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Josh Lewis

Triple Couloirs, Alpine Ice, or something fun

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The weather looks pretty good later this week and early next week. Friday looks so so as well as Sunday, but the rest looks great. I'm giving a few days to let the avalanche danger drop to moderate which will happen by Wednesday above tree line. I imagine it would be great by Friday. Saturday of course being the golden day. I'm open until February 2nd.

 

Objectives: Triple Couloirs, Chair Peak, Colfax via a moderate ice route, Big Four or other alpine projects. Ski trips also interest me. I'm training for the West Ridge of Mount Hunter in Alaska as well as Denali.

 

Climbing resume: Alpamayo (19511', WI3), Torment Forbidden Traverse, Burgundy Spire (5.8), Johannesburg, Ptarmigan Traverse, NE Buttress Goode (free soloed), Jack Mountain, Baker Seracs, Whitehorse, Inspiration Traverse, Hard Mox, Rainier(3 times) and many more.

 

I've climbed up to WI4, can lead on rock, and have a small amount of experience leading on ice. I'm comfortable climbing steep snow unroped (albeit if dangerous I take the proper precautions). I know how to weave around cornices, navigate white outs, quit when it's too dangerous, rescue someone from a crevasse, and use an avalanche beacon.

 

Lately I've been working on physical conditioning such as running 3-5 miles multiple times a week, lifting weights/pushups, and focusing on food that would boost performance. Regarding gear aside from having a full rack of ice screws, ice climbing crampons, ect, I am close to having the lightest alpine setup possible. My point is that I'll be able to cruise through dangerous terrain faster and break trail more often. The more alpine fun, the better.

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My guess, crap. TC seems to form later each year, now it seems to be best late March and April.

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I think it needs some melt / freeze to come in good for climbing that's why spring tends to be the season to climb it.

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The Triple Couloirs are in rough shape right now. Aside from lots of powder and spin drift, the second couloir looks like more mixed climbing than ice climbing. Here's a photo I took January 28th, 2017:

 

trip.JPG

 

Ended up climbing the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck. Waist deep powder at times, but overall a lot of fun. :cool:

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any winter ascent is still something to be proud about. good job.

 

if you have the time, a trip report would be great reading/viewing for us low land monkeys. :)

 

Edited by genepires

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