Squid

Tasty Bite!

This sounds like a story worth sharing, TG. Give it up. We wanna know! (and get better soon)

I dress left; will that change which gear loop I clip my belay biner into?

Yeah, I'm really excited to see what the gumnut blender sybians are trying to tell me.

Pagetop nodder

Heck, isn't that all we talk about, anyway?

for you, maybe

'there is no nodder...'

The editors of Gripped, Alpinist, and VBoulder have all contacted me to make a statement re: Mr.Yngve's ascent of 'Snugtops Revenge.' While I am not in a position to either confirm or deny this ascent, I have to admit that it would be a stunning accomplishment. On the flip side, some serious questions regarding Yngve's climb have been raised, including both verification and tactics. There have been allegations of using untaped holds, 'fat belayer assists,' and other shenanigans. If anyone has concrete evidence, please pm me and we can discuss this out of the limelight.

Oooh, me! I'd like to have the virgin fall! Me, me!

Sounds like a great trip!

I dunno about that. That looks like pre-goldline, bowline-around-the-waist-Gaston Rebuffat sort of pic. Different set of consequences than bolts and dynamic ropes.

Snugtop IS -.

Shut up, beyotch! Did I give you permission to speak? I didn't think so! Steve, your opinion is weird and scary.

Three climbers (who prefer not to be identified) have approached me to verify Gary's claim. They will submit signed affidavits to the proper authorities in due time.

toothsome pagetop

'once bitten'

I like to leave my ropes on the dinner table, next to the mustard and ketchup.

Dammit, Jon, get yer nose out of my mouth.

Take another look at those Ziffco sleds- one design feature they have that's worth its weight in gold is the rear-slippage brake- a little blade on an axel that slides over the snow when moving forward, but bites in and keeps the sled from sliding backwards. It should be pretty easy to kludge that onto any kiddy sled.

Never underestimate my powers of sneakiness, Klenke. I've surprised better souls than you. BTW, there are some other notable new routes up at the UW: 'Tastes Like Mammut,' 'Beal Dental Plan,' and 'Tooth Fairy.'

Dberdinka, you sure sound like you have your head on straight. Sorry this shit happened to you, but your attitude is dead-on. I wanna be more like you!

Generally, the way I clip and (drumroll for ironic effect) the way I teach others is to try to clip when the bolt/piece is at yer waist- that way you don't feed extra slack into the system if you miss the clip. Clipping at the waist also obviates the necessity of rope-tasting. Those who can, do. Those who can't, bite the rope.

..and the Ice Lines taste better when you get a good bite of 'em.

Just for reference- I've seen plenty of harnesses used heavily for 6-10+ years (know some old geezers with harnesses older than me). Like the others said above, retire it when you feel sketchy about it, but I wouldn't be concerned about it just because its 4 years old.