Nolan E Arson

Negative. The list of open state day use park areas is pretty short. “High-density parks on the north coast, the Columbia Gorge, boat accesses to the John Day and Deschutes Rivers, and places like Smith Rock in Central Oregon will likely be among the last to return to limited service, and no dates for state parks in those regions have been announced.” https://oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=v.dsp_featureArticle&articleId=279

Mr K has another live youtube show today. Coming up soon. Wasn’t sure if the man himself was going to post it here, but the time is nigh, so... The Denali show last week was great! Lots of laughs, lots of good info.

I had to double take as well! Pretty awesome. Welcome, Andy. Your articles are a great resource, and very entertaining to boot. Your books are invaluable. Can’t wait for Down. I’m also really enjoying your podcast—don’t stop rambling!

Thanks Andy. Looking forward to it.

Congratulations! Just reading this was a fantastic experience. Sincere thanks for sharing—and for all the time and effort you obviously invested in this write-up. Your pictures, and your detailed personal experiences of the climbing really bring the challenges of the route, its history, and the whole of the place itself to life.

Nice! Looks sweet! Great to see something new, something to keep the fires stoked. Although I gotta say, in this weird and claustrophobic time it’s a hell of a goddamn tease. Thanks for pulling one out of the stash.

Fuck yes! Your trips are setting a new standard on Hood. Serious congratulations.

Good job. I’m with you—everything on Hood is approachable from Timberline.

Nice work! Love your descriptive write-up. Extra props for the Nietzsche. Haven’t got Yocum under my belt yet, but I’m intimately acquainted with that feeling that lingers after spending a long time in a sea of no fall terrain, connecting insecure move after insecure move... at some point you start to feel the abyss eyeing you back. Thanks!

Strong work Matt and Noah! A serious accomplishment. Intimidating pictures! Bold and heady climbing, and creative problem solving. Thanks for sharing! A shot of you guys as ants on the first gendarme. Goddamn that’s a lot of complicated terrain!

Wow, fantastic work! Hope you have a speedy and uncomplicated recovery. Thanks for the compelling write-up and thoughtful analysis in your blog post too. There are a few take-away lessons for me, and I appreciate the opportunity to reflect.

Incredible TR. Like settling deep into a freshly arrived Alpinist issue. But better! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the write up, Matt! Dead accurate approach beta. It was awesome to run into you, Bob. Thanks for the pics! It was great fun to eyeball a line and just give it a go. It’s definitely weird that this gets zero traffic. Guidebook blinder syndrome? When we finally get ice on the kitchen steeps, I’m definitely in for another lap. Couple more pics: Matt about to leave the ice climbing and re-enter the swim zone And Bob at the top of the vertical rime step

Nice work! And good pics. That wind was brisk until about halfway up! Made for tricky layer management—and fewer pics than I would have liked. Fine day out though—solid conditions made for really enjoyable climbing. It was nice running into you up there. A couple pics of you heading into the runnel, and one more of you in the upper chamber:

Tons of good info—for both newbs and for the experienced. This was where I went for info my first time on Rainier. Thanks!

Agree that 40-60 lbs is a lot... beer weight?

This

Climbed it last Sunday (11.10), and there were two teams behind us. Another team was rumored to have bailed on the approach; and heading down across the toe of the E Ridge we spoke with a party of two planning to climb the couloir the next day. I was very glad we were first to the route. Indeed there is a lot of shelling from just one’s partner—let alone from multiple teams above—and debris accelerates pretty fast in there! I imagine that the fun cruxes, and easy but quite run-out snice sections would have been less fun to lead while being pelted constantly by the little stuff, and while the bigger stuff hums eerily past your head. We tried to be gentle, but obviously there’s not much to be done. Beautiful climb in an absolutely perfect alpine setting. I feel lucky to have had the chance to climb it, and I’ll definitely join the chorus and say that it’s one of my favorite climbs ever.

Bump Still got ‘em. Brand new. Drop to $500

This is fantastic—nice work!

Shit. More bad news

Good stuff—thanks!

We took a cab from DF to Apizaco for a Malinche hike. It was a bit pricey, but we were in a hurry, and didn’t have the lay of the land—transport-wise. Bus from there to Tlachichuca (and back to DF) was cheap and quite nice. It was nice to actually be in the culture for a minute, instead of always being the rushing tourist. I read something about the mandatory insurance for car rentals being expensive, so I didn’t dig deeper. That said, there were a few parties (even twosomes) of climbers who did rent, so it can’t be that bad. I really don’t know...

Seems pretty common to drive to Tlachichuca in a rental, then arrange higher transport through Servimont. They shuttle up and down all the time. It’s also a convenient place to get fuel.