CascadeClimber

You forgot: Is a mega-hottie, making all my dirtbag climber-dude friends jealous *and* totally enamoured of me: She isn't going fall for any of said dirtbag climber-dudes. But that's just speculation. What would a guy who just had his 11th wedding anniversary know?

How about charge $500/night and provide bell-hop service for my gear to Muir, an attendant in the shitter, hot tubs at all high camps, and a 1:1 ranger-climber ratio so a ranger can hold my hand from the shitter to the hot tub and tuck me into bed? It's a volcano in a national park. Can't we let it be wild????? I wasn't at the meeting, but did they ask if climbers *want* a higher level of service? -L

I hereby nominate this thread as the Super-Gaper Thread of the Year.

I predict it will be skied in the next 18 months. But I could be wrong.

I just ordered a Dell Ultrasharp 2000FP for the wife. Shut up! It is for her! So what if I had my initials engraved on it. I want Santa to bring me: 1. Some new skis and skins (not that that would help my skiing at all). 2. A nice balance of snow and ice for the winter season. 3. Some fine, fat, blue ice somewhere within a six hour drive and a two hour approach. Santa, can you say Drury? 4. The continued understanding of my wife for me wanting to spend large amounts of my free time wet, cold, and scared in the company of odiferous men (DBB- you're last in line next time). 5. Ditto for my wife's parents. 6. A snowplow visiting the Phair Creek road on a regular basis. 7. A few more days of skiing with my oldest daughter, now 5. 8. Business results like the last half of this year.

Tim, those freshiez look a little damp at the moment. But that only qualifies it more as a Northwest Winter Scene.

That's funny. I thought pitches 2 and 10 looked remarkably similar.

Crystal: Timberline: Mission Ridge: Wet snow, flat light, high wind, zero vis: Winter at last.

I couldn't resist. Micron sucks.

Duuude- you should have gotten a Dell! -L

One of a kind, so far: INFJ 33, 56, 44, 22

That pretty much changes the nature of No Deductible. I wonder if this practice will someday be regarded like chipping holds on rock routes. But I guess trapsing all over those trails in crampons has a significant effect on the runoff pattern, too.

Today.. Morning fog patches. Otherwise cloudy with 70 percent chance of showers late in the day afternoon. Snow level 900 metres. High 5. Tonight.. Cloudy with 70 percent chance of showers. Snow level 800 metres. Low 2. Tuesday.. Cloudy with 70 percent chance of showers. Snow level rising to 1200 metres by afternoon. Wind becoming south 30 km/h. High 7. Wednesday.. Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. Low 2. High 6. Thursday.. Cloudy with showers. Low 4. High 8. Friday.. Rain. Low 4. High 8. WTF? That's 47F on Friday?? From December 15, 2001:

That Aztech thing looks familiar. Where have I seen it before... Oh yeah: And the climber's version:

I have a 95 4Runner that I bought with 37,000 and now has 120,000. It has been a great, reliable car. Repairs are much less frequent that my previous Big-3 cars (including a Jeep CJ7 and a Fiero), but Toyota parts and repair work are expensive. I was also concerned about the head gasket issue, which affects the 4Runners through 1995, but I was told by Michael's Toyota in Bellevue that the factory has agreed to cover head gasket repairs of affected vehicles regardless of age or mileage. As to price, I got so sick of the inflated prices in the Puget Sound area that I ended up buying my 4Runner in Bend, Oregon. I think I bought it in 1998 and paid $17,500. Similar vehicles here were in the $25k range.

Hackmeister, you're working in a heterogenous environment, which is the exception, not the norm. You can't plug you Mac into a Windows 2000 Domain and logon without some configuration work. Sure, you can probably pick up an IP address from a DHCP or BOOTP server and load web pages, but that won't get you access to permission-restricted network resources. On an average day my laptop is attached to 4-6 networks (wireless and wired, Win2k and WinNT domains), without rebooting or any other such hassle. Thankfully, all OSes have gotten more robust and user friendly in the last few years. I was a Mac evangelist for years. I gave up not because of anything Apple did (though they did and do lots of stupid things), but because of Office 4.2 for the Mac, which was Windows code running in an interpreter. It crashed the machine over and over and I couldn't get any work done. Damn MS. I understand that the latest version of Mac Office is nice, but what happens when you need to use an Access database? As with most things in life, the bottom line here is this: Opinions are like assholes: Everyone has one, and everyone thinks their's is the only one that doesn't stink. -L Oh yeah, I agree 100% on the mega/giga/terra/google-hertz overhype. Unless you are doing major number crunching, as in video rendering, you don't need the latest, greatest, most fastest wonder widget with the highest number. And, a 1Ghz CISC (Intel et al) processor is not as fast (in most cases) as a 1Ghz RISC (Mac) processor. Now, isn't there some ice to climb by now?!?

Look at me, I figured out the quote thing. Dell has good product. Not without problems, but good. Easier to deal with than the HP-Compaq monster, and much more likely to exist in three years than Gateway and Micron. I buy Dell for my clients, I buy Dell for my business, and I buy Dell for home. But If I didn't have to interact with the rest of the electronic world, I'd own a Mac. Wintel may not have the best product(s) in a pure sense, but they are, sadly, the best solution in most situations today. -L

Try to find one (new or used) with a decent warranty. Otherwise you'll be SOL when (not if) it breaks. My clients have a lot of laptops and the ones that get moved around a lot have little things go wrong with them. There is risk in spending too little. You don't need a Mercedes, but you don't want a Yugo, either. There should be some kicking sales post-Christmas. -L

Why can my small brain not discover how to "reply with quote"??? Don't situate the belay directly below the line of climbing for the next pitch. Regardless, a leader fall onto the belay is going to be highly unpleasant for everyone involved, regardless of position, rope system, how much Smoker-custom-roast-espresso you had that morning, or how many hail-Marys you said the night before. Perhaps the best position is with your head tucked between your knees so you can kiss your ass goodbye. So leaders, get a damn screw in to protect the belay on multipitch ice routes. Can it please get cold now so we can stop talking about ice and start climbing it?!?!?!?!?!

So getting back to the original issue, if the force introduced into the system by the falling climber is constant, who can tell us where the additional compensating force comes from? Bueller? Anyone?

Overall it is 1-1, but the effect on either load alone is 0.5-1, I think. Did this thread have something to do with climbing??

If L1<>L2, then 2-1, I think. If L1=L2, then 1-1??

But what about the friction in the system, and the force of gravity on the anchor points and the rope, and hydrogen bonds between the sheaves and the rope, and what about the moon and its gravitational effect and...ouch. I think I just hurt myself.

The first looks like a Z-pulley, 3-1. The second looks like a form of a C-on-a-Z, 6-1. Do I pass?