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max

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Everything posted by max

  1. max

    Lazy Guidebook Authors

    Marc Dilley did a pretty descent job of this for Vantage... http://www.justgetout.net/ClientFiles/8ecf9e69-8f8f-419d-91d8-10c7ca9cbcbb/VantageGuide-AllEdited-515.pdf These days you don't need a bunch of money... just time and effort and you can produce pretty slick documents. I was up at Newhalem the last few days and wish someone would put something together for that place. The NPS site just doesn't cut it!
  2. It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.
  3. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1067612/gonew/1/Mt_Baker_conditions#UNREAD
  4. Wow. Now you're talking. This is counter what I've always heard. Good "evidence based" rational. I'd still ditch it.
  5. First thought: "I've had this condom in my wallet for three years, and the wrapper looks real faded. But I don't see any tears in it. I'm planning on hooking up with this girl. Think the condom's ok?" Just the fact that you are asking online answers your questions for you. Ditch it. Get a new rope. Wait for one to go on sale online. Even a cheap sale rope will be better (for your confidence) than a "fouled" rope. 2nd thought: what do the instructions say? Who's more of an authority: the manufacturer or an anonymous dirt bag online? Ditch it. 3rd thought, a practical moral dilemma: next time you go climbing, are you going to tell your partner? If not, why not? Is there something wrong with it? Wouldn't they want to know? If you do decide to tell them, tell them, what do you think their response will be? Either way, it seems like you need to ditch the rope.
  6. max

    never mind

    Now I didn't go back and review this gem, 'cause it seems like the OP either came to his/her senses or ran away crying, but.. She could ask the FS if the organization has a valid concessionaires permit. I think any organizations that makes money using FS property needs a permit. I think. And I'm not going to get fucking lawyer like and figure this out, this is a discussion (sort of) and someone else can chip in with better info if they like.
  7. Is this spam? Cause if it's not, youve got a lot to figure out! For $85, most people will want to know, uh....what size? Brand? Model? Really. These are some basic you may consider.
  8. More thread creep: (skip if you're still interested in carry on rules...) R6 is the USDA designation for the national forests, monuments, grasslands, and some other crap in (roughly) Washington and Oregon. It really doesn't apply to me because I'm not longer with those fascist bastards (JK!). I'm not really a creeper. Gene and I go back. Funny story about R6 and air cargo rules: I worked for a national fire resource (we traveled around the country working wildfires. Part of our SOP's was that every crew member carried a sigg bottle of gas and a sigg bottle of bar oil 'cause if the saws shut down, the whole crew shut down. We used to fly to AK every summer or so for fires there. We kept a supply of unused, clean siggs that we could fly with us, then fill once we landed. The first thing we did when we got a "flight dispatch" was ditch our siggs, fussee's (glorified road flares), MRE's, and any other TSA no-no. All of our gear went as checked luggage. Now IT WASN'T ME! But the story was that somebody forgot to take their siggs out of their pack, and they (the siggs full of gas) made it to AK! It was figured out once we were in the field, so the guilty party just freaked out and ditched it somewhere in the central AK bush! My guess is our stuff reeked or gas, oil, spit, and smoke so much that their sniffer devices went balistic, they figured it was useless checking all the stuff 'cause we were with the feds anyways, and just let it all pass. Ooops!
  9. the "research" on the internet is a diversion from my real "homework. Next research topic: were does genepires @ cc.com live. Begin creeping.....
  10. Now I'm not calling anybody a liar. Lets get that straight. And you seem to be pointing at a "it may have been" (which is cool and all), and I can't say I know anything about what Jens said (other than your post here)... If a rope ended up being a "prohibited item", I can't believe they'd say "You have to throw that away." I speculate that TSA would say "you can't enter the terminal area with that. Go check it." Nosing around I found on the TSA page... So it looks like they could "abandon" the property at the checkpoint, but it seems like security has become a little less twitchy in the last ten years.
  11. I'm a map buff of sorts, so let me ask you this: Why do you ask? Do you see this map as a practical map, a collectors map, or an aesthetic map? My take w/r/t the question above. Practically, not much I just prefer the 7 1/2's in conjunction with a park-wide map. Collector... I'm not much of a collector, so my price has no "market" insight. But personally, unless it was pre-....50's I'm not that hot about it. I've bought some 7 1/2 minute quads that were lacking major landmarks (e.g. pre-Ross dam) at outdoor stores and chuckled over it. Aesthetically.... I'd put it up on a wall in my classroom and pay.... $20. But that may be significantly undervaluing the "collector" component. Also, I think you can download a digital copy from the USGS or other sites linked from cc.com, and have it printed at kinkos for around $20. Just my thoughts. Again, I'm not map collector, but your post piqued my interest because I'm something of a map geek.
  12. I think I've left a similar post in a similar thread somewhere around here... I want to chime in and respectfully disagree with some of the previous posters. I'd like to see MORE places harder to get to. There are plenty of roads in Washington that get to remote places, and re-opening this road only increases our motorized impacts on the area. I think a recent trip report showed that this roads only adds half a day travel by bike. Again, I'd respectfully disagree with the argument that opening this road is worth it for the increased environmental awareness. There already are plenty of cool, mind-blowing, heart warming places for people to go and see their place in the world that already have road access. They're not doing because they're preoccupied with football and Nintendo, not because they can't drive there! Of course, both the previous poster's argument and my counter-argument are completely subject. Any economist who would claim to be able to quantify this scenario and make a judgement.... nah. Don't by it. I think it just comes down to do you want to be able to drive closer, or do you want to have to walk farther. I'd rather walk farther if there are fewer people. Wilderness should be wild (even if that means shutting down the bikes, too! ) Respectfully, Dave Brannon
  13. Can y'all start using the right initials? USFS, not USNF. check it on their website.
  14. #1. (subletting): Can't help ya. Check craigs list. 2. (Parking): Your going to need to clarify. Are you talking about parking on campus? Call the college. Are you talking about parking around town? If so, no permitt needed unless you're in the "residential Zone" right around campus (think three or four blocks within campus) My suggestion: move farther away (cheaper, quieter, better rentals) and ride your bike. 3. Gyms: one on campus (short wall, college scene, and requires student ASB fee), one at the YMCA (tall, time available for public climbing limited, considered pedestiran/oh-so noob by some locals and hecklers alike, comes to $35 a month), and various home walls for which you need the bro hookup. Gear shops: AAI (pricey), REI, Backcountry Essentials (fun to browse the used deals and wierd gear) 4. Call me this summer and we can hook up for something. Dave 360.319.3050
  15. I'm looking for a room or a Westphalia parking spot and bathroom access in Wenatchee, East Wenatchee, Rock Island, or the whereabouts for the summer, May through October. Hopefully won't be around much, and am always courteous when I am. Give me a shout dave davidmichaelbrannon at gmail.com
  16. max

    Rope problem?

    In all honesty, I'm not that sure people who work at a gym necessarily know much about ropes. Obviously, some gym staff are top notch, but not always. I've watched the staff at this gym. Lets just say I always make a trip up the easy routes to check out the setup first. Oh, and I did point it out to them. They had no idea, and said they'd pass it along. Seems pretty reasonable. AND, my second edit: I totally respect the guy I talked to at the gym, and he's a good guy. But not a rope expert. Now you many ask, "If you don't trust a gym person, why would you trust a internet dude?" Reasonable question, but my original idea was that someone with true professional/expert knowledge would pipe up and explain. I tend to agree with you regarding making a mountain out of a mole hill. I'm still climbing there. But I'd like to know.
  17. max

    Rope problem?

    Good clarification. They just barely stick out of the sheath all along the length of the rope, not just the ends. It seems like this id filament is in the center of the rope and wouldn't come out between the threads of the sheath.
  18. max

    Rope problem?

    Unknown. The ID wrappers on the end are missing. If it helps, solid, deep azure blue. So far my action is to bring it to the attention of the staff, and ask for a followup.
  19. Here's the situation: Five newish ropes at a local gym, all the same brand and all have small strands of white, tough, plastic materials sticking out of/through the mantle of the rope. The strands can be pulled out of the mantle, are 2-10 mm in length, 1 mm wide, flat or tape-like, wrinkly, and tough. They are spread out along the rope w/o noticable pattern with an average density of 2-3 per meter. Otherwise, the ropes seem fine. Personally, I'm still climbing on them. I've owned ropes, seen ropes at gyms, and worked with rigging ropes that look way more sketchy, but for other reasons. My guess is that these are filaments of the core sticking through, but that the bulk of the core is intact and functional. My question is if there are any reps/professionals out there who can speak to this. Obviously, I'd like to here from the armchair crowd too!
  20. Mind posting the link in text? My browser doesn't show the preview....
  21. hell mother-fuckin' yeah. Awesome, amazing story. These guys deserve a round...
  22. Quick random thoughts: xc skiing is where it's at. That composed 75% of my skiing this season. Overall, this whole thing seems to point out something that bothers me about our (outdoor recreation) culture: "Bigger is better", "go big or go home", "lay it on the line", "man up", "the rewards go to those who risk". We get this message from marketing and we perpetuate this message in our media. How mnay times have you seen people caught in avalanches in the ski movies. Alot. That (directly/implicitly/purposefully/unintentionally, what ever) endorses/encourages/celebrates high risk behavior. And without equally representing the negative effects, leads to biased (unsafe) decisions. Sort of like ads with the wrong price. "These sort of freak accidents happen". As with Tvash, it's what the news is saying but this sounds pretty sketchy to me. And the potential conflict of interest w/r/t her sponsorships makes me pause... It's not good for business to say "predicting avi hazards turns out to be a lot harder than I thought.. I may want to ski less (aggressively)..."
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