DPS

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Given the amount of snow and your timeframe, I suggest snow/ice climbs. These are all conditions dependent, all are avalanche prone. The Washington Pass routes are typically best done as soon after the pass opens as possible. Some ideas: Washington Pass: - Early Winters Couloir (Couloir between east faces of North and South Early Winters Couloir - West Face of Silver Star Peak - East Face Couloir of Cuthroat - Southwest Gulley of South Early Winters Couloir - North Face of Greybeard Stuart Range: - North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck - NE Couloir on Argonaut - Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt Stuart - West Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart - NE Couloir to East Ridge of Sherpa Cascade Pass: - NW Ice Couloir on Eldorado - Cascade-Johannesberg Couloir to East Face of Johannesberg Peak - West Face of Sahale Peak - North Face of Mt Buckner

This brings back memories. Or rather, nightmares.

What's that now? I owe who a pair of skis?

Chair Peak

Hi Loren, Alex is still in Bellevue. He hasn't been climbing much lately, been sailing more. He was heading to the Rockies with one of his boys last month though. Wanted me to join, but I couldn't. Dan

White River Road typically does not open until Memorial Day WE, so that will add ~ 11 miles to the approach round trip. Biking that section speeds things up a bit. I would personally wait for the first good weather window after the road opens.

Great photos! Of the half-dozen or so routes that I've done on Hood, RGH ranks as my favorite!

Wow, that was very cool.

You presented some seriously bad information in your blog post, just straight up wrong. You should not be giving any kind of advice on climbing. Guides were snapping at you because you were doing something stupid. I also take umbrage of your description of guides. The guides I know want to give their guests the best possible experience, not just take their guests' money. "Another significant reason I would not do it guided is that their priority is not to get you to the summit safely. ... if a guide happens to be doing multiple trips in a season, their priority may be to get their next group started and your trip over with. Meaning they need to get your team off of the mountain so that they can start their next group of clients and take their money."

Using a foil windscreen and a water bath work pretty well for extending the season of my Pocket Rocket.

Hi Dane! I am in Boise now and I have been trying to find out the same thing. There is very little information avaliable on alpine climbing in Idaho, especially in the winter. I have been chatting with a guy who has climbed it fall/winter, and aparently avalaches are a big concern, but if conditions are safe then the face should go. If you are looking for a partner hit me up. I am gainfully unemployed and have a flexible schedule. Dan

I was expecting to see some junk in the van, not HIS junk.

Love the bungee system on that pack.

Both are late season classics!