Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by psathyrella

  1. For the sake of future googlenauts, I thought I'd bump this with info on an alternative approach (not discovered by me) that avoids the swamp creek schwack, and is thus strongly recommended. The attached picture is really all you need, but: continue past swamp creek for a few miles, turning left off trail at a distinct opening/flat spot where the trail abuts the river at a gravel bar, with many very large chainsawed logs strewn about, and a very large boulder on the right (river) side. Head more or less straight up hill, following your nose and sticking to the largest trees, and there's essentially no bushwhacking or scrambling (the red line is approximate). Upon reaching the col you could presumably cut left in order to start at needle, as above ^, but I can't say for sure.
  2. Franklin Falls conditions?

    Cool, thanks for swinging by, everybody. Looks a little soggy for me, still, but maybe next year. p.s. look at us posting photos like it ain't nothing! :heart: admins.
  3. Franklin Falls conditions?

    I wonder if anyone's had a look at Franklin Falls since things cooled off last week?
  4. Looking for a partner for a day or two, after the snowpack finishes settling out around Fri/Sat. Perhaps climb some of the flows near Nisqually, then ski up to 10k or so? Open to similar ideas within a couple hours of Seattle.
  5. for sale Scarpa Rebel Pro 46.5 $125

    Amazing boots, but I'm finally admitting I just didn't get the right size (reviews here and here). They've seen some use (see pictures) but have many, many meters left in 'em.
  6. Graybeard Nordwand, early winter.... this winter.

  7. Looking for climbing partners in chamonix apr 18 to may 13. My main priority on this trip is mileage on mixed terrain, but I can be flexible. I lead about td+/ed-. dkralph aatt gmail
  8. WTB skimo race skis

    Not particular at all about dimensions or condition, but preferably under 900g. thanks.
  9. Canadian Weather forecasts for climbing

    windguru lets you compare three models: 27km GFS, 4km HRW, and 12km NAM. They also do a sane, documented, high resolution altitude extrapolation. The site is ostensibly for wind surfers and their ilk, but with a ($20/year) paid account you can add your own custom spots (for example pigeon-howser col in the link above). But you don't need a paid account to view everybody's spots, so the more of us that join and add mountain-oriented spots, the more useful it becomes. Also, the dude that runs it is responsive and actively developing. mountain-forecast.com seems to pretty much be garbage. Probably the easiest way to see this is to watch how frequently they'll tell you a clear day above 2000m has a difference of only a couple degrees between the high and the low. They also don't seem to have any documentation as to what model they're using and what adjustments they make, which doesn't improve confidence. The best single model hereabouts is probably the uw wrf, which (depending on the resolution) does extend as far as the columbia mountains, but their public interface is comically unusable. It would be easy to code up a more digestible version, but their funders require them to not make anything except those crazy gifs publicly available. Which seems a little weird given that pretty much all of the listed funders are public agencies, sigh.
  10. Mountain weather

    If anyone else is tired of clicking through to all the noaa point forecasts from lost in the mountains, you might like this [github.io].
  11. Mountain weather

    Bump. Added an interface for the darn uw wrf gifs.
  12. Looking for a partner for mon-tues after my buddy leaves. I os about .10- on gear, follow .11- contact: dkralph at the kind of mail with the gmail, seven oh seven 601 seven 3 five 7
  13. PM with brands and colors to claim. p.s. I hope you didn't fall into that hole that it looked like you fell into.
  14. As seen here. Nine issues of (very) British hilarity. It's like reading twenty-year-old Economists about the mountains. $45, plus shipping or pick up in Seattle. I thought the best bits were: - firsthand account of first alpine-style ascent of cerro chalten - *#*#ing hilarious account of early British repeat of tis-sa-sack (sp?) - much bolt-related hand-wringery - wildly trashy/gossipy/implausible beckey profile - mike bearzi (ffa of cerro torre) defends[ish] maestri - many many many pages about whether tomo cesen did or tomo cesen didn't
  15. Local pickup at SBP or South Lake Union only, sorry.
  16. I've probably put 20 days on them, but there's no structural problems whatsoever. I'm just finally admitting that they do not fit my feet. Crampon welts are in perfect shape and soles have many, many years left. The small velcro patches you can see on the back allow you to use trail running style gaiters, but they're easy to just pull off if you don't like 'em. And sorry, I'm not quite masochistic enough to use the photo uploader, so you'll have to make do with a link to MP.
  17. Torment-Forbidden Traverse

    And a little reciprocity... Tippy top of Torment: Coming up on Columbia crest: Canonical tilted forbidden: Thy name is desire:
  18. Nesakwatch!

    Looking for a partner for the Rexford group this weekend. I'm most interested in the SW ridge of N spire, or if the snow's come off the N sides, the enchainment. Duncan (6017357 in the area code of seven oh seven)
  19. Mountain weather

    Yeah, you can totally customize the locations. You'll just need to clone the repository so you can run it on your local machine, and then edit the text file with the location list. This'll hopefully only involve a little bit of googling if you haven't done that kind of thing before.
  20. please see pictures on MP cross post: http://mountainproject.com/v/splitboard-elios-hirundos-snow-sundries/109630138 full splitboard setup: gnu board, skins, bindings, crampons $600 petzl hirundos (new, but see caveat) $50 petzl elios $30 ski/snowboard pants (men's medium) $25 OR Crocodile gaiters (XL) $25
  21. New to cascades, need partners

    Hey folks, Been in Seattle a couple of months, and I need some more cragging and mountain partners. I lead 5.9 trad, am well versed in glacier travel, and I'm competent on moderate ice. I love cragging, but am mainly motivated by the alpine. I mostly work weekdays, but can easily swap out weekends for weekdays when the weather gods demand. PM me, or use dkralph at the googly-type mail. Duncan
  22. Petz sumtec pick loosening

    I've been using a sumtec for vertical ice and finding that ten or twenty placements is enough to loosen the pick enough that it's pretty much unusable even if I've just cranked the screw pretty tight. I need to buy some loctite which will help some, but I wonder if anyone else has had this problem? The attachment mechanism is hard to describe -- three rounded bumps hold the pick to the head -- but in all honesty it seems a bit jenky for this sort of thing.
  23. Petz sumtec pick loosening

    Ok, thanks for the suggestion. The washer that's in there is just textured with no springiness, so I'll try a lock washer as well.