first ascent [TR] Three O Clock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour 07/20/2018

[curtveld]

Trip: Three O Clock Rock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour

Trip Date: 07/20/2018

Trip Report:

Hey, a quick update about some new options up at 3 O’Clock Rock...for those that care. Year after year, it seems that over 95% of Washington climbers find zero appeal in hiking to easy slab climbs. But that just keeps the quiet experience for the dedicated regulars and newcomers. 

Andy and I added an easy (~5.3) slab climb a bit right of Silent Running that features two short pitches. Road to Nowhere has proven a fun outing for novice slab climbers. If you want more challenge, try it hands free (though the FHFA has already been done). You will need 5 draws and one 70 m rope to get up and down.

If you’re up for a more difficult experience and/or other parties are lined up for Silent Running, continue another 4 pitches up Mystery Tour, which wanders to the right-hand edge of the North Buttress (topo below). The second pitch of Mystery Tour (5.9+) is the standout, featuring 58 m of very sustained slab climbing. From there, continue up the rounded buttress at 5.8 and then a shorter pitch that ties into Silent Running. More beta and gear details are below. Currently, the easiest descent is down Silent Running, though we hope to have a separate rappel route tuned up in the near future.

Leah on Road to Nowhere, pitch 1

Matt approaching the rounded buttress on pitch 3 of Mystery Tour. Climbers below and left are one pitch up Road to Nowhere

Route topo

Gear Notes: For Mystery Tour, you'll want double 60s, a single set of cams to 2" and ~14 draws.  About 80% of pro is bolts.

Approach Notes:
FS road #2060 to Eight-mile trailhead, then 45 minutes of easy uphill (standard 3 O Clock Rock approach)

Edited August 27, 2018 by curtveld
its never right the first try....

[BrettS]

Fun route!  Pitch 4 is classic darrington, and wonderfully sustained.  Thanks for all the effort putting this up!

[Trent]

Awesome! Thanks for the new route, will have to give it a go!

[mountainsloth]

Woot! 

[Clayton Vermulm]

Love Three O' Clock! Thanks for putting up a new route! I'm looking forward to trying it out this summer. 

 

[tanstaafl]

Thanks Curt and Otto for a great day out on Friday; this is a fun route and if you still have an appetite for slab when you're done, you can climb the top 2 pitches of Silent Running as a bonus,  thus possibly making you late enough getting home that your spouse will start to wonder what the devil happened to you.

[Otto]

Indeed, thanks Curt for the Tour! Had a fun time climbing this with you and tanstaafl.

[curtveld]

On 9/7/2021 at 5:55 AM, tanstaafl said:

....making you late enough getting home that your spouse will start to wonder what the devil happened to you.

I'm sure all was forgiven when you explained that we had just completed the first documented ascent of the Road to Silent Bonus Tour!! 

[Otto]

Yes, it's always cool to do that bonus pitch of Silent Running. I've led it a couple of times, it was so fun to follow you up it. But, the name, 'Road to Silent Bonus Tour'? Hmm...

[curtveld]

7 hours ago, Otto said:

But, the name, 'Road to Silent Bonus Tour'? Hmm...

OK...maybe not. But there is something fun about arriving at a familiar spot via a different route. Regardless, it was great to get out and make that connection with you and tanstaafl!