DPS
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The crux was getting up the gumption to clean out the truck load of crap that was in my garage before I could start on the project.
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Climb: Home Depot-New gear storage Date of Climb: 1/1/2006 Trip Report: My current method of storing my climbing gear left something to be desired. Any time I packed for a trip I would have to paw through a bunch of plastic bins looking for what I needed. Inspired by a photo on this bbs, I decided to create a gear wall to store my climbing crap. With my father in law in tow I headed to my local Home Depot where I picked up the necessary gear: 4 x 8 sheet of peg board, 3- 1" x 2" x 8' pieces of lumber, 1" and 2 1/2" screws, 15 long hangers and a bag of assorted hooks. Total cost $35 I created a frame by srewing the 1 x 2s to the back of the peg board around the perimeter with 1" screws. Then I screwed the peg board to the wall about 3 feet off the ground with 2 1'2" screws. It was helpful having a second pair of hands to hold the peg board in position while I attached it to the wall. The fun part was artfully arranging the various hooks and hangers and hanging up the gear. The result is a neat looking display of my most used climbing gear. Photos to follow. Gear Notes: Screws, drill motor with screw driver attachment, compound miter saw, level. Approach Notes: Full sized truck recommended to fit 4 x 8 sheet of peg board.
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PM sent
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Anytime between July 5th and late August will give you the best chances of having good weather while still having decent snow bridges across the crevasses. If I were to do this route I would plan on mid July.
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[quoteI'll have to look into the SW Ridge, Dan, though I was trying to stick to the Northern aspect, as what I've derived is that much less time is spent approaching, and more time climbing, from that side. You fly right to the base of the route onto the Thunder Glacier. It is actually a shorter approach than you would do for the Norther Routes.
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I would listen to Joe. He knows his stuff when it comes to Alaska.
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What about the SW Ridge? It offers good, varied climbing. The down side is it does not top out on the true summit. And the initial couloir is prone to avalanching after a storm.
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Good points Cobra_Commander.
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Griz, I believe you are referring to what folks in the Web biz call 'meta tags'. These go in the <head> section at the top of your Web page. You will have to look at the source code to view this, or Dreamweaver might have a wysiwyg editor for meta tags. Below is a sample header from a Web page I built for work to give you an idea. You will notice there are a couple of types of meta tags, one of key words that are basically words one might type into google, the other is a descriptive sentence or two that describes the content of the Web page. <head> <title>Streams Water Quality Data, King County, Washington</title> <meta content="streams, bacteria, pollution, fecal coliform,temperature,wria 8, wria 9, turbidity,total suspended solids,nutrients,total phosphorus,total nitrogen,pH, dissolved oxygen,king county" name="keywords"> <meta content="Streams monitoring data in King County streams, Washington State" name="description"> <meta content="daniel.smith@metrokc.gov" name="author"> <meta content="http://dnr.metrokc.gov/wlr/waterres/streamdata/index.htm" name="URL"> </head> For a page of photos of the Wind Rivers, I might put something like the following: <meta content="photos,images,wind rivers,range,mountains,wyoming,warbonnet,wolfs head,pingora,rock climbing,mountain climbing,climbing" name="keywords"> <meta content="Photos of climbing in the Wind River Range of Wyoming" name="description"> I also recall hearing that Google looks at page headers and titles in its search algorythm, so having a descriptive page header is helpful. i.e. 'Griz's Home Page' would not rank as high as 'Photos and stories of mountain climbing in the Wind River Range in Wyoming.' Hope that helps.
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Why is it I remember the routes and mountains I have failed on more than the one's I have succeded in climbing? Anyone else like this?
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Hi Oleg, We did indeed try to climb it in winter, late December of 2000. I have been into cascade pass 7 times in the winter and have yet to see the route in as good of condition as it was when we tried it in 2000. The route has either been very dry, or buried in snow. We failed for several reasons: The stove was not working, I woke up sick with a sore throat, and we realized we would need at least 3 days to climb and descend and had only 2. It was a bitter failure because the climbing was so very, very good and I believe would have been the second winter ascent of the route. I raved about the quality of the climbing to Colin who later went on to climb it in very challenging conditions in the winter. We actually descend over the water falls to the left of the magenta line. It would have been an even better start, but we did not see it in the early morning light.
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Five years ago I climbed a line that roughly followed the magenta line to the snow patch above the green circle. It was really excellent climbing.
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I am embarassed to admit how long I have been climbing given how shitty I am at it.
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Old single stem style. The type they stopped making last year.
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I am looking for the gold, #2. Thanks for checking.
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Does anyone know of a retailer that still sells the old style Camalots? Thanks.
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Word on the street is they moved to Pike Place Market.
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There are some areas that are popular for winter mountaineering due to reasonable access and good climbing routes. Look into Colchuck Lake (Dragontail and Colchuck Peaks), Snoqualmie Pass (Chair Peak and The Tooth), and the Tatoosh Range (Pinnacle Peak, Lane Peak, and The Castle) for starters.
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It did not take all that long, certainly not more than half the day. Rappel anchors were easy to come by, either using vegetation or ice anchors. The ice was unually fat though, in less than ideal conditions it may be harder to find anchors.
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I have descended both the C-J coulior in winter and the NE Buttress from the snow arete (our high point) in winter. Descending the Buttress was not bad, we did it with a single rope using bollards, v-threads, threaded icicles, and vegetation for anchors and down climbing. Near the top of the CJ Couloir there is a bowl sort of thing that likes to collect spindrift from the flanks of Cascade and J'Berg. I have been there when the entire couloir is neve and ice but that bowl is waist deep snow. Scary. When Colin climbed the NE Buttress in winter, he did it in really shitty conditions and descended by traversing West over multiple sub peaks until able to drop down to their car.
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crazyjz, I found no local dealers of satellite phones when I looked last year. I ended up renting through Satellite Oufitters (look for them on the Web). I was able to speak with a sales rep on the phone who was pretty knowledgeable. I would recommend giving them a call.
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I have a SARC built with pack cloth, it is plenty tough, I think the Cordura is overkill. I went without the zippered bag access. I also had him put the smaller Zero SARC hipbelt on to save weight and improve mobility. I am impressed with how well the set up carries. I have carried as much as 60 lbs on training hikes with no discomfort. I agree with mattp, longer side straps would be nice for strapping down thick winter sleeping pads and the like.
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Hi John, I definitely ehjoyed the trip. I would recommend the route. Dan
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Maybe the Mountain Hardware EV-24 (or whatever that thing is) would fit the bill? Light weight but roomer than an I tent. We camped next to a couple of guys who had one and used it with three people on technical routes.
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I think siping definitely improves traction in snow and ice. Used tires can be siped, Les Schwab will do it for $15.00 per tire, I think.
