CascadeClimber

I'd cheerfully take the old Capital Hill store over the crappy new "Ark of Consumerism". What a sad story.

A minor clarification: mtncommunity.org is not my site. I am simply one member of a group of about ten who self-organized to create and administer it. And, for what it is worth, and as I've said before, I agree with MattP. -CC

Thanks. I added some pics to the Ice Cliff TR tonight. More to come... -CC

Marmot is closing out their Arroyo 30 degree down bag from last year for $169. It stuffs into the smallest OR stuff sack and weighs less that my big down jacket. Since I bought it I haven't had my -5 Aguille off the hanger. Also, I agree with using down for short blitzes around here and snythetic for longer trips. If you feel you must go out and do battle with the elements, then go with synthetic. Otherwise get down and spend the rainy days with the fam or at the bar. -CC

Well this isn't exactly climbing related, but after spending well over two hours installing IIS "hotfixes" last weekend (when I could have been climbing) I found this little tool: http://www.microsoft.com/Downloads/Release.asp?ReleaseID=24168 It is pathetic that it even exists, but I guess it is better than getting hacked. But don't worry, I'm sure that security/bugs will not be a problem with the next version of their server OS. -CC

"No pain, no pain." In college I had a poster of a fat guy (complete with the gut hanging over his belt)sitting on a keg and that was the caption. As I get older I'm starting to see the wisdom. -CC

Amen, Rodchester. I'll add that I think Dryloft is a good investment. It adds some warmth, helps protect from those "Oh-shit" spills in the tent, and makes the bag much more friendly during a bivy without tent or bivy sack. -CC

Climbed it with two others on July 3. The route is in great shape, and the Coleman Headwall also looks good. Full TR here: http://cascadeclimber.com/north_ridge1.htm

Dan- It is pretty moderate and loose. There is quite a bit of 4th with some low to mid 5th mixed in. The approach is long. It isn't a route that I'll repeat. Full TR and some pics here: http://cascadeclimber.com/west_ridge.htm Cheers- CC

Before I get flamed I want to be perfectly clear that Mr. Loren S. is *not* this Loren, aka CascadeClimber. -CC

We passed the ice cliff on the left, the large middle crevasse near the middle of the glacier, and the schrund back toward the left. We stayed on the left side of the couloir until we split off onto the right branch near the top. The cornice is gone. The descent down the Sherpa was pretty straightforward. Oddly, we saw zero spontaneous rock or ice fall the entire day. YMMV. Full TR here: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/mount_stuart.htm Pictures up by the end of the week. -CC

My two cents: Yes, an occassional joke is funny. But lately almost every thread has deteriorated into inane banter, frequently at the expense of the original poster. It is nice to have some spice in my food, but when it is over-seasoned everyone just ends up sick. And if you don't like the thread getting moved to Spray, then don't spray in the thread. Believe it or not, there are some people who do frequent this site for beta and help, not humor of marginal quality. I'm one of them. This site used to get some great posts from local legends. But in the last four months they have disappeared. Too bad for us that we lose the chance to interact with the Nelsons and Skoogs of the world. -CC

One Day: Yes, it is possible, and it is a long day when the road is open all the way to the trailhead, which it is not. You will be walking the road for several miles, at least. My advice: Skip the rope, take the axe and crampons, take two days, and enjoy. -CC

I'm headed down that way in a week to try Jefferson (Jefferson Park glacier) and the Three Sisters (from Pole Creek). Any beta on current conditions would be greatly appreciated. -CC

This is the guide referenced in the post above. Don't be fooled by his humble nature- he is a serious badass and a great teacher. http://www.angelfire.com/ak4/HighIceAk/ -CC

Footnote: I did manage to find a shop in Vancouver with the stuff I want. However, the price of the stuff was the same (exactly) there as here, even with the phenomenal exchange rate. So, if the rate ever drops back down to $1.25C/$1.00US (or so), Arc'teryx gear will actually be less expensive in the US. Go figure. -CC

Hey you Canucks- Can any of you tell me which shops in Vancouver (or nearby vicinity) carry Arc'Teryx soft goods? I'm interested in picking up a new set of Goretex. MEC carries their packs, but not Gtex. -CC

Well, CC the gear gumby is at it again. Sometime in early April I made an evening hike up Tiger and left my green Marmot Gtex jacket in the OSAT meeting area near the top of West Tiger 3. I really need to get the jacket back, and would be quite appreciative if the person who found it would step forward. Feeling disgusted with myself- CC

Well, CC the gear gumby is at it again. Sometime in early April I made an evening hike up Tiger and left my green Marmot Gtex jacket in the OSAT meeting area near the top of West Tiger 3. I really need to get the jacket back, and would be quite appreciative if the person who found it would step forward. Feeling disgusted with myself- CC

Ah, change the view setting from "Last 45 (or 30, or whatever) Days" to "Show All". -CC

You might try looking over in the Personal Climbing Sites section here. I also recommend http://www.cascadeclimber.com. I know the guy that runs it, he is okay. -CC

I hear there is already a route up there, but it is pretty moderate because it is a jug-fest. -CC

Without endorsing or condemning the route or people involved, here is a link to the topo: Condorphamine topo -CC [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 04-21-2001).]

That is unfortunate. From a learning from mistakes standpoint, I'd like to hear about any more info. Also, it is interesting to me how precisely wrong they were about the height of the mountain. Hopefully the rest of the report is more accurate. -CC

Anyone have any recent beta from this road and the trail to the ridge? I'm contemplating a little outing there this weekend, but we need to ba able to drive to the road and make good time to treeline. Any recent info appreciated. -CC