DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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It is kind of a toss up, I like and dislike certain things about both tools.
The Cobras are the most naturally swinging tool I have ever used. Just beautiful - swings from the shoulder like a great framing hammer. The down side is the hammers/adzes are tiny and the laser cut picks are inferior to Petzl's forged designs. Add bigger hammers/adzes and the swing is not as well balanced.
The Quark requires the Charlet-Moser/Petzl wrist flick/elbow drop thing. For me, not as natural as the Cobra and is too light without head weights. The hammer and adze are smaller than I like but better than BD's. If they had made the hammer and adze bigger (heavier) the tool would be better balanced for pure ice climbing IMNSHO.
I recently bought Quarks because I found them on sale for $199 each. I'm still looking for the head weights from my old Pulsars. I'm sure I have them somewhere...
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I have a winter bag that I could part with:
Feathered Friends Widgeon
Regular length
Epic W/B shell
800+ fill
2 oz overfill
Conservatively rated to - 15, used to -30 on Denali
Lightweight and compressible for its warmth 3 lbs, 4 oz
Used twice (Denali and Aconcagua)
$450
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A geologist and sometime climber I worked with told me the only true granite in Washington State is at Washington Pass. Index, Leavenworth, the Enchantments, the Stuart Range, and Darrington are all composed of white grandiorite.
Just to add to the discussion, I really like cam hooks.
Sweet, just ordered a new cam hook set for Wa Pass... Just gotta make sure to keep it away from that uber choss pile over at Index..
I climbed the Early Winters Couloir route in fantastic conditions; beautiful water ice, fun mixed cruxes topped off with a 20 foot cornice. To surmount the cornice I aided the left hand wall and nailed a flake with a KB. The flake broke off and landed in my lap. I nailed the stump, stepped onto the KB which rotated 90 degrees to face straight down but held. Awesome rock.
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A geologist and sometime climber I worked with told me the only true granite in Washington State is at Washington Pass. Index, Leavenworth, the Enchantments, the Stuart Range, and Darrington are all composed of white grandiorite.
Just to add to the discussion, I really like cam hooks.
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I just looked up "sponge bath" on urban dictionary. I'm not sure if I would visit a lookout again after seeing something like that.
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I always assumed stuck pro was the fault of the leader.
I was raised Catholic, so I assume everything is my fault.
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Good advice from everyone. One other thing that helps sometimes is to talk about it first. I have had partners tell me before the trip that they want to split the cost if anything is damaged, missing, or broken regardless of fault or situation. Makes replacement of things real easy and no awkward moments if something does happen.
What about damage to ropes like sheath damage, core shots, etc? I never expected my partners to compensate me when my ropes have been damaged and it never occurred to me to offer to compensate my partners for damage to their ropes.
I will often say we bring my rack and your rope (or vice versa) and if I have to leave my gear behind as a rap anchor or whatever I view that similarly to damage my partner's rope may incur.
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If it's a big ticket item, I nudge my partner off the ledge along with it.
That reminds me, I still have a carabiner that belongs to you.
What kind? It isn't my other revolver by any chance, is it?
That would be coo.
No, it is an older bent gate carabiner. The gate is purple.
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If it's a big ticket item, I nudge my partner off the ledge along with it.
That reminds me, I still have a carabiner that belongs to you.
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Personally, I always offer to pay if my partner's rope/gear gets stuck/lost, but never ask to be repaid if it is my gear/rope that gets lost/stuck. For me, a good partnership is far more valuable than a few dollars for some lost/stuck gear.
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Situation A. Loss was due to neglect. Your partner should offer to pay.
Situation B. Price of doing business, no one is at fault. Split the cost.
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Wow, this trip report had a bit of everything: photos of firey larches, posing pikas, sweeping ridge lines, serene lakes, and pretty girls. It all reminds me why September and early October are my favorite months to climb.
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At the end of the week this stuff is heading to Second Ascent. Last chance to buy it at a cheaper price and to help a brother out.
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DPS: Black Diamond makes a larger adze and a full size hammer one can use on the Cobra or Viper but you have to purchase them separately and it makes the tool overall heavier. I have a few partners that will use the larger hammer for alpine routes that require lots of nailing.
Hi John,
I am aware that one can buy a larger hammer and adze, however, that adds $$$$$ to what is already the most expensive tool in its category, does not solve what I consider to be a poor adze design, nor does it address the pick issue.
If a larger hammer and shovel shaped adze were an option at the time of the sale (i.e. not an additional expense) I would put up with the inferior picks for what is the most naturally swinging tools I've found.
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Cobras are the best swinging tools I've found, but the tiny hammer, ridiculous adze, and picks that are inferior to either Petzl or Grivel's forged designs was enough for me to choose Quarks. I'll try the synthetic cycling tape and report back. I think the added weight might actually be a benefit.
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They make synthetic, gel type tape that shouldn't absorb water. I bet a CX type who rides their bike around in muddy circles might be able to weigh in on this.In my experience cork absorbs water and freezes into a slick noninsulator pretty quickly, haven't tried the synthetic stuff though. -
Julia is a sweet gal.
Hmm, that isn't the name I remember...
Wasn't that her name? Dark hair? I definitely remember chatting with her at Smith Rock, maybe I just got the name wrong.
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Curious why you are selling the bag. Been thinking of getting one next spring. Does the theory not work out well in practice?
Can't snuggle with your pretty new bride in this bag.
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What about cork or synthetic cork road bike handlebar tape? Cork, and presumably the foam they use in synthetic tape, is a fairly decent insulator, it is easy to apply, remove, and reapply. One trick we used was to spray the bars with hair spray to make the tape stick better, yet easy to remove. Just a thought. http://www.coloradocyclist.com/douglas-gel-cork-bar-tape?gclid=CI7lwde6tsECFVFgMgodj1wAeg
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Julia is a sweet gal.
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Edit: After reading this trip report you mentioned: "In 2001, this thread indicates a party bailed after what seems like the first pitch of the Dike Chimney, finding it very unappealing."
That was me and Aidan Haley. Apparently I have not done the traverse via the dike chimney.
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Just a few comments. Having done this traverse a few times, including by the dike chimney, I find it one the more enjoyable enchainments and have taken several Cascades neophytes on it who all enjoyed it.
I also married a nice Jewish girl. We got married in Scottsdale, AZ where her folks winter. While my bride and soon to be mother in law were making last minute preparations, I grabbed my shoes and harness and headed to Pinnacle Peak state park which boasts clean Joshua Tree like desert granite monzonite cliffs.
I walked up to a group of four folks, introduced myself and asked I may join them. They agreed and we spent an enjoyable afternoon climbing the sharpest rock ever and getting to know each other. I mentioned I was visiting from Seattle and was in town to get married on Thursday evening. The husband and wife looked at each other and heartily congratulated me with a 'mazel tov'.
We chatted about Seattle, my bride to be (Rachel), and other things. As evening approached and the park was nearing its closing time, we began our short hike to the car. The couple ran into their friend, Maury, and introduced me. "This is our new friend Daniel. He is getting married this Thursday to his finance, Rachel".
"Mazel tov" responds my new friend Maury, who proceeds to engage me in conversation as we hike. "Let me ask you Daniel, which movie did you like better, Shindler's List or the Pianist?"
Apparently I had accidently discovered the secret handshake of the chosen people.
I hope you both enjoy all the great things the Cascades has to offer. And to those of you who are not fortunate enough to have a Jewish mother in law, you don't know what your missing.
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Steph Abegg's Website goes into much finer detail and analysis: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/projects/rainierstatistics
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Interesting how you can get a sense of a person through their stories, shared on the net. We come to know each other a little through our common avocation. We revel in the successes, and feel the losses too. Sometimes quite deeply, given that we've never actually met someone.
Accepting the loss of a strong, vibrant person such as Liz is particularly difficult even for those of us who did not have the pleasure of meeting her in real life.
Man tho, she did live well!
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Nailed it. What a sad loss.
+ 1. While our paths had crossed in the mountains (I wondered who the pretty girl mountain guide was), it was through her wonderful trip reports that I got a sense of who she was; in her words, 'splitter!'.
How do people who ski denali not lose toes?
in the *freshiezone*
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When I was up there a number of folks wore ski boots to 14k and then switched to climbing boots for the summit. I did not see anyone above 17k with ski boots though.