ScaredSilly Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) Sounds like a fall just above Thumb Rock. https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/search-underway-for-a-climber-missing-on-librty-ridge.htm https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/liberty-ridge-search-confirms-skier-fatality.htm Edited June 30, 2020 by ScaredSilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Sad news.Ā A bad week on Rainier it sounds like, with the two other searches underway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 Very sad to see another young person passing.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 Whoever called the LR the "classic climb" was wrong. I've climbed this ridgeĀ twice and each time my partner or I wereĀ an inch away from being hit by a flying rock.Ā The PR is a much better andĀ safer objective. There is nothing aesthetic about LR either.Ā The bottom line, the LR is a boring dangerous place.Ā Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 Oleg, I was underwhelmed by the route also. We dodged large falling rocks from the toe (5th class climbing on an un-mortared pile of bricks) to Thumb Rock. I wonder, however, if PR was a 50 Classic Climb if there would be more accidents on that route.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmfoerster Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Its like every year I have a reason to put LR on the back burner. I appreciate the honest sentiment OlegV and DPS.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 I think LR is very condition dependent.Ā My experience was from a long time ago, but we found excellent conditions in early June of 2002.Ā It was quite cold and calm though.Ā That said, I was almost taken out by a bowling ball around the black pyramid!Ā However, I really liked the route and thought it well worth the 50 classic designation.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 (edited) One needs put a few things in perspective about the classic routes such LR. If one thinks about the FA it was done in August. Ā 50Ā Classics was written in the late 70s.Ā Since then anthropomorphic climate change has greatly affectedĀ many of theseĀ routes. Ā InĀ the late 80s when I did LRĀ people regularly did the route through July. Rarely is that the case now. What makes LR a classic over PR? That is pretty simple. LR has a bit of everything ... glacier travel, a climb to a high camp in a great position, long sectionsĀ of exposed climbing that does not end until right at the summit. PR has little of that, a long hike to a high camp,Ā at best 2000' of climbing, then a mostly leisurely 2000'Ā stroll to the summit.Ā Ā Ā Edited July 1, 2020 by ScaredSilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 SS. you make a good point. The routes in 50 Classics are not always the most difficult or most aesthetic, some are of a moreĀ historical significance.Ā For example, is the WR the best route on Forbidden? Many would argue NW Arete is a much better route, however, WR hasĀ more history. I think as a young andĀ inexperiencedĀ climber I had unrealistic expectations for LR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 On 6/30/2020 at 3:01 PM, DPS said: Oleg, I was underwhelmed by the route also. We dodged large falling rocks from the toe (5th class climbing on an un-mortared pile of bricks) to Thumb Rock. I wonder, however, if PR was a 50 Classic Climb if there would be more accidents on that route.Ā Dan, your LR experience sounds classic - Thumb Rock is falling apart and scarring people. I suspect some of thisĀ rock derbies turn intoĀ a meteor shower flying down the first pitch of the LR. I've never had any problems with the rockĀ fall ABOVE Thumb Rock, althoughĀ people didĀ get hit by the avalanches there.Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 8 hours ago, DPS said: SS. you make a good point. The routes in 50 Classics are not always the most difficult or most aesthetic, some are of a moreĀ historical significance.Ā For example, is the WR the best route on Forbidden? Many would argue NW Arete is a much better route, however, WR hasĀ more history. I think as a young andĀ inexperiencedĀ climber I had unrealistic expectations for LR. Getting on the other side of Forbidden is a real pain though.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 17 hours ago, ScaredSilly said: One needs put a few things in perspective about the classic routes such LR. If one thinks about the FA it was done in August. Ā 50Ā Classics was written in the late 70s.Ā Since then anthropomorphic climate change has greatly affectedĀ many of theseĀ routes. Ā InĀ the late 80s when I did LRĀ people regularly did the route through July. Rarely is that the case now. What makes LR a classic over PR? That is pretty simple. LR has a bit of everything ... glacier travel, a climb to a high camp in a great position, long sectionsĀ of exposed climbing that does not end until right at the summit. PR has little of that, a long hike to a high camp,Ā at best 2000' of climbing, then a mostly leisurely 2000'Ā stroll to the summit.Ā Ā Ā I actually liked the PR better because of its remoteness and variety ofĀ the terrains Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 I've attempted PR a four times, but various factors skunked each attempt. Maybe next years.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 15 minutes ago, DPS said: I've attempted PR a four times, but various factors skunked each attempt. Maybe next years.Ā We should team up Dan! I always wanted to do a 5.8 rock variation. The climb of the veteransĀ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 On 6/30/2020 at 2:15 PM, OlegV said: Whoever called the LR the "classic climb" was wrong. I've climbed this ridgeĀ twice and each time my partner or I wereĀ an inch away from being hit by a flying rock.Ā The PR is a much better andĀ safer objective. There is nothing aesthetic about LR either.Ā The bottom line, the LR is a boring dangerous place.Ā Ā Keep in mind ... 30 ~ 40 years ago, Lib Ridge, Willis Wall and the rest of the north side of Rainier was a bit different animalĀ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 5 minutes ago, wdietsch said: Keep in mind ... 30 ~ 40 years ago, Lib Ridge, Willis Wall and the rest of the north side of Rainier was a bit different animalĀ we are not that old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, OlegV said: we are not that old touche' ... dig the Rackliff woodcut Avatar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 Sounds good Oleg, maybe next year! 2 hours ago, OlegV said: We should team up Dan! I always wanted to do a 5.8 rock variation. The climb of the veteransĀ Let's do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 3 hours ago, OlegV said: We should team up Dan! I always wanted to do a 5.8 rock variation. The climb of the veteransĀ Let me know @OlegV and @DPS!Ā It is on my list.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 If I climb PRĀ I will definitely post here.Ā Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 1 hour ago, JasonG said: Let me know @OlegV and @DPS!Ā It is on my list.... Hey Jason, it brings up some great memories from ourĀ 2004 winter ascent of Gibbs Ledges! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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