ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

[Peter Way]

Still plenty of ice on the Eliot.   2 more lines have formed up right next to the Cooper 30, and some mixed as well.

Had fun up there today.

[ggres335]

Any info on Chair Peak or Guyes S.W. Gully? Thinking about a run over this week if Avy conditions aren't too rough.

Went up Icicle Creek yesterday. Ice is melting alot during the day, but another deep freeze cycle may bring out the gully across the road from the "Icicle Creek W. of Snow Lk" sign pullout. Hubba Hubba looked thinnish but innish from the road. Going to try to give it a go this week.

[aikidjoe]

Anyone been to banks lake? Much appreciated!

[specialforest]

Hubba Hubba as of 02/18. Climbed central (left on the photo) and right (central on the photo) flows. Next time I'd bring 70m rope or 2x60m

The approach was exhausting due to fresh snow even in snowshoes.

Edited February 19, 2019 by specialforest

[mthorman]

7 hours ago, aikidjoe said:

Anyone been to banks lake? Much appreciated!

I had friends out there over the weekend.  They said many routes were in and some even fat.

[cdgclimbs]

I'm newer to the area and am still working up to being able to lead on ice.  Anyone know of any spot where I can TR and practice screw placement that are in condition right now?

[specialforest]

Full house at Franklin Falls today. At least 5 lines are clammable, but getting beaten. Come early.

Edited February 25, 2019 by specialforest

[ggres335]

Reports in that Banks Lake is in. Zenith is looking fat. I'll try to get out there this week and snag some shots.

[montypiton]

Best ice at Banks Lake in years.  Absent Minded Professor had two parties yesterday - haven't seen this climb form in about 15 years.  Zenith is fat, Emerald is fat, Cable is fat, H2O2 looks good.  Not much hanging above the punchbowl?!?  Now just think cold thoughts...

[YakCLimber78]

Went up and TR'd Clear Creek Falls on the White Pass corridor. Solid ice, but a bit chandeliered and overhanging in places. Saw evidence that another party had been up there.  

[Peter Way]

"Mikey's Gully" thin, but in.     "Mikey Likes It" not quite touching down.    We didn't look at Narada Falls.

[ggres335]

Where is this "gully"? Rainier area?

[Peter Way]

On 3/4/2019 at 5:53 PM, ggres335 said:

Where is this "gully"? Rainier area?

Nisqually bridge.  Half way between Longmier and Paradise.     We also climbed 2 lines right at the start of road to Ricksecker Point.    One was thin and un-protectable the other fat and vertical at the top.    You have to rap in and climb out.   Park where the road is closed and rap over the edge right there.

[num1mc]

On 3/4/2019 at 5:17 PM, Peter Way said:

"Mikey's Gully" thin, but in.     "Mikey Likes It" not quite touching down.    We didn't look at Narada Falls.

Never really knew what we climbed, but looking at the photo, that is what John Tarver, myself and Russel Erikson climbed back on Saturday January 12, 1980.   We were young, I was the old guy at 19, and John and Russ were 18.

 

And we had a great time in the Longmire restaurant before the climb listening to a coked up Dr Elliot Openheim MD spew and spray about a whole variety of climbing stuff to his unfortunate climbing and breakfast partner.

 

And no, I'm not scared of Elliot reading this and suing me for slander for refering to him as likely being coked up.  A quick google search will tell anybody all they need to know about this former member of the Seattle climbing community.