Rodchester

Never used the Yates, but to a certain degree a picket is a picket. I used to have 2 three foot SMCs, now I have four 18 inch SMCs and I love them. The rock in hard snow conditions. For regular winter Cascade concrete, I use flukes and two foot MSRs. The only time you need three footers is when there is a SHITLOAD of snow that is very loose and powdery...not very often in the Cascades. Try this...go out and properly bury a two footer as a deadman. take a huge slide on it, get five guys to pull on it. It will not budge it it placed correctly. When driving the picket longways into the snow... the holding power will depend on the snopw conditions...... Place them correctly with no "leaver" action when it loads and it should hold your mom. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Apparently you have to be some sort of "explorer" to find this huge unclimbed ice. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Mountain Dude/Tim, I agree with you. Why set up a whole different web page? It seems very fitting to have it right here as a subsection of cascadeclimbers.com. ------------------ Have a nice day.

I have worn a few pairs of Technicas and agree that they are very comfortable and decent at durability. Make sure the boots fits YOUR foot and YOUR activity. As is said above...no boot will do it all.

I agree that this is a really good idea. I may be able to help, although I am busy with my "regular" job. Let me know. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Wow...that is a good one to consider. Of course there will not be any solid yes or no....let me think this one over. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Mikeadam, Would I still say the same thing if it was Mark Twight? God damn right I would.... ------------------ Have a nice day.

DPS, Preach preach preach...blah blah blah additude additude additude. Why do you care about the crowds at the crags, or at Drury Falls? You aren't there...are you? And if all those folks at the sport crags were on your test pieces...would that make you happy? Not everyone can climb at your level...and you can't climb at everyone's level. Accept it, deal with it. People are different, climb for different reasons, at differnet levels. And many climbers don't have balls, they don't need them. We call them women. And many climb harder and higher then you. Spare me. ------------------ Have a nice day.

I have a pair of Hagans that are 170 cm with Silverretta 400 bindings. The are very basicand while not really short they are still easy to ski. I am 6 ft. about 190lbs. If you intend to ski with your regular mountainering boots, I would say good luck. I know some who can do it, and do it fairly well, but it takes a lot of skill and works you like a beast of burden. It can work on very basic approaches and descents. If you go too short you will loose flotation, especially in powder and with climbing gear weight. If you use Randonee boots you can ski and climb in them. They take cramp-ons. Depending on the type/brand, they can climb better or ski better. This is an area that is to each there own. Many ways to do it and none are the only way. Each has positives and negatives. For my non-talented ass, the Randonee boots make all of the difference. Good luck. ps: make sure that the binding takes a mountaineering plastic boot. Some like Diamar Fritschi (Spelling?) do not. ------------------ Have a nice day.

I have been hearing abou the book called "One Day winter Climbs" by Dallas Kloke. Does anyone know how I can get this thing? Does this guy have an e-mail address? Phone number? ------------------ Have a nice day.

The Exum is a good route, although it can be crowded and you have to screw around with the park systems for permits. Unless you plan on blasting a one day round trip climb. 60 meter rope is the way to go on this route. A 50 meter will not be enough to rap off, so you need two ropes. There are lots of other moderate rock routes in the tetons that are very accesible. Also the AAC climbers ranch is the best deal in the west, hands down. The Wind River Range is great but has some access concerns. The North Wind Range is astounding. It sees far less traffic than the more popular areas like the tetons. However, it is very remote and requires between 15 to 25 miles of rugged trail hiking to get to the main divide area. The North also has some great Alpine Ice/summer ice climbs. The North also has some classic glacier mountaineering routes. The South Wind River Range is a bit more accessible and has a slightly dryer weather pattern than the North. The approaches are shorter and there are some absolute classics in the Cirque of the Towers area. Mid-July through the first week in September is the best time to climb in the Winds and Tetons. June can be good but it can be bad. There are plenty of good books on the winds and the tetons. If you are on the North east side of the Winds for any reason, stop and eat at the "Cowboy Cafe" in Dubous. It just rocks!!! The rustic pine is a good place to water up too. They also have TeePees for rent in the middle of town for a cheap place to crash with showers and well within staggering distance to the bars and resturants. Feel free to drop me a line if you need any more beta. ------------------ Have a nice day.

It is pronounced "koom" and it is welsch in origin and means valley. Now-a-days it is used in the context of very large, very high valleys flowing out of a cirque. The only one that I know of to provide an example is the Western CWM on Everest's south side....oh yeah...and the sleeping bag. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Wopper, I have been up to the Rambles the past two weekends. The entire Rambles area is in good shape and most all of it protects with screws rather well. A couple of shorties always help in a pinch and are always recommended. The Rambles enjoys a long season. It is fairly high in elevation and is well-protected from sunlight, it is north facing. Climbing can get crowded there so get on it early and go. Remember that there is more ice about a 10 minute slog above the main area that very few ever go to. Two sets of flows are up top, each offering varied levels of diffculty. ------------------ Have a nice day.

I agree with Herzog that we should not document EVERYTHING, but it would be great to have a place where these types of routes and the approach beta could be recorded. Not all of us can or care to, climb 5.10 A3 Grade V routes. I am happy on moderate and easy alpine routes. Stay happy..... ------------------ Have a nice day.

If you are talking about the main area at the Rambles...I have always just heard it refered to as the Rambles. There are no names that I know of, anybody else? The main Rambles area is WI2 and maybe some short WI3-. To the right of the main area (150 meters) there is another area that I would rate as a WI3, but many say it is just WI2+. Above each, the main area and the right area, there are upper areas that will range from WI2 to WI4. I know the ratings are very hard to get down and I do not cliam to be the master, but that is my feeling and that of the masses that hit the area. ------------------ Have a nice day.

Hey...what is wrong with summer Rangers? I would rather sweat it off then freeze it off!!! It was 100 degrees in Florida, and then and it hit 115 everyday in Dugway during summer of 1998.

I agree with Dale. If there is one thing I have learned in my short ice climbing experience, it is that it is almost always harder when you are on it then standing under it, and second that you should take what others say the rating/grade is with a very large grain of salt....enough salt to melt out the climb.

Hey Climzalot, Thanks for the beta. I think the canyons tend to stay a good bit colder than the town of Liloeet, so it sounds like it is in.

Does anyone have any beta on ice conditions in the Liloeet are of BC? I know it got a bit warm. I am wondering if it melted out? It is getting good and cold again and I am planning on heading up there this weekend. Thanks

If you have any mountaineering experience you do not need a guide on Cotopaxi...that is if you do the main route. It is a simple and very straight forward mountain. Chimbo is a bit more challenging but again, if you are an experienced NW mountaineer that has spent time on the NW volcanoes, you will be fine without a guide. I also wouldn't trust South American Guides unless they are guiding with a North American company, Mountain Madness, AAI, etc. Their safety record can be good but is usually bad. Their rescue techniques are usually horrible too. Good luck and enjoy!!! Save your money.

I have a pair of the Shrikes and I am very happy with them. They swing well and are fairly light, considerably lighter than the old X-15, which I also have used. Another other thing to consider on the Shrike is the strength of the shaft. I think that the BP with a carbon fiber shaft is weaker than the Shrike's aluminum shaft when cross loaded, as in use as a deadman to belay off of. Just something to consider...don't quote me on this...just something to consider. ------------------ Have a nice day.

I was at Pandome falls two weekends ago, December 10, 2000, and it was in enough if you are hard core and very comfortable on thin and chandaliered ice. We rapped down it to check it out. Very little pro, some parts chandaliered quite badly, on some parts the ice appeared to be pulling away from the rock, mankie mankie mankie shit. It was cold then and has only gotten warmer. It could have come in since but I HIGHLY doubt it. If you want ice head North to Liloeet.... ------------------ Have a nice day.