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Posts
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Everything posted by jja
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also check http://www.rockies-ice.com/conditions.php from that site, the ghost access road on 1/30
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This has already been posted today !!
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News Report Man peed way out of avalanche A Slovak man trapped in his car under an avalanche freed himself by drinking 60 bottles of beer and urinating on the snow to melt it. Rescue teams found Richard Kral drunk and staggering along a mountain path four days after his Audi car was buried in the Slovak Tatra mountains. He told them that after the avalanche, he had opened his car window and tried to dig his way out. But as he dug with his hands, he realised the snow would fill his car before he managed to break through. He had 60 half-litre bottles of beer in his car as he was going on holiday, and after cracking one open to think about the problem he realised he could urinate on the snow to melt it, local media reported. He said: "I was scooping the snow from above me and packing it down below the window, and then I peed on it to melt it. It was hard and now my kidneys and liver hurt. But I'm glad the beer I took on holiday turned out to be useful and I managed to get out of there." Parts of Europe have this week been hit by the heaviest snowfalls since 1941, with some places registering more than ten feet of snow in 24 hours.
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does to it is a well known fact that where ever i may roam has at least 3 parties on route and 3 parties queued up at the base at any given time of the day
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rapping wherever i may roam sucks
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West Coast Ice 2nd edition to printer 11/25/04
jja replied to Don_Serl's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
any update on when the seattle shops might get it? I've called and they don't have it, and they don't know when they're getting it .. -
Changed pretty quick didn't it ? from -29 wind chill on saturday to possible rain on monday Text Forecast from Environment Canada Lillooet: Issued 11.00 AM PST Friday 14 January 2005 Today .. Sunny. Wind north 20 km/h. High minus 16. Cold wind chill minus 27. Risk of frostbite. Tonight .. Clear. Wind north 20 km/h. Low minus 21. Cold wind chill minus 32. Risk of frostbite. Saturday .. A mix of sun and cloud. Wind north 20 km/h. High minus 12. Cold wind chill minus 29. Risk of frostbite. Sunday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of flurries. Low minus 13. High minus 5. Monday .. Rain showers or flurries. Low minus 5. High plus 2. Tuesday .. Showers. Low 1. High 6.
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Thanks, I've been able to make plans now.
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Whatever happened to Besides the american hordes weren't in lillooet last weekend, the place was a ghost town, I suspect they were all hoarding up the world class ice at snoq. pass I'm sure it'll be much the same this weekend as well. Don't worry canucks, all those wet and short wi3 fa's in hope are all yours
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Go ice climbing instead
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Need a partner for this weekend. I can leave the eastside around 4pm on friday. I can drive. I've got a couple of things in mind but am open to whatever. pm or email, -john
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Sounds like an urban legend .. in fact I think this story was on the discovery show "myth busters"
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Salmon stakes was as sucky and stupid as you once told me it was !! Went to do hell creek on saturday and try and access some of the other "hell" climbs higher up, but after stemming around one too many gushers down low on the solo-able ice decided to bail to rescue the remainder of the day. Tried to get across the river on the little ice islands, but they would quickly fall apart as soon as you stood on them, so just hiked up river to the usual gravel bar crossing and ran across the river sans garbage bags, and made it to the other side mostly dry. Hiked up the crappy gully, gained the crappy ice, climbed the uninteresting ice steps, to the oh so enjoyable low angle is-this-ever-gonna-end-and-do-I-walk-or-use-tools-annoying-nonsense ice. Descended in the dark with one working head lamp, drove back to lillooet and realized I was now out a $119 retail almost new pair of gloves.
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One little trick that we learned only after getting stuck in a drift is an alternate route that bypasses most of the big drifts on the way to GBU. At the bottom of the big hill make the right turn as usual, but then instead of continuing on the obvious road make a left about 10 meters along the way across an open field. This will take you to a built up manmade morain thing. One steep little uphill will gain the top of this long containing wall, then you can drive along the top of this thing which parallels the regular road all the way to the bridge crossing. This bypass is do-able in any ordinary suv. But getting stuck in the ghost is like a right of passage, consider it part of the package.
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I left a pair of new BD Ice Gloves size large, black, on the hood of my car after a climb on Saturday 1/8 around 6pm and then drove off forgeting them. They are somewhere between the parking area for Salmon stakes and Lillooet. Slim chance of getting them back, but you never know. thanks, -john
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Does anyone know if the mile-0 is still open? I can't find a phone number on the web
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Beware dire warnings from the spraylord !! Remember this false alarm? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/303880/an/0/page/8#303880
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They exist. Jim Nelson has them at PMS for $11 each. In order to install you must use a razor blade and trim the rubber at the end of the handle and drill a small hole. It comes with instructions and is not that hard to do. I put them on my quarks and love them, besides helping to keep me from bashing my fingers gumby style, climbing leashless is super fun. I do all the easy climbs leashless now, when leading harder stuff I still leash up though. ... btw, they're called the "grip rest"
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As far as I know, there is no need to cross private property. Just park at the end of the plowed road and hike up the unplowed section toward OJ. At some point up the road you'll be able to turn left off the road and sidehill down into the drainage. If you walk far enough up the road you should be able to do this without jumping the barbed wire fence .. at least this was the case last year.
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Hey Jay, I've been in Cannmore since the 24th will be here till 1/2. Everything is in, and it's gotten real cold today. We're staying at a house in town. Partners may want to go skiing one or two days this week. If you or anyone else needs a partner for a day or two give me a call on my cell. cheers, -john 425.736.2928
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http://www.big-boys.com/articles/dudelipsync.html
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Somebody might not know these obvious sites for the rockies: Will Gadd's site Live the vision Rockies Ice
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