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Ade

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Everything posted by Ade

  1. I have the mens version of this boot. Don't be put off by the price. If it fits your foot it'll be worth it. It's the best full weight mountaineering and ice climbing boot I've used. Ade
  2. That's what we said last year when things came in in mid-Dec...
  3. This just isn't a good way to save money. For two reasons: 1) You only have one head. 2) You still only have one head. I thought this was such a good point it was worth mentioning twice. There's a ton of other ways to save money that don't make brain damage more likely. I'm sure you can figure them out. Cheers, Ade
  4. Lots more to do here! But like Baring, Mount Index is low so don't count on anything coming in. Index-Persis Cirque
  5. I"ve tried Perpetuum - my only issue is that it tastes gross. I just can't drink it. Any other good alternatives?
  6. AT $319 presumably they come with a free "They saw me coming" badge? WTF.
  7. Yeah they suck in cold weather. After a couple of years of messing around with them I've pretty much given up and gone back to an XGK for winter.
  8. Been on my list for ages. Jim's winter ascent got a small write up in Beckey I believe.
  9. I have a Grivel Trigger I picked up last year, just before all the ice melted I should put it on. The Strikes didn't look like they'd fit.
  10. The shock cord means you have less leash dangling around getting tangled on things. You could just use some lengths of accessory cord but it would have to be longer than the shock corded leashes.
  11. Itg might seem that way but trust me it's not.
  12. Where are you getting those killer deals on that stuff?! Last time I looked The Dead Bird was trying to take you for nearly TWICE that. Basically it's completely rediculous. I try and buy all my alpine clothing on sale.
  13. For climbing ice weight matters. You need enough force behind the pick to get it to penetrate the ice - waterfall or alpine. If the tool is light then you'll have to swing it harder. Ice tools are one of the few cases where lighter may not be better. The light wings will work much better in the cane position that the Quarks which isn't an issue if you climb steep routes. On more moderate terrain with lots of steep softish neve the Quarks aren't going to work real well. I've now put in two alpine seasons on the Quarks and wouldn't go back. I've also used the Grivels and didn't like them. It largely comes down to personal preference and the type of climbing you think you'll be doing. If you really want to save weight take your summer bag on winter routes... it'll save you a couple of POUNDS!
  14. If it's yours PM me with a description. Ade
  15. My experience with the Beal/BD Icelines is they're great but maybe not super durable. Details here.
  16. Climb: Waddington Range-Various Date of Climb: 8/16/2006 Trip Report: Chaos Peak, S Ridge Couplet Towers, E Ridge Serra Three, Buszowski-Kippan Integrale Mount Shand, The Madness of 'King' George Couloir Unicorn Peak, SW Ridge Full trip report and pictures here ... Gear Notes: All the usual suspects... alpine rock and ice rack. Espresso machine BFB. Approach Notes: Helicopter
  17. As a friend of mine once said, "If it hasn't been climbed by now there's probably a reason why".
  18. Leaving Redmond around 3. Anyone interested? PM me if you are. I'd like to do a bunch more of the 9s and maybe try some 10s. Cheers, Ade
  19. Anyone planning on going into the Wadd this summer. We're a party of two looking for another group to partner with to make flights more economical. We plan to head in the w/e of 12th August and fly out two weeks later on the w/e of the 26th. Not looking for climbing partners just someone to share the ride. PM me if you're interested. Cheers, Ade
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