DPS

I am thinking about going this winter when weather and avalanche conditions improve.

I have skied into Spray Park a couple of times in late spring and recall some nice rolling hills and glades, but that was a few years ago and I don't recall how bad the terrain would be for avalanches. Can anyone comment? Would it be a death trap in high avalanche conditions or relatively safe.

What was the outcome of Colin and Jed's attempt at a new route in Pakistan earlier this year?

I did Liberty Ridge July 15-16 1996. Conditions were excellent for climbing, but rock fall on the ridge below Thumb Rock was copious and constant. We also had some shenanigans crossing the Carbon as it was melted out quite a bit. I did it as a two person team which is fine if you know how to extract your partner from a crevasse all by your lonesome.

I recommend making a reservation.

Hi Rob, I understand where you are coming from. Let me know when you want to climb. Dan

MSR is located in the 'SODO' neighborhood in Seattle - 4000 1st Ave. If you make the trip be sure to check out the Outdoor Research company store and Art Wolfe's gallery a few blocks away.

On my lunch break I took my old MSR XGK stove with a broken pump to MSR to be cleaned and have the pump fixed. Dude behind the counter hands me a new stove and pump and charges me the rate for just cleaning the stove ($20.00). Can't beat that deal with a stick.

Can anyone report on the ice conditions around Banks Lake or Vantage? Thanks, Dan

If you want to dress like a hard man, you need this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=10&Number=752962&Searchpage=1&Main=56471&Words=&topic=1&Search=true&PHPSESSID=2080eb839f742bdb9b0e1ae77d092a65#Post752962

Those anchors are usually reachable, the snow pack was mighty thin. We wondered how you guys made it down. We slung a block sticking out of the snow.

Hello Nate, That is very thoughtful of you to worry. I was one of the 4 who started up the NE Buttress with you. We rapped the gulley just as we lost light and made the uneventful hike out by headlamp. Dan

Three parties climbed the NE Buttress on Sunday. Lots of ice, conditions generally very good. One party climbed the first pitch on the left via a pure ice pitch. The "S" shaped gulley was mostly snow with a couple of water ice steps. The second pitch is easy snow climbing. The third pitch that climbs the top of the east face to the short water fall was mostly very good ice with excellent screw placements. The last pitch was easy snow with a couple of water ice blobs that took good screw placements. The down climb of the gulley to the col was a bit bony, we did one rappel. The traditional winter anchors at the col were out of reach so we slung a block poking out of the snow and made a 60 meter rappel which was just long enough.

I found a trip report my partner wrote here: http://www.alpenthyme.org/alp/mixup/mixup.htm

Hi Cassie, If there is anything Rachel and I can do please let me know. Dan

Here is our approximate route. Red is ascending, green is descending. The glacier was very broken up, thus the circuitous route.

Looking to get out on Sunday. Interested in easy climbs (The Tooth, Chair Peak), ski mountaineering, or whatever depending on weather and snow conditions. Open to suggestions. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com

I did Mixup this time of year a couple of years ago via a couloir on the NW aspect that lead to the west ridge. We descended via Gun Sight Notch and traveresed back west under the North Face. I don't recall seeing a couloir on the NE aspect.

Grivel Rambo.

Jason Martin could give you some good information.

Some things I have learned from 12 winter ascents of Chair Peak: -Don't go if avalanche conditions are bad. -The NE Buttress is often in decent shape when the North Face isn't -Bring a little of everything in terms of a rack (a few screws, pins, nuts, cams and a couple of pickets) -There are two possible gulleys that lead to the col with the fixed rappel anchor. The gulley just below the summit pyramid is a little harder to down climb than the gulley that is farther NE. -Get an early start to beat the crowds and avoid descending in the dark.

Yes, you are mistaken. During the winter the prevailing winds are from the south, which actually scour the south side (the most accessible side in winter) leaving very thin, fragile snow bridges. Also, sastrugi (sp?) snow forms effectively hiding evidence of crevasses making it very difficult to tell where the crevasses are.

I just fell on my ass this morning running on Der Tigerhorn. Maybe I need to pick up a pair.

I agree with Ivan, of the half dozen routes on Hood that I have done, Reid Headwall stands out in my mind as being one of the best.

Hello Skander, I am in Seattle and will be heading north from there so I don't think it will work out. Thanks for responding though. Dan