Alisse

@NikiY Dang...well...at least you got out there! I'd better go see that "glacier" before it disappears entirely. The Flett "glacier" looked about the same when I was up there last month. I'm sure October turns will be better! ..late October turns..

Where are you headed? Please report back on pow conditions! :-) Too fleeting for..your preference? The way things are headed, I think the high alpine could turn into dust bowls 😬 Let me know, @JasonG the moment when you're excited for skiing!

Congrats!!!

Love the photos. Love that traversing section of the approach (and the basin).

Duh!

I am sorry for your losses.

I use lots of sunscreen and my stylin' Cocoon sunglasses (side coverage + fit over my glasses) religiously. I haven't experienced any eye dryness or fatigue while or after extended glacier travel. I just want to ensure I don't do any long-term damage to my eyes even without symptoms now. I'm going to talk to my eye doctor!

Great links, thanks!!! The first one is specifically what I was looking for. 👍

I know I could spend awhile Googling this, but it's more fun to make a thread and I'm sure you all have some resources that I wouldn't find otherwise! I'm wondering if any of you know of any peer-reviewed articles or research-based data about the efficacy of glacier glasses for short and long-term optical/eye health. It can't be as simple as...glacier glasses are darker and cover the eye area more = less visible light hitting eye = less UV radiation = lower risk of cell mutation... Alpine Ascents, first hit on Google: "Increased exposure to these UV rays can cause both temporary and permanent damage to our eyes, including photokeratitis (snow blindness), erythropsia, cataracts, and corneal burns. " Is eye cancer not a thing? I thought UV radiation would affect eye cells like skin cells? "According to the World Health Organization, “a thinner atmosphere [at altitude] filters less UV radiation. With every 1000 meters increase in altitude, UV levels increase by 10% to 12%”." (https://www.alpineascents.com/blog/gear/what-are-glacier-glasses/)

I'm curious if you made the trip? I've scrambled Thielsen before (no rope needed) and I don't know much about other routes, except the only non-scramble route on the Summit Post page is 5.7X on "very poor rock"... Which route did you have in mind?

Did Hyperbole Canyon ever see a CC expedition led by @ivan with a flag-planting, slideshow with beers, $20 reward, etc?!?!

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2018/08/black-diamond-tells-walmart-stop-selling-gear/

Awesome! Congrats on it all working out this time and getting up there! That route is definitely in my top 3 of all time climbs I've done. So beautiful....

No cancer? I don't want it, then! Seriously though, do you know how they compare as far as aquatic life? I try to avoid going swimming the same day as putting on DEET, but I wonder about Picardin? And where can I get some sunscreen+bug spray combo??

Trip: Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier Trip Date: 07/22/2018 Trip Report: Bonanza has been on my list for a couple of years, and I was so happy to find two smart, fun, competent human beings that wanted to check it out, too. There are lots of trip reports and beta and route descriptions everywhere, but this was an amazing trip! I want to share photos and inform you that the glacier/bergshrund/moat is still very good to go (or was a few days ago)! One thing that made this climb so great was that our party was three women; for no specific reason, I had only climbed with dudes or mixed parties before. I really enjoyed the fun and collaborative atmosphere of this trip C and I got over to Lake Chelan on Saturday morning and dodged swarms of cyclists from the CHELANMAN. Z showed up just in the nick of time for us to get on the Lady II at Fields Point Landing and head uplake. Met one another party headed for Bonanza, and they informed us of two other parties heading up (!). Well, that number of people was a little unexpected...(we later found out it was just one group of five). Got to Lucerne and got on the Holden bus to get up to Holden Village. What an interesting place! Read about it here: http://www.holdenvillage.org/ Sort of a spiritual commune learning retreat that was bought by the Lutheran church in 1960 (I think) from a copper mining company that had first developed it and shipped a bunch of copper out to Tacoma (!) Hiked out to Holden Lake where Z and I took a refreshing dip (objective #1 complete) and then applied the DEET in good amounts. Getting up from the lake to the talus field below Holden Pass was not too bad, with just a minimal amount of schwacking. Stay between the swampy bits and the alder and trees. The views of the glacier (giant icefall and crevasses) and the waterfall slabs everywhere were amazing.... Holden Pass still has a snow patch (otherwise dry) but there's the creek coming down from part of the glacier you can fill up at right before the Pass. During the night, we heard the 5 people coming down; they approached, climbed, and went back to Holden in the same push They have a TR on NWHikers... We got going around 5:20 AM the next morning. The waterfall slabs were fine, the glacier was in great shape with good snow conditions and a smart bootpack, the snow finger felt fine, the step from the snow to the rock was easy, and about 3 hours from the pass, we were headed up the rock. Geode thing that C found Luckily, the two-person party that had left a bit before us was just coming down as we got to the final stretch before the summit -- I was a little concerned about them rapping above us as we came up. It worked out perfectly! The summit views were incredible, and we hung out for awhile. I especially loved seeing Lyman Lakes and Cloudy Pass, since I had hiked the Spider Gap - Cloudy Pass - Buck Creek Pass loop from the Chiwawa River Road last summer. We did a combination of down climbing and some careful rappelling and then back onto the glacier, where we definitely noticed crevasses and bridges looking different from the morning... We were back to the Pass by around 4, and the mosquitoes were terrible. Z and C set up "the princess fort" which was Z's mosquito netting hung on the rope strung between two trees, it was excellent! Another group showed up, and it was a guided party! We spoke for awhile with the guide, who hadn't climbed Bonanza before, and he left us a very nice note the next morning! I later found out they were successful, too Z left after a semi-alpine start so she could get back in time for a bit of rest before heading off to Goode, but C and I hiked out in the hotter weather, we found a cairn in the talus field below where we had approached from and that made it easier, I ate about 60 thimbleberries , back to Holden, back to Lucerne, I went swimming in Lake Chelan (objective #3 ticked), back to Fields Point Landing..... So great! Gear Notes: 60m rope, light axe Approach Notes: Get a copy of the informative newspaper on the Lady II, go swimming at every opportunity, bring a mosquito net fort, eat thimbleberries

Congrats on your first climbs at Washington Pass! That's an amazing area and I'm excited for the Liberty Bell Conservation Iniative! Not to be the LNT police (or maybe a little), but did you guys end up camping on completely vegetation-free areas? From your photos it looks like backpacks are on grass. I think this area gets more and more use every week and needs extra extra special attention to strict LNT practices. Have fun out there!

Glad you got down the DC safely at that time!! Oh, Dad...

https://www.kxly.com/news/climber-dies-in-fall-at-mt-stuart/758393274 My deepest condolences to the people who knew this person.

Cruxes/Cruces SOLD! Technos still up for grabs!

Happy birthday to her!

Riveting

No climbing talk, this is the spray section!

Do you any of you do anything special for the summer solstice?