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vsigler

self arrest video

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Some time ago, someone posted a link to videos showing some fairly realistic self arrest footage. If I remember correctly, they were shot on glacial ice, and the point of the videos was to demonstrate the violent nature of arresting a crevasse fall by a roped partner, and how anchors handle high shock loads. The videos were not fancy productions, and might have been from overseas (Russia, maybe?). Can anyone reference these (I know a million of these are out there...hoping to track down these specific ones though)? Thanks.

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oh for the days when a thread like this would be quickly filled with Mountie pics with shorts&gaiters and safari hats and mustaches.

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I think it is possible to stop a crevasse fall, but your technique needs to be a lot better than the clowns in this video.

Edited by bstach

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jeebus, what're the ethics on that there live human experiment? :)

 

gotta be some pilsner urquell down in there somewhere... :brew:

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Uhh, what was with that last glacier shot scene? Is it just me, my eyes playing tricks?

 

 

 

 

Edited by telemarker

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Obviously, in the Czech Republic they do not know the "Euro" method of glacier rope travel for 2 (even 3) climbers using the "butterfly knot" as a "stopper" to shorten the fall and help with rope dynamics.

With 5-6 butterfly knots every 3m between climbers that takes care of 30-35 meters, and still leaves some tail for each climber to set up a pulley system.

Nice music though. :yoda:

 

Maybe they can get a copy of Freedom of the Hills (Edition 7, pg.387) or later.

p.s. The Mountain decides who lives and who dies - beware of the slippery slope.

btw, when you fall far enough to scream - that's called a "Screamer" not a "Whipper".

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Falling in a crevasse is a serious business. When it happened to us while descending the Muldrow, it took two of us to stop the one that went in.

One climber trying to stop another needs quick response and perfect form.

Keep it safe.

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