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Alpineclmbr

September Glacier Routes

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Hello all!

My buddy and I have crevasse rescue skills and feel comfortable on most snow/ice terrain (up until actual sustained ice climbing). We are wanting to do a route on one of the major peaks (Adams, Shasta, Hood, Baker, Rainier) during mid September, anybody have route suggestions? Thanks!

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Some other people may have something different to say, but I would stay off of those peaks in September. The rock is bad and will be exposed, and the crevasses will be open.

If you will be on a trip and don't want to climb something more technical, then go do a 3rd/4th class ridge scramble in the N Cascades. If you want to climb a glacier route plan a trip for May/June.

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I'm with @bedellympian- zero routes on the volcanoes are a good idea in mid-September, esp. this year.  Most glaciated routes, even on lower peaks, won't be great either. 

That said, Eldorado and the Sulphide on Shuksan might fit the glaciated bill for you (and be in not dangerous shape).  Or scramble something like Mt. Stuart for the big mountain feel?

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coleman deming route on baker may be ok to try.  evidently the most schrund/crevasse that formed wall to wall and prevented all access last year has not formed.   hustle past the hanging fire on colfax pk.  expect much of winter snow to be gone and be walking on bare glacier ice, especially on the deming part (roman wall) of the route.

or dirty trail climb up st helens

plus what Jason said.

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add that is you are going bare glacier ice climbing, do not assume that self arrest is an option.   if it is steeep enough that a slip will result in sliding, do running belays.  that means carrying several ice screws.

 

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On 9/23/2021 at 11:24 AM, Flyboys-on-InfiniteBliss said:

Can confirm what JasonG stated just did shucksan via sulfide and Stewart via West ridge, conditions were great for both!

Both are late season classics!

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