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Everything posted by layton
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By the way, the old fucker's not dead...yet So hold off on the memorial shit (peak, awards, etc). But if we're gonna play this game, I call his Tim Horton's mug collection.
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the best .11a crack in the lower gorge is the one having the most fun
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go do it Jens and get us out of our box-like thinking
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the bivy is at the end of the taller hump of rock in the way distance, just before the downclimb onto the snow.
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that last pic hoodie posted is so very cool nice work
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at the very least you'll learn how to post like a fratboy/wannabe hiphopster, using cool stuff like "sea kids" and "5 till pump" and "bust some free moves" etc. dude, that's BWRTS and BobbyPeru's dept.
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I vote for Erik Wolfe
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They appologized for not adding Plan 9, Erik...next time use the "Trip Report" button.
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I think that's just a cloud in the 6th picture. The rain and new high pressure system pushed the smoke away almost completely on sunday. After the high pressure settled, the smokey haze came back. Glad i won't be there thurs/fri, but I really hope those fires go out soon!
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Climb: Liberty Bell-Freedom Rider Date of Climb: 9/9/2006 Trip Report: Marcus and I recently climbed Freedom Rider on the east face of Liberty Bell. Since there are no TR's on this route, I'll post some useful beta and pics. The Beckey Guide topo and description pretty much says it all. The 3rd pitch has either a 10d traverse, or a hard 5.11 o/w, we took the offwidth. It's very hard, I didn't even come close to freeing it on lead, nor did I try very hard after a pebble become lodged between my shoe and bunion. The route is quite sustained the whole way, even the 5.8 pitches. The 5.8 roof on pitch 8 could be the crux besides the O/W. Did a hold break off? The Medusa Roof was uneventful, however, both Marcus and I were getting severe biceps and brachioradialis cramps from the O/W and sustained climbing. 5.8=5.10 for us around that point. We never saw the Cedar Creek Fire plume, maybe it's under control as the fire crew seemed to be on coffee break in Mazama (not that we were helping any either). So it's a good route, go do it. If you can lead 10's and pull on #5 camalots, you'll get up it. It took us around 9 hours up from the base...most of which were on the o/w. Gear Notes: Gear: 4",4.5", 5" cams (yikes!). The 4" comes in handy elsewhere on the route. Plenty of tiny tiny cams to 2" cams, and one 3" cam. Nuts, tri-cams, rp's. Mega rack basically. 1 60m rope. 12-14 slings and draws. Crampons not needed to get on the route, check from the lookout to see if there's snow. Approach Notes: Only rap with one rope, two ropes get stuck as shit. Descend the regular raps and hike back to your car via blue lake trail and Hwy 20. Pictures (hopefully Marcus will post some too) Smokey Haze The Climb Scenery Sky and Ross a' clamberin'
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Justin, listen to this guy. That B6 thing is not your problem...in face B6 can help many folks w/nerve irritation issues. Anyway, whoever you go see, mention the fact you are an asshole motorcycler now too. I think your problem is playing "The Stranger" a bit too much. Welcome to the numb hands club. It's a sign you're actually getting off your ass and overdoing it, even if it is only training.
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There will be no next year. Go to rope up so I can have a better chance of replacing a piece of my tattery climbing equipment for free.
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Yes. Used on in the winds in bug season and one in a storm with nothing to absorb the river headed towards me. In either situation, it sucks, but since it weighs almost nothing, it beats nothing. I've weathered a few nasty storms in one with ground cover that absorbs water and have been fine. I've also pitched it very low to the ground in bug season and don't get bothered until pre-dawn when I should be getting up anyways.
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Cool, sounds like fun! Here is your TR in "summary form" "Did a bunch of crap with the wife so I could do some climbing at Lover's Leap, which was the real (but hidden) adgenda of the trip."
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first ascent [TR] The Mythical Bellingham Big Wall- 7/21/2005
layton replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Not mine. They should make Beckey clean up his garbage on the liberty crack bivy ledge. -
His latest album rawks, why do you hate America Erik?
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I didn't want to dis a route I've never done, but I thought the same thing upon seeing it. "Oh...hmmmm. Uh, coooooool. Lets....er...go do something else over there now"
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It specialises in blurry photos taken from miles away with few actual route names, topos or useful beta - including essential descent info - all done in the name of 'preserving the spirit of adventue'. Kesey's "Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains" gets a big It'd like Rolf Larson writting a guidebook for Leavenworth I'd like to see BobbyPeru and BWRTS write a guidebook for the eastside crags..."Dude broseph! Tugs on that route, spliffity zim sham shaham! Fo shizz y'alls foo gots 2 check the aftershow at the digs....dems be crunchy notes yo! "
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[TR] Torment-Forbidden Traverse- Torment-Forbidden
layton replied to SmilingWhiteKnuckles's topic in North Cascades
cuz your pack is so heavy, you have to aid climb? -
You'll LOVE the Wind Rivers Guidebook then!
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dude, that is a VERY well designed website
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lunger and dirtyharry have both climbed it and said yeah fun