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layton

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Everything posted by layton

  1. the bivy is at the end of the taller hump of rock in the way distance, just before the downclimb onto the snow.
  2. that last pic hoodie posted is so very cool nice work
  3. at the very least you'll learn how to post like a fratboy/wannabe hiphopster, using cool stuff like "sea kids" and "5 till pump" and "bust some free moves" etc. dude, that's BWRTS and BobbyPeru's dept.
  4. I vote for Erik Wolfe
  5. They appologized for not adding Plan 9, Erik...next time use the "Trip Report" button.
  6. I think that's just a cloud in the 6th picture. The rain and new high pressure system pushed the smoke away almost completely on sunday. After the high pressure settled, the smokey haze came back. Glad i won't be there thurs/fri, but I really hope those fires go out soon!
  7. Climb: Liberty Bell-Freedom Rider Date of Climb: 9/9/2006 Trip Report: Marcus and I recently climbed Freedom Rider on the east face of Liberty Bell. Since there are no TR's on this route, I'll post some useful beta and pics. The Beckey Guide topo and description pretty much says it all. The 3rd pitch has either a 10d traverse, or a hard 5.11 o/w, we took the offwidth. It's very hard, I didn't even come close to freeing it on lead, nor did I try very hard after a pebble become lodged between my shoe and bunion. The route is quite sustained the whole way, even the 5.8 pitches. The 5.8 roof on pitch 8 could be the crux besides the O/W. Did a hold break off? The Medusa Roof was uneventful, however, both Marcus and I were getting severe biceps and brachioradialis cramps from the O/W and sustained climbing. 5.8=5.10 for us around that point. We never saw the Cedar Creek Fire plume, maybe it's under control as the fire crew seemed to be on coffee break in Mazama (not that we were helping any either). So it's a good route, go do it. If you can lead 10's and pull on #5 camalots, you'll get up it. It took us around 9 hours up from the base...most of which were on the o/w. Gear Notes: Gear: 4",4.5", 5" cams (yikes!). The 4" comes in handy elsewhere on the route. Plenty of tiny tiny cams to 2" cams, and one 3" cam. Nuts, tri-cams, rp's. Mega rack basically. 1 60m rope. 12-14 slings and draws. Crampons not needed to get on the route, check from the lookout to see if there's snow. Approach Notes: Only rap with one rope, two ropes get stuck as shit. Descend the regular raps and hike back to your car via blue lake trail and Hwy 20. Pictures (hopefully Marcus will post some too) Smokey Haze The Climb Scenery Sky and Ross a' clamberin'
  8. Justin, listen to this guy. That B6 thing is not your problem...in face B6 can help many folks w/nerve irritation issues. Anyway, whoever you go see, mention the fact you are an asshole motorcycler now too. I think your problem is playing "The Stranger" a bit too much. Welcome to the numb hands club. It's a sign you're actually getting off your ass and overdoing it, even if it is only training.
  9. There will be no next year. Go to rope up so I can have a better chance of replacing a piece of my tattery climbing equipment for free.
  10. Yes. Used on in the winds in bug season and one in a storm with nothing to absorb the river headed towards me. In either situation, it sucks, but since it weighs almost nothing, it beats nothing. I've weathered a few nasty storms in one with ground cover that absorbs water and have been fine. I've also pitched it very low to the ground in bug season and don't get bothered until pre-dawn when I should be getting up anyways.
  11. Cool, sounds like fun! Here is your TR in "summary form" "Did a bunch of crap with the wife so I could do some climbing at Lover's Leap, which was the real (but hidden) adgenda of the trip."
  12. Not mine. They should make Beckey clean up his garbage on the liberty crack bivy ledge.
  13. His latest album rawks, why do you hate America Erik?
  14. I didn't want to dis a route I've never done, but I thought the same thing upon seeing it. "Oh...hmmmm. Uh, coooooool. Lets....er...go do something else over there now"
  15. It specialises in blurry photos taken from miles away with few actual route names, topos or useful beta - including essential descent info - all done in the name of 'preserving the spirit of adventue'. Kesey's "Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains" gets a big It'd like Rolf Larson writting a guidebook for Leavenworth I'd like to see BobbyPeru and BWRTS write a guidebook for the eastside crags..."Dude broseph! Tugs on that route, spliffity zim sham shaham! Fo shizz y'alls foo gots 2 check the aftershow at the digs....dems be crunchy notes yo! "
  16. cuz your pack is so heavy, you have to aid climb?
  17. You'll LOVE the Wind Rivers Guidebook then!
  18. dude, that is a VERY well designed website
  19. lunger and dirtyharry have both climbed it and said yeah fun
  20. pics!
  21. great climb. i posted a very detailed TR with similiar beta. I disagree about the 11a rating, it was 10+ nice jorb
  22. layton

    9/11 questions

    i think the lesson learned from the "loose change" video, is don't believe your government or the media, and question everything. if i believed everything I saw or read, i'd have killed myself somewhere in the middle of "what the bleep do we know" although I felt like killing myself afterwords to get the memory of that garbage outta my skull
  23. layton

    9/11 questions

    whatever, y'all are just a big or bigger gas guzzinling hicks.
  24. The Washington Pass Traverse is a Grade 6 ridge traverse, not a wall climb. There are many places to bail on most ridge traverses of all grades, they are called "cols". How high is the Diamond on Bear? I bet it's easily bailed off of. Still a grade VI? Get my point? Grades I-VII are about legnth of climbing. The Blob route erik and i did was a grade III+ climb with a II ridge traverse to get off. But you gotta do both. However, some climbs are easy to get up and hard to get down...like the Beckey route up Nooksak Tower. With the descent, I'd call it a grade IV, but it's only a grade III getting up it (if that). I only count time climbing where you could fall and die if unroped. So glacier approaches count as part of the climb. Traverses count too. Ridge travereses are the ultimate in contrived routes, but you are climbing the whole time so the regular grades should apply. As far as commitment grades go, man you break your leg doing old snowy in winter, you're way more fucked than on the Nose on El Cap. Old Snowy is still a grade I/II and the Nose is still a grade VI.
  25. there are a few old thread on this, do a search. call the logging company before you go and get shut down at the gate. looks...ok. Descent is gonna be seriously easy. It's hard to figure out what peak is what back there. So pretend you're on route.
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