Lostbolt Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Hey people not new to climbing by any means, and have had my fair share of " how am I still talking moments never climbing related. At the young age of 39 (now) I fell 70ft no fault of mine or anyone's completely freak accident. I compound fractured my tib fib and barely missed the artery. I am processing the mental part ok, but my big question is. Do any of you saltier old dogs have advice besides the hang in there. Or what helped you get through a similar thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psathyrella Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I am only a few years saltier than you, but jfc man that fucking sucks. I luckily haven't had that level of traumatic injury, but I just started treadwalling this week after four months of no climbing after a shoulder surgery, and have cumulatively missed much more time in the past to various other injuries. The first month after surgery can be rough -- if you need the meds to sleep, you need them, but they are as addictive as all fuck and get off them as soon as you can. After that, figure out goals and hobbies and things to work toward. Having a spouse/partner helps a lot. Patience is key, so this is way, way easier at 40 than at 20; months pass so fast now. If your lower body is messed up, obsess on training your upper: hangboard, pullups, etc. Dive into the Anderson bros book and the New Alpinism. Oh, and physical therapy is *magic* if you are diligent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I am medium salty, nearing 50. You'll probably heal a lot faster than a lot of us older dogs. I am still recovering from shattering my thumb last year and I think "hang in there" about sums it up. That, and don't stop the PT! Not a lot of good that can be said for recovering from a big injury. I will say that being laid up is a good reminder that a well-rounded life has its benefits. Other hobbies, friends, and family often get pushed aside for climbing, and now is the time to rectify some of that deficit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I snapped my tib/fib falling off a training wall at the UW. and before that had an infection that almost killed me that I got while climbing. these things happened in consecutive years and after the second incident I ended up just focusing on my son and raising him, and my climbing dropped off a cliff. Breaking my leg definitely had a psychological effect on me, and I can't say that I ever really recovered to where I was before that happened...so maybe I'm not the guy to talk to. But now that my son is raised I've been getting back into the hills again (just scrambles and planning a modest easy climb with a ropegun). I'd like to get out cragging again too, but my goals and aspirations are no where near what they were, but I'm ok with that. I just like getting outside and into the alpine and staying as fit as I can. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lostbolt Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Thank you all for this, my dad and his old climbing partner were crazy and are in there 70s now so they are trying to help. My kids are 10, 12 13 and I am still married, my family has helped a ton. Sometimes words from people that have been there and had/ have your mindset help. My good friend and climbing partner has helped more than he knows still and was also first responder. The night terrors are fading, it was a straight, feet down, eyes open to the bottom fall. I wish I could train hard on my torso to keep some muscle mass but I jacked up my right shoulder feels like a torn rotator cup and fractured my left elbow also. I am finding hobbies but don't want to bail on climbing. I went from thinking Chair peak NE Buttress winter ascent, and ice cliff being mild climbs to hoping that Elinor in the Olympics wont be to much. They are telling me and I am finding that it might be a year until I am able to start easing back into things. Specifically Olyclimber: my fibula is not mending nearly as fast as they want and the mis alignment is driving me crazy in fear of hip foot future pain and complications. Did you have to deal with that or where was your break? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I didn't have too much trouble with my mend. Maybe I'm lucky, but I also didn't charge back like maybe you're trying to do....I don't blame you. For me, currently, I've taken up cycling and I'm full tilt into that. I love it, you can cover so much ground. It doesn't involve the pounding that running can, and with at modern gravel bike you can do some cool stuff on trails and road you can't get to in a car. I used to mountain bike a lot and i love to hit the single track. I'm feeling more fit than ever, and I'm going to do a number of 80-130 mile ride/races that have 6-10K of vert. I'm definitely still carving out the core summer months to be in the alpine up on peaks though. Just not as 5th class focused as before. As to to my accident recover, it took time. There were times where I was just happy to be able to walk...that went on for months and then I discovered I could jog for blocks...then miles. Then I could run, and eventually did a 1/2 marathon comfortably. I think you should definitely have them figure out that fib alignment...if it were me I would have them fix it even if it set me back again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lostbolt Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Thats where I am at with the fib alignment also, just have to convince my doctors. I wish i could say I charged back at it but I haven't. I have been couch bound for a month I get drove to go to pt 2 times a week by my wonderful wife but that is the extent of my activities. I will keep my chin up and thank you for the advice, all of you. I am aiming to being able to walk for a mile and not hurt at 6mo mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Well, that sounds quite rough. I think a year is probably realistic, unfortunately. But at least you have a supportive wife and young kids to keep you entertained during rehab! Hang in there and keep us updated! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Yeah, lots of good advice in here, I can relate to the end of the world feeling from my broken neck and back in 2020 although as things go my recovery was fairly straightforward and quick. Attitude is huge and sometimes all you can control (other than religiously doing your pt). It really helped to just keep focused on getting back to what you love and telling yourself you can over and over. Do whatever you can to get outside, even if it’s just rolling a wheelchair in the yard and build from there . Watch movies and read Alpinist for stoke (a buddy got me a subscription for a gift when I was down). Just keep keeping on and you’ll get there. We are all cheering for ya! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Also I forgot to mention therapy. I saw a therapist after my accident for a while and it helped to process stuff. Totally normal to get some mental health help too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lostbolt Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 On 1/25/2023 at 1:09 PM, OlympicMtnBoy said: Also I forgot to mention therapy. I saw a therapist after my accident for a while and it helped to process stuff. Totally normal to get some mental health help too! Thank you all. I have seen a therapist at least 3 times a year for a good while. For other things, it's nice to have the help navigating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psathyrella Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Well, a week after posting upthread I wrecked my knee coming back from the grocery store (brakes didn't work on one of those little electric scooters), so when all's done it looks like I will be joining you in the full year off club. Although probably with less impressive scars! And my shoulder is now finally back to normal so, while I'm going to have to take up (flat!) kayaking I can also be hate*!@%ing my hangboard. Also PM me if you want to kvetch, my wife at least is probably a little tired of hearing about injuries 😉. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lostbolt Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 On 3/15/2023 at 11:22 AM, psathyrella said: Well, a week after posting upthread I wrecked my knee coming back from the grocery store (brakes didn't work on one of those little electric scooters), so when all's done it looks like I will be joining you in the full year off club. Although probably with less impressive scars! And my shoulder is now finally back to normal so, while I'm going to have to take up (flat!) kayaking I can also be hate*!@%ing my hangboard. Also PM me if you want to kvetch, my wife at least is probably a little tired of hearing about injuries 😉. I thought I responded to you, but now I can't remember what I said. I am glad it wasn't worse for you and that you are getting after it. Take care of it and dont push the recovery to fast, trust your gut if something doesn't feel right. I am not much for phone calls in my current state but have no problem messaging. Don't get bored and discouraged, work out the things you can! I am 2 weeks post op from my 2nd surgery and full of hardware now. The pain is receding fast and I feel the best I have since my accident 3mo ago. It is a challenge like I have never had before. You got this, and don't be shy about reaching out to me if you get bored. I have taken up card games on the computer, and lots of reading. You will find something. I am 39 and this is the first thing I have ever broke that needed medical attention if I can make it you can for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Damn, that is quite the image. Way to keep a positive attitude! And very sorry to hear about your accident @psathyrella. That sucks but it sounds like you are making the best of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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