Canehdian Rockies TR

[fredrogers]

Here's a TR- with photos to follow as soon as I get them scanned:

 

TimL and I just got back from a 6 day trip to the Canadian Rockies last night. Thanks to Tim's over-sized right foot, excellent driving conditions and a lack of Mounties and WA State Patrol, our driving times were sub-10 hours each way. Which left of plenty of time to climb:

 

Friday we climbed Lady Wilson's Cleavage on the Icefields Parkway after determining that our first choices, the Finishing Hammer and Sniveling Gullies, were not in the best shape. Given the route’s reputation as a terrain trap, it wasn’t without some trepidation that we started up the nice broad ice sidewalk to the first pitch of ice. That was almost forgotten as we get involved in the climbing, which was nice short steps of 2+/3- interspersed with smaller steps of WI 2 and some snow walking. As Tim topped out of the final ice pitch, I got to play dodgeball as the sun began sending some rock down into the gully. The final ice pitch to the Wilson Headwall was mostly snow and slush and, along with the falling rock, we decided it was time to bail. The route was set with Abaklovs and the final two raps were off bolts set into the rock. You could get off with one 60M rope, but having twin 60’s was nice. Go early, so that you our out of the gully by the time the sun starts hitting the slopes above- also be very aware of avalanche conditions, as you would be f*#ked should anything come down the gully with you in it. All in all, a great way to spend my second day on ice.

 

After having car trouble Friday night and Saturday morning, we spent the afternoon climbing in the Icefields Parkway again, this time at the Balfour Wall. Beautiful sunny skies led to some impressive views of the Reality Bath and the East Face of Howse peak, as well as some incredibly plastic ice. We shared the wall with a really cool group of folks from Red Deer and all had a great time climbing. Much to recommend about this spot, not only the position, but the range of difficulty available (2 to 4+ and a couple of mixed lines) and the ease of setting up TR’s. It’s a nice place to climb without the crowds at Haffner or other areas closer to town. It was also cool to watch avalanches and seracs rumble down the faces of the peaks across the way as the afternoon wore on. We packed it in early, since we decided that our Sunday objective was This House of Sky in the Ghost Valley.

 

Sunday morning saw us up and out the door by around 4:30, as we expected to leave Tim’s Golf (AKA Tuffy) at the top of the "Big Hill" which guards access to the Ghost, and hoof it in to the base of the climb. Leaving early turned out to be a good thing, as it took us a while to find our way to the access road, including an accidental trip into Calgary. We chained up and started motoring our way down the 16km to the top of the Big Hill. Aboot 2/3 of the way there, one of the chains broke. So we pulled off and were trying to figure out what the hell to do, when a truck pulled up and asked us if we were okay. After talking to the folks in the truck (Angel, Chris and Kurt), we discovered that they were also headed in to do the route and they told us to jump in the back of the truck and we were off into the Ghost.

 

A note on accessing the Ghost: don’t even consider it in a 2WD with low clearance, like a VW Golf. Also, it’s a long way from the top of the Big Hill to any of the climbs, which involves at least 3 river crossings. I would go in a high clearance 4WD, with chains, a tow rope and a bunch of people to push, although we did see one group in there in a vintage Subaru wagon. I don’t have any driving beta, as both Tim and I were trying to stay alive in the back of the truck and not brain ourselves on the top of the camper shell.

 

We soon found ourselves at the parking area for the route and after suiting up, headed out the 300M or so to the first short step of ice. Tim and I headed up first, with Angel, Chris and Kurt (ACK) right behind us. We took one of their radios and agreed to bail when they wanted to leave, as their plan was to just climb a couple of pitches and have Chris shoot some photos. A couple of small steps of WI2 led to the first pitch of "real" ice, which consisted of a picked out, thin layer, formed on top of a crude wooden ladder. Tim led it in fine style and I quaked my way up after him, uncomfortable with hooking after bashing myself in the face with a tool while learning how to hook. This was followed by a long bit of walking, with some small steps of ice and rock climbing over melted out sections. We arrived at the next pitch of WI3, which was also pretty picked out, but sported a nice log on one side for some great Canadian "mixed" climbing (one tool and crampon in the log, one on the ice). Tim managed to get a couple of screws in on this pitch, but I don’t think either inspired a great deal of confidence. This lead to more rambly sections of 2-2+, with the ice quality improving the higher we got. I think we belayed maybe 2 more sections of 3 or 3-, with lots of short steps of 2-2+ in-between. Meanwhile, it had begun to snow pretty hard, adding to the really cool, alpine feeling of the route.

 

Tim and I topped out in the bowl below the final pitches and began to rappel the route, thinking that ACK, climbing with 2 pairs of tools between the three of them, would be moving slowly and want to bail. Another team came up and said that they weren’t far behind, so we re-climbed the last pitch and had a bite to eat. I wandered back to the top of the last pitch and saw Kurt climbing the second to last pitch below, followed shortly by Angel and Chris. I lowered my tools off the last pitch so that they could climb it faster and escape the Germans that had been climbing up and over them for several pitches below. After they came up, the group made the decision to bail, rather than attempt the last couple of pitches (which looked to be the best).

 

We walked off the route, all the while marveling at the folks who had sniffed out this descent in between cliff bands and grateful for the flagging leading the way. We did fix one handline for a steep and really slippery part of the descent, and ended up with the Germans and half of the Canmore Alpine Club using the rope too… My patience was at an end when the three last members of the CAC decided to rap instead of using the rope as a handline, but I was reminded by Kurt that we didn’t have to go back up and rescue any of them and that was worth the small inconvenience of waiting. Or, in his words, it was "a good introduction to being Canadian." I had to agree.

 

We tossed our gear and ourselves in the back of the truck and we were happy when we powered our way up the Big Hill and arrived back at Tuffy. Here, Chris and Kurt again came to our aid and managed to fix our chain with some bolt cutters and vise grips. We made the mistake of thinking we could make it without chains, and after the first hill and a botched tow job, put them back on until we reached the main road.

 

This House of Sky was truly an amazing route, offering enough mixed and varied climbing to be interesting, yet not a total ass kicker for this relative newbie. Combined with the remoteness of the setting and the good folks (ACK) who made our access to the route possible, this was definitely one of my best days in the mountains. Tim and I have both vowed to back and finish the last 2-3 pitches of the route.

 

Monday morning found us moving a little slowly and me with badly blistered feet from my plastics, so we opted for a day of cragging close to the road and headed to the Haffner Creek area after hearing a friend extol its virtues. Following the short approach, we entered the Smith Rock of the mixed climbing world, complete with lots of bolts, barking dogs and Euros climbing leashless while smoking cigarettes and too many people in tight pants. We met a couple of guys from Calgary who agreed to throw a rope up on an M7 after they were done, as well as giving us some beta on the other routes around the creek. Tim took a couple of laps on the route, while I belayed and marveled at the people on the really hard mixed routes around us, as well as the woman who led this thin, free hanging icicle and curtain in amazing style and only 2 screws. Tim then led one of the only pitches of ice left in the canyon, a showery, wet pitch of WI4 that gave me a run for my money when I followed. We both took another lap on it and decided to pull the plug, as we had had enough of the scene and intended to climb the following morning. Haffner was a huge contrast to the Ghost the day before, and while I’m sure it has its devotees, I’m not sure that I’ll be going back anytime soon.

 

All in all, it was a great trip and a good introduction to climbing in the Rockies. I can’t wait to go back, for more ice and for some alpine routes after seeing Yak Peak (yes, I know it’s not in the Rockies, but on the way there), as well as Mt. Sir Donald’s NW Arete.

 

 

 

 

 

[Lambone]

Nice report dude thanks! Sounds like a good plan for a first timer up there...

 

Canadians are sure a bunch of whimps huh!

[Alex]

awesome, the rockies rock

[daler]

Tim and Fredrogers,

 

Nice job on getting into the ghost. I thought I'd give you a little humor from my last adventure into the area. These are from the drive into the Waiparous to access Hydrophobia and routes like Kemosabe, The ice funnel etc... My sugestion is to walk the 3 hours from the ghost to get to hydro unless you have the proper vehicle. I had done hydro from the ghost and thought we would try the proper way the second time around. Lets just say it wasn't our day!!!

 

 

Tim do you have Rafael's new phone # ? if so please send me a e-mail.

 

cheers,

 

Dale

 

 

Edited February 20, 2003 by daler

[daler]

I forgot to mention- make sure you know where the nearest phone is, or rent a satellite phone. from where these pictures are its about 40 miles to the nearest phone. We got lucky. i'll post a story later.

 

dale

 

 

[fredrogers]

Dale-

 

We got lucky also. Without Kurt, Chris and Angel, Tim and I would have climbed nothing and probably had to walk out to get a tow.

 

I saw in the guidebook that access via Waiparious Creek is suppossed to be more difficult than the Ghost, so I can't imagine what it's like... nice shot of the tow truck company's name. The Canadians have a nice subtle sense of humor, eh?

 

Look forward to the story.

[Dru]

good story. also see will gad's site www.gravsports.com for more tales of ghost road mayhem

[Lambone]

Dale, Why is'nt that truck a proper vehicle? Did you need studded tiers on the icy road or somethin?

[TimL]

Like Fred said, we were so lucky to sneak into and out of the Ghost and climb something without having a huge epic. to the friendly Canadians! The Ghost is an awesome area. I can't wait to go back.

 

Lambone - The road seemed to be super compact snow and ice. Basically, without chains I tried to make it up a hill with the road averaging about 20 degrees for 400 ft and couldn't crest the top. Once I stopped I started sliding down hill sideways because of the weight of my car. Thank God I was able to stop the slide and slowly back/slide down or else we would of paid a visit to Big Hill towing. Chains are the money for getting in and out. It seems no matter if your in a high clearance 4wd or not, if you lose it your going in a ditch. Theres not much room for error on the road into the Ghost.

 

Dale - I'm interested in hearing your story. I don't have Raf's new # but I just emailed him for it. I'll shoot it over to you once he emails me back.

 

 

Climbing in the Rockies is so fun. I can't wait to make it back. It makes me want to move someplace where there is better access to more reliable ice.

 

[layton]

Daler,

Did it cost you $300 to get towed. Also the 3 hour approch you mentioned from the Ghost. Do you just hike the road from past Sorcerer starting from the N.Ghost?

Thanks

[daler]

Matt,

 

The problem is not the roads- its the river crossings. If its not cold enough to completly freeze it you run the risk of being part way across then puching in and being totally fucked. A wench or (comealong; not sure of the spelling on that one) is needed.

In our case the ice was only 3 inches thick with 30 inches of water underneath. Way to scary to give it a go. We found a bypass but got stuck going in( notice the tracks t the left of the picture where the pack is sitting.) with much effort and 2 hours later we got down into the drainange but figured we should spend our energy on getting out. After scoping multiple routes and breaking trail by hooking our spectra cordelettes to the bumper and pulling deadfall down we got to the position you see in the picture. after another two hours of blocking and jacking and it was clear we needed bigger tools. Remember we are 40 miles from nowhere and its a thursday, not to many people out for a drive. We repacked our gear taking only the esentials, the most important being a couple of lighters to start a fire if we didn't find help. Off we went. After 3 miles of jogging we hit camp mockingbird, a summer camp for group events. All gated up and no sign of any people we almost kept walking, but something clicked and we decided to walk into the camp just to have a look. When we got closer we heard a dull wack-wack-wack. Upon closer inspection there happended to be a maitenance worker there for the day choping some wood. And to clench the deal she was a beautiful blond. she told us it was the one day that month somebody was schelduled to be there. You could just imagine the grin on our faces. She had a phone and within an hour we had the tow truck driver giving us a ride back to the mishap. We were back in Canmore for lunch. Way way way to lucky. The next day we climbed the Replicant, opting for a long approach but still able to see cars in the distance.

As far as the price goes getting stuck early is key. the further you get stuck in the waiparous the more its costs. 300-3000 bucks (its all cheap in Canadian dollars eh!!!)

Also the lighter and a small tin cup for melting water is key for climbing deep in the ghost. Opportunity for spendng the night is great. Thats why I love that area, it still feels like a wild place.

 

I'll try and write about the other minor epic we had on the hydrophobia day the year before.

 

cheers,

 

dale

[Lambone]

great story dale!

[Dru]

A wench or (comealong; not sure of the spelling on that one) is needed.

At least you know how to spell "WENCH"

[Mer]

A saw an add on a bulletin board in a laundo-mat in Terrace BC that said "For sale, truck with 2000 lb wench". Sure she'd get you out of the ditch, but how do you attach her to the bumper?

[dr._jay]

hey dale, what about the good part of the story when you're hanging around with the beautiful blonde waiting for the tow truck? tell us about that too, please--or at least make up some stuff.

[layton]

Yeah, I pulled a local out w/my truck exactly where you are describing. So what's the deal w/ the approach from the N.Ghost???

[David_Parker]

Fred (or anyone with experience), were other people making it very far in, or were the river crossings too dicey? Do the ones making it way in have big tires, chains on 4X4 or what. Would Subaru Forester with chains on all wheels work or is a 4-runner better? Do the running boards typical to 4-runners get in the way? I realy don't need one of these epics, but I also hear it's worth the risk!

[fredrogers]

David_Parker said:

Fred (or anyone with experience), were other people making it very far in, or were the river crossings too dicey? Do the ones making it way in have big tires, chains on 4X4 or what. Would Subaru Forester with chains on all wheels work or is a 4-runner better? Do the running boards typical to 4-runners get in the way? I realy don't need one of these epics, but I also hear it's worth the risk!

 

David-

We were in a 4x4 Toyota pick-up, which didn't appear to have any major lift or other aftermarket conversions. We didn't chain up at all, although I bet the driver had mud/snow tires on... None of the rivers were frozen (or if they were I didn't see them from the bed of the truck) and were maybe 2-3 feet deep. We were following a monster truck that took some deeper crossings, but you could drive around and find a shallower place to ford. We drove all the way to the end of the road- about a 10 minute walk from there to the start of This House of Sky. There was a 80's vintage Subaru Wagon parked at the same spot we did when we got back to the car, so I guess it's possible in a non-truck if you know the way. I'd take the 4-Runner over the Forester, just because the river crossings were so deep and it's really rough terrain once you get to the bottom of the Big Hill. Dale's experience might also suggest going in on a weekend, so that other folks will be around to help if you get stuck (if nothing else to give you a ride to the road).

 

[Dru]

"running boards on SUV = never drives offroad loser"

 

i hate runningboards even more than the Pontiac Asstek

[allthumbs]

I pulled the running boards off my Expedition when I owned the piece of shit. They unbolt easily. These new SUV's have too much plastic shit hanging all over them. It unbolts.

[fredrogers]

 

I uploaded some photos for your viewing enjoyment. Unfortunately, I have them in reverse order- so start with page 2! Thanks to Kurtis at Spindrift Productions for the use of some of his images from this House of Sky.

 

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?ppuser=501&cat=500&thumb=1

[Lambone]

nice ones dude!