dbconlin

rose colored lenses are pretty versatile for skiing. I always choose amber for sunglasses - great in bright sun and in variable conditions.

monoskis and/or inflatables are definitely the way to go in the b/c.

I used to wear bibs (I admit). They are old Marmot version and I honestly could not imagine winter climbing without similar. I was fully intending to replace them with the pricey ARc'Teryx model when I could afford it. In the meantime, I picked up a pair of Patagonia Super Guide softshell pants. Now I don't want bibs anymore. ...And I know best... If you are intent on bibs, but haven't tried softshell, you may want to reconsider.

With the limited info, I would say: Pack - choose one about 55 - 60 liters, that will get you through most. Check out BD, Cilogear, ... Boots - for an all around boot, I would look at an insulated leather (e.g., La Sportiva Lhotse). Of course if you are serious you will want multiple boots and the insulated leather will work its way to the bottom of the heap. If you could have 2 boots, I would recommend 1 plastic (e.g., Scarpa Omega) and 1 lightweight leather (e.g., La Sportiva Trango Extreme or Trango S). There are lots of other similar options, and it will depend on your foot and availability. Check out La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mad Rock, Garmont, Kayland

Hey, how did you get permits? Same day lottery at the USFS? Advanced? Nice climbing and photos, BTW.

How about contacts? I use disposable ones (like the 2 week-1month kind). I can stash an extra pair for almost zero added weight or bulk. If you don't want to wear them on a daily basis, you can also get the 1-day disposables, only for use when climbing or other sports. I have a friend who wears 1-day disposables for a couple of weeks, saving much $$ over throwing them away every day. On multi-day climbs, I just leave my contacts in, bring a micro-dropper bottle with artificial tears to rewet upon awakening. Contacts have the further advantage of being able to use regular sunglasses. I guess they are not for everyone though. Some people can't get over the "feel" of them in your eye or putting them in taking them out. I thought so at first, but if you just stick with it you will not notice them anymore.

Ditto. Add to that just be in good shape and you will enjoy it more.

Nice trip! Fun times! The weather sounds like typical Rocky Mountain summertime patterns, i.e. short thunderstorms in the PM sandwiched between stellar weather in the AM and evening. Often if you are unable to summit before the thunderstorms, you can simply wait it out on a ledge for 20-30 minutes then continue on your merry way (the rock usually dries quite fast). The danger, of course, being that either a.) they don't subside quickly enough, or b.) you get hit by lightening.

Wow! Survivors... way to go!

Nice write-up! Now about those photos...

That sack looks like the bomb! Definitely where I would be headed if in the market.

Yeah, the owner, with a leash. i had that thought too, what the hell was the owner thinking? Good boy, f'ing T-Mobile/Giant are going down!

I agree with most of these, if not for safety reasons, for lack of any good reason to go there. Hilltop, however, is not the place it used to be. Lots of young, middle class couples and families moving there, much remodeling of older houses, etc. People used to say not to go to the Central District in Seattle, too, but look at it now. I think hilltop is moving in a similar direction (although perhaps 15-20 years behind). Anyway, all the good restaurants that I would suggest have been mentioned, so I will just add COFFEE. COFFEE: Firehouse at the corner of 6th ave and Union is far and away the best coffee I have had in Tacoma. Go there. Other viable options (in order of preference) are: Blackwater Cafe between 7th and 9th on Fawcett (downtown) and Cutters Point on Pacific Ave near the University of Tacoma and on 6th ave really far west.

Thanks for sharing. Great photos! From my own (and few) solo adventures, I have noticed that I tend to second-guess my decisions a lot when alone, usually in regards to route finding or objective hazard assessment. When there is someone else there to kind of double-check what you are thinking it makes it so much easier. "Yeah, we agree, lets do it!" versus "should I or shouldn't I" or "this way or that" all by yourself.

As in if you could own one set of tool? What are you getting at? I think it depends on what you are looking for... are you shopping for an all around ice tool or are you planning on just water ice action and no alpine stuff...? I am interested in further insight into this question. Let's say for alpine mixed and waterfall ice, perhaps an all-around tool...

OUCH! that's the same price they were when new. I thought the old cobras were $269, which I thought was plenty steep enough. Either way, I reiterate my previous sentiment, which is...OUCH!

I like my BDs except for the button locks on the lower sections - they're very difficult to collapse to begin with but on a cold outting they're nearly impossible. Might just be my particular poles (lemons?). The newer BDs I've seen are all Flik-loc I think I have all Flik-loc BD poles. I can't complain but they are definitely NOT the lightest. The newest BD 3-section poles have a button lock on the lowest section , which is the problem referred to above, except the carbon fiber ones which appear to have 2 flick-locks. The lightest current offering from BD are 2 carbon fiber models at 17 oz, FYI.

not sure about those grips though...don't look to comfy I concur.

Thanks for the TR. Looks like quite an adventure. I am hoping to get on that route myself soon and appreciate the beta...!

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!

My advice is to not waste your fuel (and time) boiling snowmelted water and to not camp at Muir.

OUCH!

but, why? Make your own. I like mine better than the spring leash that Grivel used to offer (based on side by side comparison).

Trip: Eldorado - West Arete (kind of) Date: 7/7/2007 Trip Report: Scott Gullberg and I approached Eldorado via the standard (brutal) trail on Friday night and bivied on the Eldorado Glacier. Then, on Saturday, we climbed the West Arete (kind of). I say kind of, because the start kind of eluded us. Nelson says to go up the gully (snow in early season) to the ridge crest and climb mid-5th class up from there. We checked out several potential starts that sounded vaguely like what was described, but none of them were really compelling to us and we kept looking for the correct start by climbing up the snowfield on the left (north) side of the Arete. Eventually we realized we definitely weren't on the right track but since we didn't know exactly what among the options we had passed would be any better, decided to just start climbing up the face toward the ridge, and knowingly traverse onto the route from higher up. We ended up climbing some pretty sketchy 4th-class with lots of loose rocks, loose dirt, and moss. After about 5 pitches we gained the ridge crest and, thus, the route, probably about halfway up. Some nice 5th class pitches lied directly above us and we gladly climbed these on sound rock with nice face and crack climbing. Two pitches later, we arrived at the summit of a minor gendarme separated from the continuing ridge line by a steep snowy col. We changed over to boots and crampons and simul-climbed across it to the rock on the far side. One more change into rock shoes and we simul-climbed the remaining 4th class rock via significantly more solid albeit blocky and ledgy terrain in two long pitches to the summit. Right as we approached the summit, the clouds rolled in and what had been stellar weather all day was reduced to 50 foot visibility. Nonetheless, the summit of Eldo was pretty spectacular and the descent down the East Ridge went smooth and quick. We spent another night at our camp and Sunday morning Scott ran up the East Ridge for another summit while I slept in. I was just too tired. Then we deproached in about half the time as the approach, although it was almost equally brutal (in my opinion). Good Food, in Marblemount, was closed so we had to drive on in search of burgers. We ended up settling for 'breakfast only' a little further down the road, but I got my burger fix at Dicks in Seattle later. All in all a good route, but I recommend finding the correct start unless you enjoy the sketch. And the approach is a necessary evil, too. How 'bout some switchbacks...? Pics: Approach Notes: Brutal, but straightforward. Bring trekking poles.

um. i still have to go with one hammer and one adze.