philfort

Last time I was on the Tooth, there were 2 brand new cams stuck. We were going to retrieve them while rappeling, unfortunately there were lightning strikes happening so we had better things to do... Also saw a new rope hanging from a cliff about halfway up the approach to the east ridge of Forbidden, at the top of the snow finger, where there are a few moves on pebbly slabs or something. Not sure why anyone would have to leave a rope there?

From a Lake Chelan - Sawtooth Wilderness map I have: "The Wilderness Act of 1964 let some established human uses of the land continue in Wilderness. Livestock grazing, hunting and some mining are still allowed. One band of sheep graze in a portion of the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth every odd-numbered year (Trask, take note, this year is odd-numbered), and cattle use ranges in Wolf Creek yearly."

In parts of Africa, each town has a guy whose job that is. He must go around and "purify" the widows. He is usually the town drunkard. Saw it on PBS or something... Here's a link

I was too tired to go bag Dome after the traverse from White Rocks.... looks like I missed out on a great photo op - very nice pic! Do I know you crackbolter? Are you Erik's friend?

I've seen cows wandering around in the woods on the S side of Mt Adams. May have been in the indian reservation though...

I'm guessing she means free- soloed To the left of the gully looks a lot cleaner - but when I was there last month it looked really difficult to attain - big moat and all, or difficult climbing out of the gully.

The Cheat

Here's the snout in late September 2001: Almost looks like it advanced a tiny bit between 1996 and 2001... the little snow-covered bench coming in from the left in the 1996 photo ends right at the snout, but the snout is a little below that in 2001.

A cool, but depressing webpage: http://www.nichols.edu/departments/glacier/befaft.htm

One ridge east of Slesse, along with Mt Rexford.

Thompson is definitely more chossy than da Toof. Not horrible, but there are some loose holds. It's walk-offable on the east side, with a couple of short 4th class steps. Toof is solid.

Well, that's what the link I posted above is claiming (due to cold temps though). So yeah, the relationship between pressure change and altitude change would be different - but that ratio is fixed (at least on my altimeter), so the altimeter is "permanently calibrated" to some norm. But the changing weather is probably going to mess with your altimeter more than the "latitude error"?

oh come on Here's an article about why the effective altitude is greater at the south pole. http://www.polar.org/antsun/Sun020203/altitude.html

scott, There's no bergschrund problems with the east ridge. The approach is straightforward up a 35 degree snow gully, then scree. I think it would go in a day.

He's slow... as of last wknd, he hadn't moved from his belay ledge!

damn, I'm good!

guess without having seen the pic: American Border Pk

yeah, which route? If the east face route, how is the moat?

Yeah, I took a gamble buying them w/o trying them on, and I got them a little too small. I think mine are size 26.5. As for the MLT's, it really confounds me that they don't sell them with thermoflex liners. Kind of negates the whole weight savings thing unless you shell out extra cash.

I don't think any stores here carry the TLT4. I had to order mine direct from life-link.

I tried on a pair at Marmot at the beginning of the ski season. I think they only had a couple in stock, and not really my size. I already have TLT4s, and I thought the MLTs might be interesting if they were softer around the ankle (e.g. for french technique), but they weren't really, so it didn't seem worth it to pursue getting them.

Looks like its an insignificant bump next to Phantom Peak... i.e. so gentle that it doesn't get its own entry. I think its the ridgecrest with a snowfield in between Phantom and Swiss on page 117.

Conditions are fine now, go for it! And bring bugspray...

Wow, that's ridiculous! I went permitless twice last fall - we actually tried to get permits, but both times the station was closed and there weren't any permit forms left outside! What do they expect you to do? Actually though, all the rangers I've run into in NCNP have been pretty nice, and not copping a 'tude. (Except one who tried to trick us into saying we had spent the night in BB).

Actually I think it was 5 raps to the sloping terrace, one of them was hanging. "Mostly" straight down. No stuff to get the rope caught on though.