Rodchester

I pretty much agree with ERIC. Especially at crags.

Many trad/alpine climbers do. In fact most all that I climb with and/or know, also clip bolts (myself included) from time to time. That doesn't mean that they agree that people should just start bolting everything in sight.

I don't think the bindings are a problems at all ... the problem is that the boots must be able to tour/skate and go down hill. The Denali is the best (or certainly one of the best) at the steep downhill stuff. But it doesn't tour as well. It is a classic case of robbing Peter to pay Paul. Touring and sking are two very different things, almost opposite. It is impossible to have a boot that Tours perfrectly and skis pefectly. If it skis beter it will worse at touring.

Everyone be cool, this is just my opinion. There is a difference between supported and unsupported. I am not saying one is better than the other, but they are different. Is there a difference between a expedition style fully supported summit of Everest with gas and one unsupported without gas? Of course. Did they both summit? Yes. Both worked hard and accomplished something major. In two different styles, but they both did it. God I know my old fat ass couldn't do it with or without support. So good gaod damn job!!!

I was there last week = snow above 9000 and climbers ranch should be closed. I think it closed Monday. Exum runs clients via the lower saddle until the 20th. I'd bet they haven't gotten anyone up lately due to weather. Wet and cold. Winter appears to be coming early there. 2 cents...good luck.

I agree. It is the same in many ways the same, but you always rob Peter to pay Paul. I ski lifts with mine from time to time and have no problems, though I can tell when the gear is at its limits, and its limits are less than that of good downhill gear. I recently upgraded the skis and think that with a pair of the Scarpa Denalis I can step up the performance.

I say this because is is a very stiff boot with TOO MUCH control. A beginner will not do well in a boot that is too sensitive to every slight move, twist, turn, shift of weight, etc. Don't make the assumption that a stiffer boot is better for everyone, otherwise all boots would be stiff. Also the Lazer will tour better. The Denali does not tour as well (too stiff).

If you intend to do BOTH WI and AI and only want one set of tools, go with a curved handle style tool set. I agree that the BD Shrikes are a good all around tool. I often take a regular ice axe with a WI tool on AI routes that are basic or involves short sections of steep with steps of lower angle in between (most shit that I do). Many do this.

Silvretta bindings rock. Very durable and take either the AT boot or a standard mountaineering boot. Scarpa Denali = NOT a beginner boot Don't start out in mountaineering boots, you'll get you ass handed to you. I agree with others (above) that the boots are the most important thing for an AT beginner. Have fun....

Recent CC.com thread on cams and biners

Have you ever seen, heard, or otherwise became aware of one actually failing? Or seen one worn to the point of serious concern? I agree with the old adage of, if you concerned, don't use it.

If you hear dueling banjos coming from your girlfriend's house...run. Does she ever say things like, "well, I was with my brother-daddy when .... "

Coopah: I was always told (i'm no engineer) tht the difference in aluminum (say 600 to 7075) is not the sftenss, but the strength. For instance when the metal will break as opposed to bend. Any metal guys get the ratings? Like I said, I'm not sure.

I'll do my best not to drop my hat. I have never had any problem with either the older version or the new FlexCams walking. I have has the older version for at about four years now. I certainly haven't noticed any difference between them and the BD, the HB, or Metolious.

I have some older Trango cams and they are nice. But I also have a few of the new FlexCams and they rock. Flexcams Don't get me wrong, BD cams . But if you are talking value and weight, they are not #1. Rock Empire cams are alright. Cheap, but something about them, that I can't put my finger on, makes me not like um. Check out the Trango page: "a large expansion range doesn’t reduce the number of cams you have to carry. If you want to place pro every 15 feet on a 150-foot pitch, you’ll need 10 cams, regardless of their expansion range." Another, with BD name in place: "Which brings us to weight. Take a look at a popular cam (BD), known for its expansion range, and compare it to our FlexCams™. In the popular (BD) hand size, this cam has 12% greater expansion range. That sounds great, until you look at the numbers and realize this is a whopping 3mm: the thickness of a tortilla. That same cam weighs 20% more than our comparable FlexCam™, meaning you can carry 10 FlexCams™ for every 8 of the “expansive” ones. We use a double-looped 12mm Ultratape™ sling, so you can clip in directly, at 4 inches or at 8 inches. That means you’ll rarely need a quick draw, which saves even more time and weight." OK so weight is covered. Strength? Trango = 8kN–12kN (passive or active) . "The cams lobes are CNC machined from 7075 aluminum extrusions, allowing us to control tolerances to a fraction of a millimeter. New for 2002 are full-strength, machined-in cam stops. While we don’t recommend placing cams in a fully open position, in the event that your cam walks into a wide spot and ends up fully opened, it won’t invert under load." BD = 7kN–16kN. Many BD cams are stronger, but not all of them. However, the Trangos are plenty strong. Price? Trango = $39.99 (and check them at Second Ascent, they are often cheaper) BD = $49.95 - $112.50. If you weoigh 300lbs and are worried about tortillas, get the BD. If you are talking value and weight, get the Trangos. I am a fan..can you tell? Good Luck Bro

Best Alpine Wiregate Biner Trango's Flex cams are also nice and very strong. They can usually be picked up at a good price at Second Ascent in downtown Ballard.

I have recently used three of the somewhat new lightweight biners. Trango Lightweight Omega JC Wiregate BD Neutrino All of these biners are about the same weight and each uses a wiregate. The BD Neutrino is a great biner, however, it is too small for winter and ice climbing useage. Hard to work with when wearing gloves. Overall a great biner for alpine and even cragging. JC Wiregate is a damn good biner and I am quite happy with the handfull that I have, and use. Also it combined with a Petzl pulley wheel is the lightest combo for a glacier rescue pully. Because of its somewhat unigue shape, it works perfectly with the pulley wheel, which is supposed to work with a classic oval. The Trango is the best of the bunch. It is larger than the others and I like the action. The larger size (at the sme weight) makes it a better choice for winter and ice climbing. They are sold at Second Ascent in Ballard (Seattle). I have picked up a half a dozen and just love them.

One bit of advice: be DAMN SURE that she knows what climbing is, at least in the sense that it takes time (i.e. you'll be gone many weekends) and that you fully intend to continue to climb after you are married. Be sure she knows it is not a fad or phase that you are going through. If you don't, it will be a phase. The tone and temper you set now will continue for years, maybe forever. The biggest mistake that I see others make when they get hitched is to give in during dating and not climb as often as they would like, thinking they'll climb later. Hopefully she isn't a needy type that needs to have you around all of the time. If she is, it won't get better. Congrats....no befpore you get hitched, be sure she knows what your needs are.....

Read the written material that comes with most filters. Almost universally you will find some statment about having a back up in case the filter: breaks, clogs, or is lost. I have seen Pur (some years back) recommend that you carry iodine tablets as a back up.....Hmmmm. Lighter, less bulk, cheaper, less maintainence, hmmm.

Send it to me...of course!!!

Take the pole to REI. It is an easy repair that they can do....probably about 10-15 bucks. Had them rabuild two out three poles a couple of years ago and they did it quick and cheap.... I thought you just used a trekking pole with the mega-mid?

Do you mean: scrambled-up or simul-climbed? Surely, you don't mean that you aided this section Just checking...

Food, beer, firetrucks, search lights, and hookers.....

GAPERS - THE MOVIE