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Ascenders Petzl v Jumar v Ushba


COL._Von_Spanker

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I'm thinkin USHBA for sure, especially for icy, muddy or wet ropes. After receiving a new basic I am planning on retiring my 24 year old jumars for a pair of their full on ascenders. The design rocks, their light & strong but to be fair I haven't tested it outside the house yet.

 

Besides I get warm & fuzzy thinking about helping the russian economy...not really.

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I recently upgraded my old Jumars with Petzl's. They are both good...I can't tell much of a difference on the rope. You will get used to whatever you have. I think the Petzl's may be a bit lighter though, and the teeth are angled downward which is supposed to chew up the rope less.

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I have only owned the older petzl ascenders but have played around with the other models.

 

I found the ushba ascenders difficult to take on and off the rope quickly. Not a big deal if using it for fixed lines but for cleaning traversing pitches it could be real pain. These are the weakest of all the ascenders.

 

The SMC ones are heavier than the petzl but aren't any stronger. I dont like the trigger mechanism. I find it difficult to disengage due to my short fingers. This isn't a problem for me with the petzls. Jumars are very similar to the SMC ascender

 

Yates also makes ascenders. But like all other yates products they are really bulky and heavy and are more geared towards rescue use. They are the strongest ascenders on the market though. Twice as strong as the ushba.

 

A disadvantage of the new petzl ascenders is the top clip in hole. there used to be two holes but the newer model only has one. When a carabiner is clipped through this hole (added safety for traversing) it creates alot of friction and makes it hard to slide the ascender up or down the rope. Also if using the ascender for some methods of hauling, the ascender must be waited and the second hole was great for this. The older ascenders also had an extendable trigger which made it easier to use with gloves.

 

If you could find a pair of older petzl ascenders that are in good shape that is what i would recommend

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So lets look at a the facts Petzl Vs CMI

Petzl

Stamp aluminum body

Strength 18kn

Weight 196g (7oz)

Rope Ø 8mm-13mm

CMI

Extruded and machined aluminum body

Strength 20.4kn (rope failure…the actual strength was 7800lb (34.6kn))

Weight 270g (9.5oz)

Rope Ø 7.5mm-16mm

My question will be if 2.5 oz worth the piece of mind for a bomber ascender that have all the options of clipping…in my book it dose

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dirtwigle said:

None. If they have teeth like the petzl ascention they are very dangerous for use as a self belay. The teeth on the petzls are reported to sever a rope at around a thousand pounds of force.

 

Funny thing is, Petzl actually recommends them for this use! I'd like to see you generate 1000lbs of force in a factor .1 factor fall, that might be typical on tr. rolleyes.gif RTFM!

 

Lead self belay would be a totally different matter of course.

 

I use the Petzl ascension as a tr self belay from time to time. It works well. Just be sure to clip in at the top hole as shown in the manual, or else it don't feed good, and it could pop eek.gif off!

 

fern said:Petzls too big for my little girly hands frown.gif . I like yoomars.

 

Joomars too wee for my big manly hands! hahaha.gif

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