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Kyle M

[TR] Darrington - Squire Creek Wall -> Buckeye -> Whitehorse 06/19/2021

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Trip: Darrington - Squire Creek Wall -> Buckeye -> Whitehorse

Trip Date: 06/19/2021

Trip Report:

@jenny.abegg and I did a linkup of Skeena26 on Squire Creek Wall, Buckeye Peak, and Whitehorse. It was a full value 16 hour day, even with nearly everything going "right". Super fun, if you don't mind some jungling and adventure climbing.

The MP approach beta for Skeena26 is spot on. We did not find the bolts until the top of P3, and from there on it was still hard to follow the route as the bolts hide in the shade. The upper section of the buttress above the route is pretty blue collar, as is the top of Squire Creek Wall. We were happy to be on snow climbing up to Buckeye Peak.

original_0744d243-4c4a-4bde-b54d-f464eaaa99fd_IMG_20210619_084248012_HDR.thumb.jpg.fe5870dc515d12316383b6ecdb6f9c4b.jpg

The ridge heading north from Buckeye was very aesthetic, featuring mid fifth class climbing over steep gendarmes with wild exposure. We did a few pitches and a few rappels and then ended up at the SE Ridge of Whitehorse.

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The SE Ridge definitely felt a bit fifth class to us for a few hundred feet, but we were definitely pretty tired. It is "Beckey 4th class" after all. The rock is ok.

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Rappel over the bergschrund, then long hike out.

https://climberkyle.com/2021/06/19/the-darrington-rodeo/

D-Town is cool! Skeena26 is definitely worth checking out!

Gear Notes:
Single 60 m rope was enough. A few moderate sized cams, lots of long runners.

Approach Notes:
About 6-8 minutes after the official Squire Creek Trail sign, there is a white rock cairn. This marks the trail, which leads down to Squire Creek. Found a log crossing just downstream. Then hike up the trail on the other side.
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Holy cannoli!  This is an epic trip you two!  Bravo.  Takes creativity and vision to dream this one up.  Probably not many people understand exactly how crazy hardcore this is.  Next level.  Chapeau.

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impressive and Very cool! I’m interested in hearing more about your decent. How did you get off the top of Whitehorse and end up back at the squire creek TH?

 

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Damn that looks fun, it’s going on the list. Thanks for sharing the stoke!

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