jja

One little trick that we learned only after getting stuck in a drift is an alternate route that bypasses most of the big drifts on the way to GBU. At the bottom of the big hill make the right turn as usual, but then instead of continuing on the obvious road make a left about 10 meters along the way across an open field. This will take you to a built up manmade morain thing. One steep little uphill will gain the top of this long containing wall, then you can drive along the top of this thing which parallels the regular road all the way to the bridge crossing. This bypass is do-able in any ordinary suv. But getting stuck in the ghost is like a right of passage, consider it part of the package.

I left a pair of new BD Ice Gloves size large, black, on the hood of my car after a climb on Saturday 1/8 around 6pm and then drove off forgeting them. They are somewhere between the parking area for Salmon stakes and Lillooet. Slim chance of getting them back, but you never know. thanks, -john

Does anyone know if the mile-0 is still open? I can't find a phone number on the web

web page

Beware dire warnings from the spraylord !! Remember this false alarm? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/303880/an/0/page/8#303880

They exist. Jim Nelson has them at PMS for $11 each. In order to install you must use a razor blade and trim the rubber at the end of the handle and drill a small hole. It comes with instructions and is not that hard to do. I put them on my quarks and love them, besides helping to keep me from bashing my fingers gumby style, climbing leashless is super fun. I do all the easy climbs leashless now, when leading harder stuff I still leash up though. ... btw, they're called the "grip rest"

As far as I know, there is no need to cross private property. Just park at the end of the plowed road and hike up the unplowed section toward OJ. At some point up the road you'll be able to turn left off the road and sidehill down into the drainage. If you walk far enough up the road you should be able to do this without jumping the barbed wire fence .. at least this was the case last year.

Hey Jay, I've been in Cannmore since the 24th will be here till 1/2. Everything is in, and it's gotten real cold today. We're staying at a house in town. Partners may want to go skiing one or two days this week. If you or anyone else needs a partner for a day or two give me a call on my cell. cheers, -john 425.736.2928

http://www.big-boys.com/articles/dudelipsync.html

Somebody might not know these obvious sites for the rockies: Will Gadd's site Live the vision Rockies Ice

icy bc early season .. best pic I think would be from the road though

and my smiling mug near the top

synchro top pitches

synchro ramp

.

first pitch proff's

os crux

Here's a few ..

Try and place one on a hard wi lead, and then you'll discover the catch

fuck yeah!!

click me

... all set for next week

hey eric, just deleted 385 pm's .. plenty of room now. what days are you free? I think I've got a partner lined up for Sat through Thursday, climb Sun, mon, tue, and wed .. does that work for you? .. come join the fat and out of shape for a flail fest in banff !!

That looks nice daler .. what did you use for the trigger finger? did you just tape it on or is it secured some other way?

While not necessarily recommended here's one method when you run out of rope. Girth hitch every piece of sling and cord you have together, rap off it, and then downclimb. The point is keep an open mind and look at all your options. cheers