philfort

Was anyone in the Cascade Pass area last Saturday morning, and did you see the huge avalanche that came off Johannesburg? From our vantage in Eldorado creek, it looked like it was an avalanche of water! We'd heard several booms earlier in the morning but there wasn't much to see - this one was louder however, and when we looked over, there was a raging torrent flowing over the 800ft cliff at the base of the north face. Hard to tell if it was snow or water, but it was producing spray, wasn't chunky, and didn't seem to be accumulating in the run-out zone (although the run-out zone was partially hidden from our view). It continued with a huge (like niagara falls size) noisy flow for about 20 seconds, then at a lesser rate for another couple of minutes before stopping completely. Biggest, noisiest thing I've ever seen coming off of Big J. Could it have been water released from the glacier? Anyone get a better view of it?

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: I entered Canada on sept 13. A drivers license was all I needed but I guess our freedoms are already changing. Bummer. Technically, you always need more than a drivers license (license doesn't mean anything - I have a WA license but I'm canadian), so I don't think any "freedoms" have changed. Although it's very rare that I've ever been asked for any ID.

Yes, they are easy to duplicate. However, keep in mind, that if you use a duplicated one, 1) the forest service won't be getting any money, and 2) they'll think you support the program. I think most people here want the opposite of that?

I think it was a whiteout when we were on it. But I'm sure the views are great. The scrambling near the top was fun. Crater was a backup plan when Jack mtn didn't work out. We also climbed the east peak, which had one 4th class step. Yeah, there are remains up there. Not much left, but I do remember a large metal pole. trip report: http://praxis.etla.net/~philfort/Jack/Jack.html

Crater mtn route is well-traveled class 2 (steep though), solid from what I remember. Very well-marked with paint on the rocks :-( No glacier travel. It's basically a 6000ft hike, with some scrambling on top. [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 09-28-2001).]

Hey Jens, check your private messages ....

I haven't been up there, but I bet the NE face is in fine shape right now... In my very humble opinion, it's a nice variation to the standard route, but that's about all it is. Not very long - about like Observation Rock, but not as steep. Not really "two-tool" territory, unless you play around in the bergscrhund/crevasses.

The center line on the Coleman Headwall still looked "do-able" as of last Saturday (not saying I would do it :-). This from looking at it from the coleman glacier icefall "cragging" area. Anyway, it has a small bergschrund at the top, a big one at the bottom, but in between looked like smooth ice, other than one cliffy thing halfway up. Who knows what its like gettin' to the base though. Fresh snow near the top too. The "serac'ing" in the lower icefall is decent now. Best quality ice I've ever seen there, actually.

I'm thinking of going against my tele roots and purchasing some randonee gear. Planning to use it mostly for approaches to winter climbs, so I'd like it to be as light as possible. So obviously that means considering the dynafit tourlite binding system. But I'm a little worried about climbing in those boots potentially damaging the attachment system - those little holes (I'm not even sure exactly how they attached, I haven't seen one up close). Does anyone here climb in those tourlite-compatible boots, and have any info here? Any suggestions for tourlite boots that are decent for ice climbing? Phil

No, but obviously you have.... I was on Adams, Mazama glacier last Saturday during a thunderstorm, and we saw a lightning strike ignite a section of forest near Bird Lake. It appeared to go out, but then there was another area that started smoking just to the north. Haven't heard anything since then though.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: vertical rise is about 600m. thats 12 pitches with 50m ropes or 10 pitches with 60m ropes. even with additional length due to not being vertical that does not add up to 23 pitches especially because you wouldn't pitch out all of the 600m. understand why I question the 23 pitch statistic? Assuming an average angle of 45 degrees, that's 17 pitches with a 50m. Probably more like 18, since you don't have the whole 50m at your disposal. Then, figure in some long traverses, maybe up to 21. Then a couple steep technical spots where you don't use the full rope length, and you're at 23. Not toooo hard to stretch, is it?? :-)

But really - take any beta with a grain of salt. You thought it was in, he thought it wasn't. That doesn't make his beta false, anymore than it makes your beta false, in his mind. Also, perhaps you're not clear on this, but these kinds of glaciated/snow faces generally tend to deteriorate as the year goes on. So if you were there 2 weeks ago, and he was there last weekend, there could be a difference. I don't know what would make you think it would be better now. Or perhaps you are hinting/spraying about how you must be a better climber, since you were able to climb it and he wasn't. [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 09-14-2001).]

Wonder if that fire was the same one we could see from Kangaroo on Sunday. In the morning, the view over to Mt Goode was clear. It got hazier and hazier due to building smoke (maybe from winds?), and by afternoon, Mt Goode was almost completely invisible. You could also smell it. The smoke, not Mt Goode.

quote: Originally posted by Beck: For the family's sake, yes I hope we find them... I'm not too optimistic, Glacial creep isn't a very gentle process. Philfort, are you going to be there this weekend? yes, I will be there...

Yes, but it happened 20 years ago. There's hope the bodies may surface in this low snow year.

quote: Yeah, Famous Boulder Problems like the Stanley Headwall Ok, I admit, there is some cool stuff... it's just depressing to get a new issue, and at least half of it is devoted to bouldering, or who won sport climbing competitions, etc.... That's just the way it's seemed with the past couple of issues. But I guess that way they can sell more copies and support themselves or something. [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 09-13-2001).]

Gripped appears to be mainly a bouldering magazine, judging from the handful of issues I have :-(

Isn't Garibaldi surrounded by some even higher peaks anyway? So it wouldn't be that prominent... Hey Dru... What's this mountain: This is taken from near Tomyhoi (thats Tomyhoi on the right) looking north over the Fraser Valley and... Chilliwack? I was wondering what that prominent white peak on the left is... (maybe its what gearbot/goatboy saw)

Waited for one and a half hours at the rap station on Kangaroo Temple for a group of Mountaineers to do their rappel. We asked politely, but they wouldn't let us use their rope to zip by while they taught the students how to rappel. Then they got their ropes stuck while pulling them. One of them climbed up to retrieve the stuck rope, and we let him use our rappel line to get back down.

I attempted it from Thunder creek, up to the lake that terrible ted mentions. I don't recommend doing it that way. I think it was 9 hours and sixteen miles from car to lake (you could probably beat our time by several hours with a lighter pack, but still). Never gone over Easy Pass, but it sounds shorter.

quote: Originally posted by bobinc: I've had both diurnal and nocturnal encounters with goats. Hey, this is a family website!!

There's a little bit of snow on the way up to Daniel, on a remnant glacier (Hyas creek glacier or something) - don't think it has many crevasses. You could hike up to Echo Rock or Observation Rock on the north side of Rainier. Again just snowfields, with one or two easily avoidable crevasses on O Rock maybe. You might try some of the higher peaks around Washington/Rainy Pass - like Black Peak - that has a few snowfields. Your options are pretty slim right now unless you're willing to git on a glacier...

My beta (which you may have already gleaned off my website): A pitch or two of solid 4th and low 5th, then some nice sandy ledges, then one and a half pitches of 5.8, although the 5.8 is in chunks, not sustained. I followed it and found sections of it a bit desparate, but not too bad (but I'm not a very good rock climber - and it was friggin cold). Then we traversed right and slightly down on ledges, then we started up what might have been the final pitch, or maybe there's a little more. We weren't really sure where to go, and then a snow squall moved in, coating the slabs, so we bailed. Overall, the route doesn't seem very committing (I think it's a grade II or II+ or something?) - but then again, we didn't do the final pitch (or two?). There's definitely not 6 pitches of 5.8. Probably more like 6 pitches in all, 3 of which are 5.8. It seemed less intimidating than it sounds from the Beckey guide. If you keep on the trail, the approach to the col isn't too long (3 hours?). I found the sand and scree slope heading up to the col to be pretty sketchy though. However, I was also up there 4 or 5 years ago when I was all new at this and trying to climb silver star, when the scree was covered by a couple inches of snow, and I found it very mellow. Kind of weird. But don't believe anything I say.

ehmmic, a question about the East Ridge direct... the little tower you climb that you need to rap of off (the one just before the 5.8 crux) - the route we took up that involved 20 or 30 feet of slightly overhanging climbing on small face holds. Very pumpy - definitely seemed more than 5.8. Is there an easier way? just curious...

I've got the Evernew cookset (1.8L and 2.3L pots I think). Good handle system - no pot gripper to lose. Expensive, but worthwhile - it's all I use now. The pots are thin though, so they're mainly good for boiling water. I don't think the aluminum Blacklite's are near as light the Ti pots.