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David_Parker

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Everything posted by David_Parker

  1. Italian Traffic Jams

    On my trip to the Dolomites a few years ago I thought the only "sport" ! would be participating in would be climbing. However I quickly learned that driving in Italy is alao a sport. I loved the 16 ft. radius hairpin turns throughout the mountains and I was impressed with the way the drivers conducted themselves on the autobahn. While I always thought Italians had big egos, I found they put their egos into the car they drove but not the WAY the drove it. The rules were simple...if someone wants to go faster and is behind you you better make room by moving over. Nobody passes on the right. Everyone drives fast, but some cars are just faster than others. It is not rude to cut in front of you again, missing you by inches. It's like they have eyes in the back of their heads. They are courteous to bike riders and respect motorcycles. The buses are the things to look out for. Also, on a two lane road with wide shoulders, it is common for the faster driver to pull out, turn on his headlights and straddle the middle lane. The car in front being passed is expected to drift over and any car coming the other way knows to do the same. If you pull over to pass and see headlights coming down the middle, you wait! Try that in the America. I think Americans are the worst drivers with biggest egos. It's like "hey, I know I'm in the left lane and your flashing your lights to pass me, but I'll be damned if I'm going to move over because I'm going at least 1/2 mph faster than the car I'M trying to pass, so fuck you!" My next bumper sticker: "If I pass you on the right, then you're an ASSHOLE!"
  2. For sale, BD Hotwires, BRS X-15, X-15, Rope, Etc.

    dude, check you PM! I'm interested in one X-15 BRS if it's straight shaft. Don't want red shaft or bent shaft. What is legnth and PRICE???
  3. climb'n shoez for clownz

    At Barrabes: ballet gold..$88.00us. Up to size 13. http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?dept_id=364&pf_id=4752&opt=a
  4. climb'n shoez for clownz

    Or Boreal Ballet gold. I got mine thru feathered friends. I liked them better than the mega which they also sell.
  5. Speeding Tickets in Oregon

    I always find twisting the truth works: Dear Judge, well you see I am a single girl and I heard of this raging party at Smith Rock with a bunch of honed climbers who like to party like me. Thing is there was going to be this keg of excellent TG beer and since it was already 12:30 in the morning, I was afraid it was going to be all gone. My co-pilot had just said we had passed a cop, so I really didn't think there were any more. Anyway, there is no way I was going 94 mph because otherwise I would have been wearing a truck on the front of my car. And really, do you think my Plymouth Volare can really go that fast? I swear, that cop must have radared that truck because he passed ME like he was late for his daughters wedding. Scared the holy @((#%&^@ out of me. I think this has been a huge mistake and I promise not to ever, ever speed in you lovely state again! Not that I was speeding to begin with!
  6. Speeding Tickets in Oregon

    Next time only go 98 while on the Warm Springs Indian reservation. Do not speed between Madras and Terrebon! Showing up and having the cop not show up is NOT a guarantee you'll get off. His written report IS evidence even without him there. Not being there only serves for him to not being able to substantiate it. You must unequivocally deny speeding at all. If you say you "might have been speeding, but gee judge, I wasn't going 98 though" you will not get off. Beware of the trap of the judge getting you to admit even that you "might" have been speeding. Claiming the cop must have radared the car in front of you has worked for me. But that is what really happened too. Lieing in court is not a good thing. At 98mph, I doubt there were many cars in front of you! If it's your first offence, it shouldn't affect insurance but I'm not sure for a 98mph. It might be worth showing up because like said before, they will probably reduce the fine and usually that means they reduce the "speed" as well. How the hell do you climb with lead feet anyway?
  7. Cam Repair in B'Ham!?

    if all you need is a swage, go to a sailboat rigging shop. You might have to explain it has nothing to do with the function of the cam from a technical standpoint. I did it once in ballard and after I showed them how it worked, they did it for me. Lots of rigging shops in B-ham!
  8. Waterproofing glove palm leather?

    Eskimos like to piss on the leather and then chew on it. Seriously though, I have only liked using leather palmed gloves for 20 years of ice climbing. All the synthetics suck and wear out too fast. I have a pair of wool mittens with leather palm sewed on and I have used snowseal every year. Put on warm, and not day or hour before you head out. Mine are still supple, and kinda sticky, but I've never had the shit rub off on my gear. Don't over apply. I am trying the nikwax liquid on my Cloudveil ice gloves, but I think I need many more applications to see if it works. Put the shit on when the leather is wet! I also have used mink oil with silicone and Dubin. It seems you just have to reapply frequently, really. I put the gloves on, and apply and then just massage in while watching the news or monday night footbal. While climbing, water gets into gloves more from the back and finger seams than the palm. Use seam seal. Rapping wet/icy ropes forces water into the palm of your gloves. I try not to use the same gloves for climbing and rapping. Use all your gloves you bought thinking they were going to be good for climbing for belaying and rappelling!
  9. Tele Advice

    My first question is what kind of boots do you have to drive whatever skis you want to get. Put your money into boots that fit and match what you want to do, not what you can do right now. If you already have the new plastic boots, please inform what kind. If you want to learn tele and are coming from a strong alpine background, try to see if you can find some leather boots (cheap). A lot of guys here will scoff at what I'm saying, but if you want to learn the true essence of a tele turn the way it was meant to be, modern gear can keep you from that. (I have my theory; too long to explain) Depends how much a purist to the tele turn you want to be. Sounds like you already have AT gear, thus the ability to go into the BC and ski. If I'm interpreting right, you want to learn the tele turn, not just get a setup that gets you into the BC. Also, I would spend some time at resorts but try to get off piste. The more vert you can crank in a day, the better you'll get faster. It 'aint an easy learning curve, but totally worth it if you're dedicated. I don't believe all the hype about absolutely needing wide, curvy skis. Personally I like my skiis sinking into the pow, not always riding on top. Don't get all caught up in ski hype. Pick a decent pair and you will get used to them and then they will be "your" skis. One day of demo will not help at all. You aren't good enough yet to know the difference and besides, conditions are too varied day to day (hour to hour)anyway. That setup is fine, I'd pay about $150 tops. Tons of used gear out there!
  10. Would you prefer to live in Boise or Salt Lake?

    You obviously never ate acid and went to see all the x-mas lights at the Mormon Temple....
  11. Would you prefer to live in Boise or Salt Lake?

    As for wilderness, I felt just as "remote" way back in a slot canyon in the maze as I did on the top of Mt Fury. It's just different "wilderness." Until you have seen the unbelievably vast expanse of all those canyons, I wouldn't be saying Utah doesn't offer as much in "wilderness". The largest wilderness areas in the west are probably Frank Church in Idaho, Wind Rivers in Wyoming, North Cascades in WA, and Canyonlands (incl. all BLM land) in Utah.
  12. Would you prefer to live in Boise or Salt Lake?

    This is a simple choice for me. SLC! A few comments. There are more mormons in SLC, but there are more non-mormons too! I'll bet the % of mormons is less in SLC than Boise. Idaho is huge mormonville. It doesn't really matter though. You don't have to go to their church to screw their girls! You are mising the biggest reason to move to SLC. ICE! there is plenty of it in all shapes and levels and it forms fairly consistantly every year. You have Provo Canyon, Big and Little Cottonwood, Santaquin, Maple, and more up around Ogden. Some really fun stuff off the beaten path if you are willing to search for it. I wouldn't scoff too much at the Alpine either. Go climb Timpanogos, Provo Peak, N ridge Pfifferhorn, East Ridge Superior in winter. Bring skis or board for your descent. Utah has the greatest snow on earth and plenty of options from Snowbird to remote backcountry in the Uintas. Just be sure to get educated in avalanche awareness. Their snowpack is not nearly as stable as the PNW. Personally, I like being closer to a bigger airport to get to other places. It's going to be easier to get to ANYWHERE from SLC than Boise. The desert is also a cool place. I wish I had done more canyoneering when I lived there. Much closer than Boise. I miss Utah in many ways. Better winter climate. But i have to be near the salt water and for me the great lake just doesn't cut it. my $.02
  13. Who was the last to summit old Mt. St. Helens?

    I have friends that were on Mt Adams when it blew 5-18-80. They got some pretty awesome photos just before they decided they should run for their lives. I guess it was raining rocks!
  14. I think G3 makes good stuff so they are probably great skis. Still I'd never pay that much! I'll wait until they start showing up at garage sales. I dunno about having "the rev" staring at me all day either.
  15. Sharpening of the tools

    I'd dull those first 10 or 12 teeth even more. Definitely do NOT use a grinder.
  16. West Coast Ice 2 Update: Send Info...

    Sounds like I'll have to leave out of my ice climbing pack: six screws, an extra tool and my water to compensate for the weight of the new book! Nice job Don, can't wait to see it. It's gonna be a great winter for ice, I can feeeeeeel it!
  17. [TR] Mount Constance- West Arete 9/26/2004

    John, I'm happy to review any new description for the W. Arret for the new guidebook. For those people considering Mt. Constance and might be put off by all the reports of scree.....Constance (and most other Olympic climbs) are best done when there is more snow! You can cut times in those areas in 1/2 when you are going up or down snow rather than scree and it's a lot more "fun". Avalanche Canyon bottom is easy filled with snow, sucks when it's all boulders and scree. I soloed Constance in 9.5 hrs once with good snow conditions and I'm a nobody! Think May to July.
  18. Ideas for what to replace my down jacket with?

    IF you want down again and picking up on "don't want to spend a fortune, the LL Bean reversible down jacket is 650 fill and only $69.00.
  19. Fee Demo Extended

    The difference between National Parks and Wilderness areas are the amenities and services provided. Yosemite, Yellowstone, Mt Rainier, Olympic, North Cascades all provide services whether we choose to use them or not. They have administrations to run. Wilderness areas are merely that and there is very little on the land to physically administer that should require user fees. So what am I paying for to go there? Allison, please try to understand, I am not unequivocally against user fees. Just Fee Demo for FS and BLM land. I understand you see Fee Demo as a source for much needed dollars for trail maintenance. But Fee Demo is an albatross. I believe our public lands are just that and should be inclusive. Any time you add a fee to use something,it makes it exclusive. Is that freedom?
  20. Fee Demo Extended

    For all these years, I have expressed my willingness to pay to be in a National Park. Some provide more service than others and how the dollars are split doesn't concern me so much. At least I know all that land is preserved FOREVER to be pristine and unaccosted by loggers, miners, farmers and cattlemen. The NFS and BLM lands are not exclusive to hikers,climbers, skiers, snowmobilers,hunters, fishermen, etc who mostly leave the land unaffected. They are open to loggers, miners, farmers, cattlemen and other entities that radically affect the original shape and condition of the land. At the same time they MAKE MONEY while doing it! Therfore if I pay to use that same land, I am subsidizing their use. Get it? What's the big deal? It's called legal precedence. Imagine now you wish to go boating. But now as you leave your protected harbor there is Larry the Tool in a boat as you enter Puget Sound. Now you must pay to cruise their waters because there are navigational bouys out there and they cost money. But wait, you say, the Coast Gurd maintains them and they are funded as a branch of the government through appropriations. BINGO! Get it now? The National Forest Service is in the business of deciding how every acre of their land is used. We all agree that they don't do the best job, but they are learning and doing the best they can as a branch of the Government. We pay them in taxes. We shouldn't pay them more. BTW, BLM land makes up far more acrage than NFS land. It is far less regulated and therfore abused. If I drive up a forest service road into the Olympic mountains and park at the end and hike on the trail to access a climb, I don't see why I should pay one dime. If I go through the gate to drive up a paved road to Hurricane Ridge where there are services at the top and they plow the road all year, I should pay. To me the Senators Craig (ID-R) and Craig (WY-R) have it right. (surprizing for R's?) It is pretty friggin' clear to me. I can't see any legitimate argument to anything else.
  21. Mt Hood North Face

    Teach me how and I'd be glad to. I just know how to copy/paste a url. I don't know how to change the name to something like "click here" and still make it work.
  22. Fee Demo Extended

    In 1992, Ralph Nader spoke to the University of San Francisco and delivered the following speech: The Decline of Democracy & The Concord Principles http://www.ratical.org/co-globalize/RalphNader/RN05.09.92.html#entry Also in 1992 he delivered a related speech to Harvard Law students; The Citizen Agenda for '92 Disolving the Plutocracy http://www.ratical.org/co-globalize/RalphNader/RN01.15.92.html#entry It doesn't matter what your political preference is or if you think Nader is going to affect the upcoming election again. You should still read this stuff. It goes to show we are facing the same problems we were back in 1992 and before. You can't expect the people who cause a problem to fix it! I'd be curious to know what Nader thinks of Fee Demo!
  23. Building climber does it again!!

    http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/3652502.stm At least this was for a good cause!!! I can relate too.
  24. Rossignol Attaque Telemark Ski & Binding

    CB, you might want to post some specs: length, width (tip,waist, tail)
  25. Mt Hood North Face

    here's a story with link to photos. One of the best climbs I've done recently. Wait for the right conditions. You'll know! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB7&Number=274416&Forum=f7&Words=Chainsaws&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=274416&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=0&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post274416
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