Ade

See this thread

We got some photos from U of Alaska in the end. Not cheap, we had to use the "rush order" service when they told us that doing contact prints of three BW negs (a trivial process) was going to take SIX weeks.

Do it every time I go out in winter, still have all my hair etc. The idea isn't new and it's certainly not Mr T's.

Alphas aren't the warmest double boots out there but they have a low profile which makes them a pretty good climbing boot. Adding more socks may not make your feet any warmer if they restrict circulation.

Some of the rocks are 10 minutes from the square. The En Vau is a bit further and used to be accessed by boat from the Cassis harbour. En Vau is pretty impressive - narrow gorge lots of big routes. We camped in the gorge but even then it wasn't allowed, already full of dobbers. I suspect by now that wouldn't be such a great idea. You could take the boat from town every morning. I was there a long time ago so things might have changed. Did you go to En Vau sobo? Seems like they've developed more climbing in the last 15 years.

Right. I don't think the ice is exactly ubiquitous.

Nice Job! PICTURES!!!

Software Developer... After 40 hours of meaningless, counterproductive bullshit you'll be wallowing in so much self hate that winter alpine climbing will seem the sensible thing to do with what little time remains.

It's going to suck Mike. Stay at home

The Vasque Andinista might be a good compromise between leather and more traditional plastic but I've never found anyone who really stocks them.

This may be true but I've never seen any numbers to support it. When I bought my lightweight boots I posted here asking if anyone had any data on how long the GTX membrane in a boot is expected/designed to last.

Entertaining but somewhat off topic States/Provinces can be found here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/438714/an/0/page/0#438714 There was some sort if issue with Biblers and fire retardant. I'm sure that someone told me Biblers were fire retardant coated and it was worth washing them to remove some of this.

If this is going turn into a pissing match about the number of states in the US please do it in Spray. Thx.

This is really more of a summer boot. I really wouldn't write off leathers on the basis of your experience with these. They're uninsulated with a thin sole and only take a strap on crampon, all of which will result in cold feet. Those "voting" for leathers are doing so on the basis of a much heavier leather boot in winter.

You have these? http://www.sportiva.com/products/mountaineering/trangos.html

I'm told if you want warm then the K4S is the thing to go for but it's bulkier than the Nepal Extreme. It has more insulation and a better mid sole insulation. What makes you think the Evo Gtx will be any warmer than the Extremes? The Evo is a lot lighter and designed to climb better but from the specs it didn't seem to be any warmer. As for cost. A $400 boot that gets used for it's whole lifetime soon cost averages to a pretty cheap piece of gear on a $/day basis.

Freneys - Right. If you're going to compare leathers to plastics then at least pick a reasonably full weight leather like the Nepal or Scarpa Cumbre or Boreal G2(?). What boots do you have now? They why ask It's all about fit. Even more so with a plastic boot, it's not going to form to your foot like a leather or break in. If it don't fit on day one it's never going to. There are only like half a dozen to choose from. Go try them all on and pick the one that fits and climbs best. The Alphas definitely have the lowest profile so probably climb the best but are maybe not as durable.

Why not GTX. I've never been that convinced by its durability in a boot. Typical GTX boots tend to be made of synthetic materials with the GTX membrane sandwiched inside it. I've always figured that the membrane is going to get mangled pretty quickly and then you're left with a boot that's not leather and hard to waterproof. But then my personal preference these days seems to be approach shoes or those boots, lightweight crampons and plastic shopping bags for waterproofing on glaciers when cramponing.

I think it depends a bit on the leather boot your talking about. I have a pair of Nepal Extremes that while not quite as warm as a pair of plastics climb significantly better. Snowshoes and skis with leathers are going to suck, but like skiing in plastics doesn't. The lighter the leather boot the more pronounced the difference from plastics. I'm with Alex - I've never worn my plastics climbing in the PNW (did Rainier in leathers - got cold feet, so what). I think the only advantages plastics have is that they're easier to dry on multi day trips and they warmer if it's really cold. So for the Cascades you don't get as much out of them as you would elsewhere. For my money the Invernos climb about as well as a ski boot. But maybe I just don't get a good fit. Everyone I know with Alphas seems to like them. I have large feet so can't wear them. So take your choice. If you do a lot of 1-2 day drips in the Cascades then leathers might be for you, especially if you're choosy with your weather windows. If you're into long trips and bad weather or you spend a lot of time in the Rockies in winter then look at some plastics.

I too have a Hydrogen. I also wanted to look at the WM but couldn't find it anywhere. I've used the Marmot in the Cascades in winter and for it's rating I thought it was plenty warm.

Erm... the ones that fit your feet. Seriously, go out and try on a bunch of pairs. Some of the obvious contenders have already been mentioned here. I have a pair of the "and should last forever" No lightweight boot is going to last forever. You just traded durability for weight. I have a pair of the non-GTX Garmonts (never been much of a believer in GTX boots) and they're pretty nice. Not waterproof but fine for summer and lightweight crampons. The toe is pretty narrow though.

Hole for water bladder tube.

It's "Alaska a Climbing Guide" Michael Wood and Colby Coombs. To be honest there's only 4-5 pages on the Brooks Range for the area you mention, although it does cover Mt Michelson and Chamberlin. There's also about the same amount on the Arrigetch Peaks. You might want to check it out in the Library before shelling out for it. link

Nah it must go up from the lowest point of the buttress to the climbers left from NYG.

Shit! I've done seven of those.