, my bet is some 13-14-15 year-old did it long ago with no hype. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13197803202

[JasonG]

Wow, that sounded like quite the rescue in 1978! 

I would not be psyched at a 1000' lower in that shooting gallery..... glad nobody was killed.

[bigeo]

My good friend and climbing partner for 50 years climbed LR at the age of 14. 

[JasonG]

Things happened before the internet?!

[bigeo]

Yes, back in the days of myth and legend

[Bronco]

On 4/30/2025 at 9:19 PM, bigeo said:

My good friend and climbing partner for 50 years climbed LR at the age of 14. 

More evidence that boomers ruin everything for the youngsters.  How's this kid supposed to be the youngest to climb anything now?

[olyclimber]

It’s awful tough to do anything novel these days.  And the old people who scoff at you know someone who did it up hills both ways, back before the invention of the wheel (which makes everything so easy for the kids these days).  
So you’re left with being the first 12 year old up Willis Wall. 
 

Best of luck though! But the best climber is the one having the most fun, right? So try to be that climber maybe, I guess.

[Joshwl]

On 4/30/2025 at 9:47 AM, JasonG said:

Hey @Joshwl.....Sounds like you should hire some guides and not put that sort of responsibility on partners to bring a minor home alive to his parents.  I worry that anyone under 25 won't properly understand the gravity of having someone's son in their care on a route like Liberty Ridge.

As the parent of 15 and 17 year old boys, I would ground my kids if they were trying to do something like this with your level of experience- mostly because I've climbed Liberty Ridge!

While you may pull it off and be the "youngest" to climb the route, it won't result in much attention and really isn't something that will change the the trajectory of your life for the better.  Sorry to be the wet blanket old guy, but I do believe it is the truth. 

Glad that you are so psyched on the mountains though!  It is a grand hobby that can enrich your life for decades....

I found a mentor! im headed up the baker north ridge soon and then I will resconsider LR depending on how much I progress. Im so happy I got into this at my age.

[james_l.7]

Hi!  I know I am a bit late.  But I am intersted in Liberty Ridge as well.  I have numerous wi5+ under my belt plus rainier, baker, helens, hood (1 time each).  I also am under 25 as a matter of fact.  I am considering it this July 2026 given weather conditions and peer reviews.  I've asked around and not many do climb Lr.  And out of those who do, 99% don't post or update so I have no idea of the condition of the route.  I heard with melting it has been even worse!  Though I have messaged a couple of people who say they might do it and for them to let me know how things go.

[Bronco]

conditions: https://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Liberty Ridge

 

Route Guide: https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Liberty-Ridge-Routebrief.pdf

[aikidjoe]

My 2 cents, in general, July is now late for Liberty Ridge because, as you say, melting is far worse. Tons of rockfall and ice fall hazard, really just luck if you don't get hit by something. Memorial Day weekend (when the road to White River usually opens) through mid June are better options, but less reliable weather so have to be flexible. When I did it around Memorial Day weekend in 2015 we were nearly killed by a serac fall near the top of the route, and there was a ton of rock debris around thumb rock (fortunately none fell on us while sleeping). That was a low snow year, but my observation is Tahoma has only gotten rockier and less icy since then.