COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 13, 2003 Posted February 13, 2003 So what's the best ascender and why? Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 13, 2003 Posted February 13, 2003 I'm thinkin USHBA for sure, especially for icy, muddy or wet ropes. After receiving a new basic I am planning on retiring my 24 year old jumars for a pair of their full on ascenders. The design rocks, their light & strong but to be fair I haven't tested it outside the house yet. Besides I get warm & fuzzy thinking about helping the russian economy...not really. Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 14, 2003 Author Posted February 14, 2003 How do you think they work for full on aid jugging? Quote
snoboy Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 One thing I know: Petzl rock if you got big hands. I have tried Jumars, and the cam jams against the top of my hand, making the rope feed badly. That's before I even put gloves on. Quote
Lambone Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 I recently upgraded my old Jumars with Petzl's. They are both good...I can't tell much of a difference on the rope. You will get used to whatever you have. I think the Petzl's may be a bit lighter though, and the teeth are angled downward which is supposed to chew up the rope less. Quote
fern Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 USHBAs have a bit of wasted movement because they turn 90degrees to cam, hard to explain and NBD really. Petzls too big for my little girly hands . I like yoomars. Quote
fleblebleb Posted February 15, 2003 Posted February 15, 2003 Any opinions on what ascender might work well for self-belayed top-roping? Quote
IceIceBaby Posted February 15, 2003 Posted February 15, 2003 For a truly aid ascender hands down is the CMI Ultrascender the Petzl is too fickle and the Ushba will drop u 5 cm every stroke u might want to look at the Frog sys (popular with cavers) using one ascender and the Petzl croll for pure aid jugging also the GriGri is invaluable to the Aid climber Quote
Wallstein Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 I have only owned the older petzl ascenders but have played around with the other models. I found the ushba ascenders difficult to take on and off the rope quickly. Not a big deal if using it for fixed lines but for cleaning traversing pitches it could be real pain. These are the weakest of all the ascenders. The SMC ones are heavier than the petzl but aren't any stronger. I dont like the trigger mechanism. I find it difficult to disengage due to my short fingers. This isn't a problem for me with the petzls. Jumars are very similar to the SMC ascender Yates also makes ascenders. But like all other yates products they are really bulky and heavy and are more geared towards rescue use. They are the strongest ascenders on the market though. Twice as strong as the ushba. A disadvantage of the new petzl ascenders is the top clip in hole. there used to be two holes but the newer model only has one. When a carabiner is clipped through this hole (added safety for traversing) it creates alot of friction and makes it hard to slide the ascender up or down the rope. Also if using the ascender for some methods of hauling, the ascender must be waited and the second hole was great for this. The older ascenders also had an extendable trigger which made it easier to use with gloves. If you could find a pair of older petzl ascenders that are in good shape that is what i would recommend Quote
IceIceBaby Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 So lets look at a the facts Petzl Vs CMI Petzl Stamp aluminum body Strength 18kn Weight 196g (7oz) Rope Ø 8mm-13mm CMI Extruded and machined aluminum body Strength 20.4kn (rope failure…the actual strength was 7800lb (34.6kn)) Weight 270g (9.5oz) Rope Ø 7.5mm-16mm My question will be if 2.5 oz worth the piece of mind for a bomber ascender that have all the options of clipping…in my book it dose Quote
mbcracken Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 Did a little google search and found this page. More info then you can shake a stick at... Asender Info -Mike Quote
dirtwigle Posted February 17, 2003 Posted February 17, 2003 None. If they have teeth like the petzl ascention they are very dangerous for use as a self belay. The teeth on the petzls are reported to sever a rope at around a thousand pounds of force. Quote
dirtwigle Posted February 17, 2003 Posted February 17, 2003 fleblebleb said: Any opinions on what ascender might work well for self-belayed top-roping? Refer to previous post. Quote
snoboy Posted February 17, 2003 Posted February 17, 2003 dirtwigle said: None. If they have teeth like the petzl ascention they are very dangerous for use as a self belay. The teeth on the petzls are reported to sever a rope at around a thousand pounds of force. Funny thing is, Petzl actually recommends them for this use! I'd like to see you generate 1000lbs of force in a factor .1 factor fall, that might be typical on tr. RTFM! Lead self belay would be a totally different matter of course. I use the Petzl ascension as a tr self belay from time to time. It works well. Just be sure to clip in at the top hole as shown in the manual, or else it don't feed good, and it could pop off! fern said:Petzls too big for my little girly hands . I like yoomars. Joomars too wee for my big manly hands! Quote
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