Tom MacD Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 (edited) First time headed to the Cascades, and looking for some honest and helpful advice on suggested routes for a father (me) and son (aged 16) three week trip into the N Cascades. We are both capable rock climbers (I comfortably lead trad up to 5.10a, have lots of anchor building and gear placing experience, and we have climbed long multi-pitch sport routes together) but are inexperienced in the alpine environment (no glacier or crevasse experience). The three weeks will be broken up with a wedding, family visit in Seattle, and two college tours, so I'm looking for suggestions that include moderate hikes in and camping from anywhere from 2 to four nights in one spot (or two). A little more info:I do NOT want suggestions that include:• glacier travel (I want no possibility of crevasse falls - we do not have the sufficient skills and experience for successful self-rescue)• mega-hikes in and out (I'm 52 and don't think I can get away with making my son carry ALL of the heavy stuff - but he will, of course, get the watermelon hidden in the pack)• routes with notoriously loose rock or other objective hazards (while I have at times wanted to kill my son, I think it best to not do so, and I don't want to be featured in the next ANAM)• routes that are only hikes up a path (I'd like some class 4 and low class 5 roped climbing)I DO hope to get suggestions that include:• beautiful campsites - especially sites that allow multiple climbing objectives from one campsite• moderate to easy climbing routes with fantastic summit views• fairly straightforward route finding, especially on the descents• sound rock with good pro (I'm fine with run-outs on low class 5)I think you all get the idea (and I apologize if this is a redundant post, but I haven't seen a recent post similar to this in the forums).And yes, I have all three of Fred's CAG books and have spent too many hours (according to my wife) pouring thru them. My thoughts right now (having never set foot in the Cascades), include the list below - please add comments and advice on them if you wish. I'd like to know if any of these are in fact much more difficult or loose or confusing on the descent, etc., than Fred's books indicate. Also, I have heard from many sources that Fred's approach info is notoriously difficult, so any tips on best approaches would be most appreciated. Here's what I was considering:• Mt. Adams South Spur or South Chute (will pass by that way to visit family - not sure if we want the big slog, though)• Guye's South Rib• The Chair, The Tooth and Mt. Bryant - the easy routes• Colchuck Lake for: Colchuck Balanced Rock N Face, Jabberwocky?, Dragontail's W Route from Colchuck Col or Colchuck Buttress or E Face of the NE Towers, Colchuck Peak's N Buttress or NE Face• Ingalls Lake for: Easy routes on Ingalls N and E Peaks, Mt. Stuart's W Ridge• Blanca Lake for: Columbia's NE Face or S Ridge, Kyes Peak's S Ridge, maybe also Monte Cristo's SE Ridge• Sloan Peak's N Ridge or SW Face (but I suspect this climb may be more committing than we should try to bite off???)• Boston Basin for: Mt. Torment's S Ridge or SE Face, Forbidden's W Ridge, Sharkfin Tower's SE Ridge• Wing Lake for: Black Peak's E Buttress or S Route or NE Ridge, Corteo Peak's E Face• Twin Sisters: N Twin's W Ridge and S Twin's W Ridge (heading to Vancouver to visit UBC, so it's on the way)• Reynold's Peak's NE Face or NE Ridge along with Rennie Peak's E Ridge• Gilbert Mtn's E or N Ridge and Crescent Peak's N Ridge• Kangaroo Temple's N Face or NE Face and Little Finger's N or S Faces• The "easy" routes on Early Winter Spires, Liberty Bell, Lexington and Concord (no need to list those)I realize this is an enormous request for info - so thanks in advance. Again, I have never been to the Cascades, so any advice is welcome. Oh - I should have added that we will arrive in Seattle on May 27 and leave from Seattle on June 18 - so please keep that in mind regarding advice on expected snow and ice conditions on approaches and the routes. Obviously, I don't have any real perspective on how realistic these routes may or may not be given expected snow conditions for this time of year. Also, it is worth noting that my son has ZERO crampon and ice axe and self-arrest experience, and my experience level there would be honestly classified as beginner (I live in Mexico, after all, and we don't get much snow and ice down here!). I am also wide open to recommendations on guides who could give us a day of instruction on snow and ice travel (glaciers too) if you think that essential prior to trying to get out there so early in the season. Thanks. Edited May 9, 2018 by Tom MacD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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