layton

great climb. i posted a very detailed TR with similiar beta. I disagree about the 11a rating, it was 10+ nice jorb

i think the lesson learned from the "loose change" video, is don't believe your government or the media, and question everything. if i believed everything I saw or read, i'd have killed myself somewhere in the middle of "what the bleep do we know" although I felt like killing myself afterwords to get the memory of that garbage outta my skull

whatever, y'all are just a big or bigger gas guzzinling hicks.

The Washington Pass Traverse is a Grade 6 ridge traverse, not a wall climb. There are many places to bail on most ridge traverses of all grades, they are called "cols". How high is the Diamond on Bear? I bet it's easily bailed off of. Still a grade VI? Get my point? Grades I-VII are about legnth of climbing. The Blob route erik and i did was a grade III+ climb with a II ridge traverse to get off. But you gotta do both. However, some climbs are easy to get up and hard to get down...like the Beckey route up Nooksak Tower. With the descent, I'd call it a grade IV, but it's only a grade III getting up it (if that). I only count time climbing where you could fall and die if unroped. So glacier approaches count as part of the climb. Traverses count too. Ridge travereses are the ultimate in contrived routes, but you are climbing the whole time so the regular grades should apply. As far as commitment grades go, man you break your leg doing old snowy in winter, you're way more fucked than on the Nose on El Cap. Old Snowy is still a grade I/II and the Nose is still a grade VI.

there are a few old thread on this, do a search. call the logging company before you go and get shut down at the gate. looks...ok. Descent is gonna be seriously easy. It's hard to figure out what peak is what back there. So pretend you're on route.

name dropper!

Dude, sweet coat of arms you got there. Did you get rour den mother to sign you off on your Mountain Skills merit badge? I make up for my uncultured beer tastes by drinking more of it

Why aren't there pics of Roger STRONG then? I had a full-color dream about those three guys...you were there, and you were there, and even YOU were there. Miles was ice climbing w/o a helmet, Sean backed off on lead, and Roger couldn't pull the moves. I believe the route was Yellow Brick Road in Marble Canyon. They were trying to get me home to the USA.

King Cobra, 89c for a 24 oz can

As a friend of mine once said, "If it hasn't been climbed by now there's probably a reason why". yup, cuz y'all are a bunch of pussies, copy of select vol I+II in hand

good question...i'd like to know too

i'll set my alarm early (5am) then.

i really don't like most "micro-beers"..give me a headache. I love PBR, Hams, and Olympia. The "micro" I do like is pilsner urquell

yeah, i know i just posted a question (with lovely answers) about the enchantments. just trying to keep the rangers guessing....

I'm thinkin of doing Goode's NE Buttress this long w/end with my girlfriend and am trying to think of a logical way to bivy on the summit w/o making one day waaaay to long. Can anyone give my (est) approach times to a.)the bivy spot below the route b.)from the bivy to the summit assuming simuling the whole thing and moving pretty quick. I thought maybe 6 hours to the bivy, 6 hours up. p.s. this is approaching from Hwy 20, not Lake Chelan. gracias

I like Darin's alpine banana climbing action suit

but look out for those "timebombs" on Libery (aka DEATH) Crack.

oh yeah. usually someone's camped right in the middle of the trail, blocking that sign. i realized that i've gone over a year without hiking the colchuck lake trail. "hello my name is Mike, and I can't go a year without somehow hiking the Colchuck Lake Trail." Who knows, maybe there's a new stick or something on the trail this year.

what shitter? or are you talking about the place in general?

you're a bit late on that for Clean Break if you wanna do some hardcore downgrading. Or maybe you'll actauly find that mystery 10c pitch, find 15 pitches of climbing at a grade V legnth, and do the wild crack finish (i think it's under a few rocks at the top if you poke around).

There is water in the east side of burgandy col below the perm snow fields of either burgundy if you're luck, or below chianti if you're kinda lucky, or def below silverstart. Bring x-tra gas in case there aren't trickles off the ice. and bring and x-tra pair of socks when you're done with the looseness back up the pass. Water below the w.face of silverstar will be harder to find, so if you do that route 1st, just carry a couple x-tra liters for the 1st night and go up and over the col for more aqua the 2nd night.

Fern, there are a lot of good cracks up on Vasiliki, but discontinous (i think). If you're gonna try a new route, bring a small alpine bolt kit. The only other route i know of up there is Never Enough, which may or may not be any good. Carlos Rossi kinda sux, especially the death o/w. I still have a scar from that one. There is (i believe) a snowpatch below clean break that might still be alive up there. You'll probably have to chop and melt. But Jordan and I camped at the base in August and were able to find water and a great campspot. So it's a gamble i guess. Do not camp in the basin below. Although it has water, it's a buggy swamp.

oh yeah...those little boys pants crumpled up and wet by the lake that we "Found"...that's right...we "found" those.

Wasn't me! Glad y'all think our route is fun. It wouldn't nearly be so cool if it wasn't in the Sisters range or awesome unique rock...well actually besides the 1st pitch, it's really fun asthetic climbing.

Fern, All the routes on Vasiliky and the Wine Spires are EASILY done in a day. Try Mark and my route on Burgundy and downgrade it for us please!