Nolan E Arson

We stayed at Servimont one night on each end of the Orizaba trip, arranged for transport to Piedra Grande, and bought water and fuel. It’s a simple climb, just a fun slog at elevation. I would save your money and not hire a guide. It was just my girlfriend and I travelling and we had no issues. I speak semi-decent Spanish, but lots of folks pull it off with zero Español. We only had seven days, and only climbed Orizaba—with a stopover to hike La Malinche for acclimatization. So no info on the other volcanoes. It was a great trip, and totally doable with a short window.

Agree. Mexican bus travel is pretty easy and safe (and nice!). Cheap too. If you go for Orizaba, check out Dr. Reyes’ services in Tlachichuca. Totally customizable and affordable. http://www.servimont.com.mx/en/

Here’s a pic from a sun break on the Palmer webcam today. After the long storm it looks well covered up there. Probably no open bergshrund concerns. With the sun breaks and some more freeze thaw, hopefully the snow will be well consolidated. Sunday’s weather forecast and the lower freezing level look lovely for climbing. A second tool is recommended for beginners, or for the surprise icy section. Have fun!

Are PRG memberships transferable?

The gate was closed when I went up to check things out today. Weird, as the upper road is clearly drivable. Bit of a bummer, as we had a mandatory later start time and the extra hiking killed our chance to put tool to ice. Ah well, still a lovely hike, and it was nice to be up there in the white stuff again.

Oregon High by Jeff Thomas might be your best bet for a route description.

Found an ice screw Thursday September 27th at the base of the ice climb. Give me a description and I’ll get it back to you.

A lonely draw, found Sunday September 16, high on Chalk Wave. Text me with a description and I’ll get it back to you. 503-867-6139

I hiked the North Ridge of SS on August 25th from Green Lakes TH in prep for my own shot at the marathon. Hoping to get it done soon. The route is pretty straightforward and follows the ridge crest directly. After NS, you’ll find it mellow. There is a convenient hand line when the ridge gets steep. The loop of sun-bleached webbing that anchors the rope is definitely in need of replacement/reinforcement. I’d try to avoid yanking on it too much. The rope is quite handy for routefinding if nothing else. Good mountain karma awaits the scree-wallower who gives the anchor some love. Have fun and let us know how it goes!

Lose an axe recently? Maybe two? Give me a description and we’ll get you reunited. Text 503-867-6139

Hi Kevin, Hood conditions are very different than they were in March. I was climbing the same day as the accident in March and I’ve been up on the Wy’East ridge as recent as yesterday (April 20), but I’ve not traveled up or down the standard south routes for a few weeks There is a lot of new snow from the recent storms. The big rime formations below the Devil’s kitchen are long gone, and we were post-holing for much of the day yesterday. There has been some freeze-thaw over the past few days, with strong solar effects as well; the forecast shows more of both to come and a nice long weather window. This is all adding up to create great climbing conditions. With the new snow and warming conditions, definitely start early and get down before things get slushy. Wet avalanches and delaminated rime bombs can happen in these conditions. You should climb! I definitely recomend a second tool, especially for beginners, and don’t be afraid to face in and dagger. From the Steel Cliffs/Wy’East Ridge I couldn’t see any openings in the bergschrund, but no guarantees.