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curtveld

first ascent [TR] Three O Clock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour 07/20/2018

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Trip: Three O Clock Rock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour

Trip Date: 07/20/2018

Trip Report:

Hey, a quick update about some new options up at 3 O’Clock Rock...for those that care. Year after year, it seems that over 95% of Washington climbers find zero appeal in hiking to easy slab climbs. But that just keeps the quiet experience for the dedicated regulars and newcomers. 

Andy and I added an easy (~5.3) slab climb a bit right of Silent Running that features two short pitches. Road to Nowhere has proven a fun outing for novice slab climbers. If you want more challenge, try it hands free (though the FHFA has already been done). You will need 5 draws and one 70 m rope to get up and down.

If you’re up for a more difficult experience and/or other parties are lined up for Silent Running, continue another 4 pitches up Mystery Tour, which wanders to the right-hand edge of the North Buttress (topo below). The second pitch of Mystery Tour (5.9+) is the standout, featuring 58 m of very sustained slab climbing. From there, continue up the rounded buttress at 5.8 and then a shorter pitch that ties into Silent Running. More beta and gear details are below. Currently, the easiest descent is down Silent Running, though we hope to have a separate rappel route tuned up in the near future.

Leah on Road to Nowhere, pitch 1

5b831c42da575_LeahRTN26-16.thumb.JPG.db07231f1dafc28105134b83f2aced5c.JPG

Matt approaching the rounded buttress on pitch 3 of Mystery Tour. Climbers below and left are one pitch up Road to Nowhere

5b831c50af174_MysteryTour7-18.thumb.jpg.d7e0a78f852c279a43a5512ad7f883e4.jpg

Route topo

5b831c2dbc58a_MysteryTour7-18.thumb.jpeg.c1f21d611a13e94b9b1094bb4c709c37.jpeg

Gear Notes: For Mystery Tour, you'll want double 60s, a single set of cams to 2" and ~14 draws.  About 80% of pro is bolts.

Approach Notes:
FS road #2060 to Eight-mile trailhead, then 45 minutes of easy uphill (standard 3 O Clock Rock approach)

Edited by curtveld
its never right the first try....
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Fun route!  Pitch 4 is classic darrington, and wonderfully sustained.  Thanks for all the effort putting this up!

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