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Well you probably now know more than anyone else alive. Les McDonald was a god. Wonder if any of his climbs around Shuksan have ever been repeated? I had always thought starting at your same spot and then heading straight up the left side of those slabs looked good? But only eyed it once in winter and was probably dreaming. Thanks for resurrecting a 15! Year old Tr. How was the Arayete?

Great photos and trip. Solid work by the whole team. Not sure that coffee should be considered an “accessory” though.

Juan I was pretty much referring to everyone but Sam and Kyle. Who do see when you look in the mirror? the use of Tacos and spending a couple days up there is a pretty cool level of commitment to a new jungly line. Was there water on route? I assume not, so how much did you bring for 3 days? Seems like that follower pack would have been heavy!? Edit to add the Moljinar is a nice touch. Nothing in 40 years has improved on the utility of an old school north wall hammer for Cascade FAs.

A solid retort Rat. As good as Bear, a stout claim, but sounds way to terrifying for me at least.

I like this. That looked like the only route those guys ever put up that was worth repeating. (I won’t delete it but my attempt pithy humor was lame. More accurately “looks like the only route those guys put up that I would be capable of repeating”. I’d add their route on Tower looks pretty sick as well. And I do recall feeling like my secret project had been stolen when they climbed Tilley Towers BITD. apologies to Rat & Lunger as welll as Michael for slightly detailing your excellent TR. carry on….)

Looks like a nice climb. If you invested a couple days cleaning out the munge and adding decent anchors you might have a nice moderate classic on your hands. nice to see all the old timers coming out to comment.

This is a solid TR. Thanks for sharing. Though it may seem otherwise, maybe the golden age of CC.com shall bloom anew.

Read it in your blog. Sounds so casual!

Cool area. Approach via lost creek ridge would add some beauty, effort and if things haven’t changed that much, a big dose of solitude.

Thinning greater than surface area reduction? Less noticeable but seems like one year they’re just going to all suddenly disappear.

Trip: Joffre Creek - Mighty Mouse Trip Date: 07/25/2022 Trip Report: A brief TR for old times sake. Mighty Mouse fully lives up to the hype. The loveliest splitters you’ll ever climb, in a scenic alpine setting with a straightforward approach. the logging road, while getting a bit grown in, is in great shape and mercifully short. The approach trail, though frequently obscured by lush undergrowth, is a wonder. Could use some brushing and flagging but in amazing good shape. Approximately 2 hrs car to base at middle aged pace. the climb is stout. The first pitch is in your face and felt as challenging as the remainder of the climb. 10d/11a pitches all had short, hard cruxes with amazing crack climbing throughout. Excellent ledges for almost every belay with bolted rap anchors. The hand crack eats #2/#3 Camalots. Never climbed a better granite splitter. bring very small rps. We bailed off pitch 8 when partner took a fall and ripped gear. 11 hrs car-to-car. Something to go back for. was 98 degrees in Pemberton and tolerable on the climb in the sun thanks to a breeze. Shade after ~ 2 pm. Gear Notes: Very Small nuts and micro cams. Double rack with at least 3 #3s. Approach Notes: See Mtn project. Would be hard to follow in dark and you’ll get soaked in the am if temps hit the dew point.

West Face or NW Corner of North Early Rebel Yell Hitchhiker with 3 moves of A0

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Somewhere lonesome

We skied those BITD when no one ventured beyond Herman Saddle, Bagely Basin held untracked powder for days, the low elevation snowpack was consistent and deep, Anderson Creek was routinely groomed and we had to slog around on telebindings that didn’t have tour modes. once met a group of three Canadian guys in Anderson Creek on downhill gear. They would routinely end their day of lift skiing by postholing to Herman saddle then ski/skate out Anderson Creek. Don’t see that anymore!

8 failed trips sums up the Sefrit experience pretty good. I still haven’t stood on top. Did your trip many years ago and must have got stymied by the tower. Skiing was horrible. Someday someone has to go climb that buttress. The rock looks surprisingly ok.

Sluiskin was my first significant solo when I was 14 or 15 years old. Mom dropped me off at trailhead and went hiking with Mountaineers to whatever lake is up the carbon river. Rocked out to a cassette player on the hike. I climbed up and down past a roped up party who sternly admonished me. Everyone must have thought we were crazy. I miss those days, when the mountains were new and wonderful, so much.

Cool photos of UTW. Love the ice axe in first photo. Certainly even then there were more appropriate tools?

This is stunning and original

Keep up the CPR. I like mine more.

New Job!??? Is the endless vacation over? This was a very, very good alpine route. And the ease with which the intimidating approach unfolded around the backside was a joy. Glad to have been there before it becomes another crowded classic.

This summer Zigzag, the boat launch wall at Larrabee and a very good route in the Twin Sisters have all been retro bolted. I would assume by three different parties. I’d say it’s a general and growing trend. Drills are cheap and good. Being a route developer is in vogue, rock is a limited resource and our general cultural illness of “don’t tell me what to do” continues to grow. Expect to see a lot more of this in the near future.

I did the Green Circuit this weekend with my daughter. This provided a very different perspective on the objective hazards of traveling though this range. We climbed Jaw Tooth/Skookum and the right side of central arete on Little Sister. While there's lots of solid rock the amount of loose debris on ledges just waiting to get knocked down on your belayer was startling. We dropped our gear to climb Skookum and then rappelled back down the northeast ridge with a single rope which was a very trying experience requiring several simply inadequate rappel anchors. On Little Sister we stayed further right of the supposed bolt anchors and did not find any on the upper ridge. So whatever bolting has occurred appears limited. The Northeast Face of Little Sister now has several piton-based rap anchors. While I've always downclimbed this face previously, these were welcome particularly after the prior days experience. I think the community as a whole would find it unacceptable for guide services (or anyone) to retrobolt existing well-traveled routes so ultimately no one should plan on those bolts still being there in the future, but personally I feel fairly cowed after taking responsibility for someone other than myself out there. One big change seems to be the number of guided groups now accessing Green Creek Valley. On the east side of Little Sister we encountered an AMGA guide certification group as well as a Canadian guide sussing out the range. The appeal is obvious, reasonably easy access a diverse variety of moderate terrain along with I presume a lack of regulation compared to other areas that are increasingly crowded/competitive. The amazing wilderness character of this valley would be seriously compromised if was stacked with multiple large parties every day of the week. I'm considering reaching out to the Forest Service to see if they have or care to have a management plan commercial guiding in the Twins. (And yes I realize the hypocrisy in my concern considering I spent years spraying about this place).

Just amazing. Thank you.

Earth gods Angry Twin Sisters Earthquakes