Alpineclmbr Posted July 31, 2021 Posted July 31, 2021 Hello all! My buddy and I have crevasse rescue skills and feel comfortable on most snow/ice terrain (up until actual sustained ice climbing). We are wanting to do a route on one of the major peaks (Adams, Shasta, Hood, Baker, Rainier) during mid September, anybody have route suggestions? Thanks! Quote
bedellympian Posted July 31, 2021 Posted July 31, 2021 Some other people may have something different to say, but I would stay off of those peaks in September. The rock is bad and will be exposed, and the crevasses will be open. If you will be on a trip and don't want to climb something more technical, then go do a 3rd/4th class ridge scramble in the N Cascades. If you want to climb a glacier route plan a trip for May/June. Quote
JasonG Posted August 1, 2021 Posted August 1, 2021 I'm with @bedellympian- zero routes on the volcanoes are a good idea in mid-September, esp. this year. Most glaciated routes, even on lower peaks, won't be great either. That said, Eldorado and the Sulphide on Shuksan might fit the glaciated bill for you (and be in not dangerous shape). Or scramble something like Mt. Stuart for the big mountain feel? 1 Quote
genepires Posted August 2, 2021 Posted August 2, 2021 coleman deming route on baker may be ok to try. evidently the most schrund/crevasse that formed wall to wall and prevented all access last year has not formed. hustle past the hanging fire on colfax pk. expect much of winter snow to be gone and be walking on bare glacier ice, especially on the deming part (roman wall) of the route. or dirty trail climb up st helens plus what Jason said. Quote
genepires Posted August 2, 2021 Posted August 2, 2021 add that is you are going bare glacier ice climbing, do not assume that self arrest is an option. if it is steeep enough that a slip will result in sliding, do running belays. that means carrying several ice screws. 1 Quote
Flyboys-on-InfiniteBliss Posted September 23, 2021 Posted September 23, 2021 Can confirm what JasonG stated just did shucksan via sulfide and Stewart via West ridge, conditions were great for both! Quote
DPS Posted September 24, 2021 Posted September 24, 2021 On 9/23/2021 at 11:24 AM, Flyboys-on-InfiniteBliss said: Can confirm what JasonG stated just did shucksan via sulfide and Stewart via West ridge, conditions were great for both! Both are late season classics! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.