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Rodchester

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Everything posted by Rodchester

  1. I've actually had good luck with REI repair for many things, a zipper included.
  2. I'm prety sure the Grivel G-12 fits large boots. Check this....says up to size 15!
  3. For winter use and multi day trips, go with the dryloft. I have a Marmot Aquille Dryloft -5 that i love, but it, much like the Coulior, is a little on the heavy side. However, for longer trips ad winter, it rocks. The Dryloft is effective at keeping the down pretty dry (on most trips). I have never gotten it soaked, or really not much more than damp. The lightweight bags are usually lighter due to a few things, one of them being the lightweight fabic of the shell. Fine for 20-40 degree bags, where you are basically using it as a summer bag, where you won't die if you get wet. The lightweight fabric, even with fancy DWRs, is NO WHERE NEAR as waterproof as Dryloft. I would take a serious look at the REI -5 Downtime with Elements. Impressive bag at that price. Good luck.
  4. Don't need two 50s, if you have a 60 meter it will reach for the rap off. fun fun fun.
  5. Go to Chicago and drink like a Viking and chase women. That's the only real climbing in the area. Red River gorge is hard climbing, a long drive, and HUMID, but fun.
  6. Minx: From experience (having been in the area at least three Septembers), September can be pretty crappy. Good luck with it!
  7. The main season in the Winds and the Tetons is July and August. August is best, though June can be decent in some areas. September can be great or really bad. Keep in mind the elevation is considerably higher there than here. The Bighorns are decent and have some enjoyable scambles up 13,000 and 12,000 foot peaks. That said, the Winds are best and the Tetons rock. For backpacking, the Winds and Yellowstone are best. Tetons have many great class four scrambles. If you want to do some good remote mountaineering (basic ice axe/crampons snow climbs that are easy enough to be soloed by a competent mountaineer, try the northern Winds. Gannett, Dinwoody, Titcomb Basin area. Guide book for the Winds is Climbing and Hiking in the Winds by Joe Kelsy and if you can find it, the Field Book: Wind River Range by O.H. Bonney. Guide book for the Tetons is Ortenburger's book. .
  8. I am 6 ft and i max out every inch of my Bibler I-tent. Go with the Bibler Eldo one door.
  9. I have two down bags with Dryloft and two without. Those without are nylon with DWR treatment. The difference is huge. The Dryloft is still very breathable, so it does not trap moisture and it is very water resistant (though not waterproof). The one with only a DWR treatment wicks away basic moisture but does not do much in the way of actual water. (Had a cooking accident, and found out the hard way just how ineffective the DWR is). If you think you'll be using it in winter (which it sounds like you're not) or in wet conditions, go with the Dryloft (or other version). If you are doing mostly summer weekend usage in the Cascades and or Rockies, you'll be fine with out the Dryloft. As I said above, it weighs more and costs more.
  10. I know...just chimming in Mary Lou. I hate the thing....bad idea.
  11. Most of the 2lb lightweight down bags are not very water resistant. Dryloft does a pretty damn good job of keepin gthe moisture out, and still being breathable. However, it will add weight and cost to the bag. FF has its own version, I think it is the Epic that other mention here. If you think moisture and getting wet will be an issue, then the dryloft (or like) is worth it. If not, look at the Moonstoone Lucid and the new Mountainsmith bags. Good performance at a fair price.
  12. ML: My recollection is that this was not just a "bolt" ban, but a fixed anchor ban ... in otherwords: ANY fixed anchor, including rap slings.
  13. BD replaced some for me, but will ONLY do them for BD cams and will only replace it with the type of sling that was originally on the cam.
  14. Wow, I am rather amazed at some of the statements here. The question seems to be: Does Beal make a rope that is "certified" as both a double/half rope and a twin rope. Beal Half and Twin Ropes Beal says about its 8.1 Ice Line: BEAL PRESENTS THE VERY LIGHTEST DOUBLE ROPE. ITS EXTREMELY LOW IMPACT FORCE IS EXCELLENT NEWS FOR LESS-THAN-PERFECT BELAY POINTS IN ICE AND ON MIXED ROUTES. A TRUMP CARD THAT NO ALPINIST CAN IGNORE. STRONG POINTS: The lightness and free flow of a twin rope in addition to the advantages of a Double rope. Beal goes on to say: PERFORMANCES • Double rope - UIAA - CE ------- • Number of bobbins --------------32 • Weight per metre ---------------42 g • Impact force (with 55 kg) BEAL Guaranty ------------------ 4,9 kN • Number of falls factor 1,77 (55 kg) BEAL Guaranty ----------8 • Sheath slippage --------------0 mm • Extension during the first fall ---37 % • Static elongation ----------------12% Now I don't claim to be a professional rock jock, I'm no engineer, but I am a climber and an attorney that does a good bit of products liability cases. From climbers viewpoint: Some here are bickering about the rope and whether it has past drop tests. As a climber, I think it is pretty clear that Beal lists this as a half/double rope. Further, its web page lists that it has passed certification as a double/half rope (Double rope - UIAA - CE). I do not see anywhere on the Beal page where it states that this rope has also passed drop tests as a twin. Which as we all know means that you clip each rope into seperate gear, or alternately. Am I missing something here. If so, please correct me. Additionally, don't the drop tests speak to the rope strength, and not the impact on the gear (at least not in a pass/fail sense)? Know I know it lists the impact force (Impact force (with 55 kg) - 4.9 k.N), but I think it is safe to assume that this is in testing as a half/double rope, not as a twin. (Why? Because that's how they listed it). If they had tested and certified it as both, then they would list the impact force for each test, half/double and twin. It doesn't. Is there actually a pass or fail number in impact force? If so what is it? Anyone? Beal's strong points say that you get "the lightness and free flow of a twin rope" ... but I bet if you clip the two on the same gear, you'll get the impact force of two, count em two half/double ropes. As a climber, I'll just say: As an attroney: Well I'll keep this real short. There is no way in hell that the wording/text on the Beal website would pass as warranty for purpose or use as a twin rope. No offnse meant, but I have not seen anything that indicates that this rope is tested and warrantied as both a twin and double rope. If you have something from Beal that says this is BOTH a trwin and a half rope, cite to the source and supply.
  15. Rodchester

    taco bell

    did you tell him he should be thankful? i bet they got starbucks there, though ... I was in Santiago, Chile on business a couple of months ago and they had Starbucks there .... everything was the same , except they spoke Spanish.
  16. Rodchester

    taco bell

    A buddy from Mexico City tells me that everytime that he comes to the states that he loves going to his favorite American food resturant, Taco Bell, because you can't get anything like it in Mexico.
  17. The harpoons and rambos are good water ice crampons, but I take it you are looking for alpine crampons? G-12 Crampo-matic G-12 New-matic I'd go with the New-matic, as they will fit a wider range of boots. Basic Cheapos or More Aggressive Cassin Or check Second Ascent. They have some older basic crampons laying around for pretty cheap. Good Luck.
  18. Actually, while most were burried where they fell (usually gathered up and interned into local graves, tagged and registered) many if not most were eventually dug up and returned to US soil for proper burial. Other's were dug up and put into more formal centralized grave yards with memorials. I knew a frenchman that was born and raised in northern France. His grandmother made him plant American flags on memorial day every year and would spank him if he cursed America or complained saying that they are free because of America. I respect working toward preventing the need for future graves, but we should not let this cloud our view of those fallen in the past...least we forget. Show respect this Memorial day. It doesn't mean you agree, it means you remember. I don't want to see anyone's sons drafted.
  19. CBS and I have been looking at and discussing the differnces between a single and a twin system, not a double. If a said double anywhere I apologize.
  20. First off, you may be correct....but CLEARLY the difference betwen the two would be sooooo small, that few would ever notice it. Second off, in the real world the drag cuased by the placement of gear/slings as well as the nature of the route will dictate the rope drag to such a point that any difference caused by the type of system, twin versus single (which as we all know is already almost nothing in real world terms) would be dwarfed to the point that it isn't even relevant in an academic sense. Not trying to be an ass here or anything CBS, but while your point may be correct in a physics sense, it is meaningless in application.
  21. I think CBS is WAY over simplyfying it. It has a lot to do with the angles which the rope travels between pro and around/over objects. The rope could be in such a position as to not even come into contact with the rock and yet still have a lot of rope drag. The difference in rope drag between a twin system and a single rope set up in the identical scenario is likely to be very little.
  22. Sorry to hear that GregW. That really sucks.
  23. Both are good axes and each performs well, for general mountaineering. Again, for general mountaineering, the Ravel Pro's head / grip is far superior in that it carries in comfort unlike any other ice axe. It is roughly the same weight...so what is the advantage of the Grivel? None. I've used both and love the Raven. You can buy my Grivel...
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