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Trip: Mt. Hood - Arachnophobia Direct

Trip Date: 01/25/2022

Trip Report:

@Michael Telstad and I did Arachnophobia Direct on the Black Spider Wall. In fat (i.e. no mixed) conditions, we found it to be a very easy, enjoyable romp. There was a lot of sustained AI2-3 with some neve, snice, and snow mixed in. We found the ice in the upper half of the route to be a little worse for the wear due to all the sun and warm temps recently but still secure for climbing, just worthless for screws.

Incredibly, almost nothing fell on us the entire time we were on the wall. We credit this to good luck, three weeks of high pressure leading up, and moderate temps with a nice breeze. It is definitely an intimidating face, but the climbing is pretty chill in the current conditions.

https://climberkyle.com/2022/01/25/mt-hood-arachnophobia-direct-ai3/

Thanks to @wayne and Matt Z for the beta!

original_5e2922f9-be1e-441f-bdd6-df8a95e80214_PXL_20220125_152723508.jpg.084b371206760486e8cf644d55828910.jpgoriginal_17533176-a4c0-402c-899a-e3e00cd2acf8_PXL_20220125_154923579.jpg.e13bd3b4dc8a5bace04596eb8ba3fd63.jpgPXL_20220125_155855536.jpg.9eeb78d52225fdb2b61d78b104540a75.jpgoriginal_09107559-df84-4ad3-b67a-f3fcaeabc7ee_PXL_20220125_172050200.jpg.f31df3caa7789b21accfeab354d20384.jpg

Gear Notes:
10 screws. Definitely not use for the 22cm and should have brought another stubby. Brought rock gear but place none. Single 60m rope.

Approach Notes:
Crampons all the way from the Timberline parking lot. Crossed the White River Glacier Canyon around 8600 ft to 9k. Definitely not worth bringing skis in the current condition, mega icy.
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